Diseases of roses and the appearance of insects on plants significantly affect the general decorative properties of flowers, and in some cases can lead to the complete death of the plant.

Therefore, it is important to know about possible ways to protect roses from pests.

How to deal with caterpillars

Caterpillars more often attack rose bushes growing in the shade. They descend on them from deciduous trees (usually in early spring) and move to the buds, penetrating into the flower.

It is easier for caterpillars to get petals from the bud, and when they eat them, they make the flowers inferior. Where one caterpillar appears, a whole hundred pests of roses will soon form, which are encountered everywhere in the country.

It is quite difficult to deal with the tracks, because they have to be constantly assembled by hand. However, this method cannot lead to success, since new individuals will quickly take the place of the collected ones. So what are the alternative options for dealing with these pests?

If you do not turn to the help of all kinds of chemicals, which are presented in large enough quantities on modern markets, then you can help in the extermination of caterpillars regular mustard, although such processing will harm not only them, but also the rose bush itself.

Did you know? Rose bushes needspraydiluted powderin a proportion of 100 g of mustard per 10 liters of water.

The mustard must be poured with warm water, which will help the solution to be absorbed better. The treated bushes are allowed to settle for two to three hours, it is even better to leave the mixture to act for a day.

You can just scatter mustard near the bush - this should scare away the caterpillars that climb onto the stems from the ground.

Green aphid control methods

Insects on roses suck sap from young shoots and leaves of the plant, which causes it to deform and dry out. They also do not disdain buds.

– a fairly large type of pest, especially in comparison with the rest. These insects are shiny green (in some cases brown) and long black antennae.

In the springtime, larvae appear from overwintered eggs, which eventually turn into wingless females. The next generations are distinguished by already winged individuals, capable of flying to neighboring bushes and forming new colonies there.

Did you know? More than ten generations of green aphids can develop during the year.

The number of this type of pest of roses in the open field usually increases in June, after which they do their "dirty work" until the end of summer. In most cases, aphids settle at the ends of young shoots and in buds, but there is not too much of it on the leaves. Damaged buds can no longer open, and the shoots of the plant are bent.

It is necessary to start treating the bushes from these pests with the appearance of the first larvae, repeating the course of treatment as necessary: ​​after 2-3 weeks until the aphids completely disappear.

For these purposes, such means as "Confidor", "Iskra-M", "Iskra Double Effect", "Zubr" and "Tanrek" are often used. The advantage of these agents is their high level of effectiveness (even in hot weather), systemic mechanism of action and rapid penetration into plant tissues. The preparations are not washed off by rain.

You can also remove the green rose-colored aphids mechanically by shortening damaged shoots or wiping off pests with a damp cloth. Small colonies of aphids are eliminated with soapy water (a grated bar of ordinary soap is diluted in 10 liters of boiling water). As soon as the solution has completely cooled, it is immediately applied to the damaged bush.

Sawfly and leaf cutter bee

- Hymenoptera is a small insect that can completely eat the leaves of a plant, making them transparent in some places.

It also chews on the stem from the inside, which leaves it unnoticed until you break off the darkened and weakened part of the flower.

In the fight against this pest, the removal of damaged leaves and their treatment with special insecticides, as well as spraying the ground under the rose bush, helps well.

Important! Pest larvae can remain in the ground until next year,therefore, it is very important to treat the soil with special means.

- an insect that gnaws small semicircles around the edges of rose leaves.

These actions do not cause much harm, but the spread of nutrients through the bushes deteriorates, the general appearance of flowers deteriorates.

As a preventive measure, you can weed sow thistles, thistles and other asteraceous weeds in the garden, in the stems of which leaf-cutting bees arrange their home. Get rid of insects will help you soap solution. In addition, you can also protect your roses from the effects of a leaf-cutting bee by throwing a protective net over the bushes.

Did you know? Pathogenic microflora of roses numbers up to 270 species.

Types of beetles on roses, and how to eliminate them

The most dangerous species of beetles that are often found on rose bushes are the weevil and bronze.

Weevil (leaf beetle) - it is a fairly large beetle (up to 1 cm), which gnaws at the edges of the leaves of roses. It is black and gray in color and cannot fly.

The most active way of life is at night, and during the day it hides under lumps of soil. Thanks to this mode, you can not even notice these beetles, finding only damaged leaves of flowers.

Not only adult weevils are dangerous for roses, but also its larvae, which are quite impressive in size and light beige in color. They live only in the ground and feed on plant roots.

If a large number of such pests start on your site, the roses may die, because due to severe damage to the leaves, their useful area decreases, and the plant begins to wither.

Important! In most cases, see thesebugs can be on that rose flowerthat grows in the shade of a tree or in dense plantings, where it is deprived of normal air circulation. Besides,bugwillhave rosesonplants,weakened by time and poor agricultural technology.

You can cope with these pests by spraying rose bushes at sunset, choosing for this one of the insecticides popular today. You can also try to collect the appeared beetles manually, but for this you need a flashlight (they come out only at night).

The latter option is more time consuming and will require a good deal of skill from you, but if you do not want to choose the best way to spray roses from pests (it does not matter, in spring or autumn), then this will be a good temporary solution to the problem.

Thrips on roses

In hot and dry weather, you can see on the back of the leaves of roses, a grayish-brown bloom, which gives off a silvery tint. This means that your plants have startedthrips.The leaves damaged by them quickly turn brown and fall off, and the blossoming buds are deformed and covered with spots.

What's more, the sticky black discharge that these pests leave behind is an excellent medium for the development of a sooty fungus. When fighting them, the damaged bush is treated with insecticides, which are absolutely harmless to beneficial insects.

Nutcracker and scoop

Walnut- another insect dangerous for roses, reaching a length of 2-3 mm. It has a black body, compressed from two sides, and a stalked abdomen. If you look inside one of the bulges (it is their gall-makers that form), then you will surely find an insect larva there.

Such bulges can be placed on shoots, flowers and leaves, often reaching 5 cm. In some cases, this leads to the death of the plant.

You can save your roses from such a misfortune with the help of the same pesticides that are used in the fight against other pests, by spraying the plant twice.

Good results are obtained by using the preparation "Lightning" (2 ml of the product is diluted with 10 liters of water).

Important! In parallel with chemical treatment, it is better to carry out mechanical struggle, that is, to cut off and burn the appearing growths.

Scoops -a pest that lives in the ground and feeds only at night. Therefore, most often you can see only traces of his activities.

If there is a lot of damage, then it is better to immediately use drugs for pests (the same insecticides are suitable as against aphids). Depending on the strength of the damage, the bud can give a deformed flower, which means that it is better not to leave it on the plant.

Spider mites on leaves

Among the insects that are pests of roses, it should be distinguished spider mite. Of all the existing insect pests, it is the spider mite that is the most widespread and becomes the cause of the weakening of plants. Affected rose bushes quickly lose their leaves and are more vulnerable to various diseases.

This pest - a rather small insect (no more than 2 mm), which makes it very difficult to detect. Spider mites form entire colonies, the number of which can be more than 100 individuals.

With a small amount of spider mites, you do not need to worry, but you should always take into account the fact that this pest multiplies very quickly, which leads to harmful consequences for plants.

Feeding on deciduous sap, especially when the plant is at the stage of active growth, the insect contributes to the weakening of the rose, and it has to compensate for the loss at the expense of the root system. Young seedlings especially suffer from exhaustion.

Important! You can find the pest on the inside of the leaves of the rose, where a fairly thick cobweb forms, under which small insects run.

If you want to get rid of a spider mite for a long time, then you need to fight it at all stages of its life cycle.

All summer long it is necessary to treat the plants with special chemical compounds, and in the fall, when the cold comes and the insect moves into the fallen leaves, it is necessary to carry out a thorough cleaning and burn the fallen leaves. Thus, you will not only rid yourself of pests, but also destroy the spores of many fungal diseases.

Quite often, small and large holes form on the foliage of roses, which are the consequences of visiting the bushes of pests, as well as the defeat of pathogenic fungi.

Alfalfa Leaf Cutting Bee

Alfalfa leaf cutters, unlike other species, are not social insects, but live alone. Her visit to the rose bushes can be identified with the naked eye by perfectly carved large notches in the leaves. Parts of the foliage that the bee cuts out is required for the construction, arrangement of the nest house. Therefore, the insect uses pieces of leaves not for food, but for construction. By removing the weedy flowering grass that attracts the insect with its aroma from the garden plot, you can get rid of the "pest builder".

Symptoms

The presence of alfalfa leaf cutter on roses can be determined due to:

• cosmetic defect in the form of even holes on the leaves;
• not causing disease, not affecting the vessels of the plant damage to the foliage.

Raspberry weevil

Small up to 4 mm black-gray beetles, which hibernate under fallen leaves in the upper layer of the soil, go hunting in early spring when the daytime air temperature is +10 degrees. The awakening of the pest coincides with the beginning of the growth of young rose leaves, which are immediately perforated by the weevil elephant. Not only adults, but also the larvae that live in the soil and eat up the roots are dangerous for rose bushes.

Females of the weevil elephant lay eggs in the very tissues of the plant, using the stems, leaves and buds. The larva grows, eating the plant from the inside, then pupation occurs. Therefore, with a large number of pests, rose bushes may die.

Symptoms

Examining rose bushes, to detect a pest, you should pay attention to the following signs:

• small puncture holes that weevils make holes with their proboscis when feeding;
• withered pedicels that look like they weren't completely cut with a knife.

Important!

The weevil elephant is especially dangerous for rose bushes growing under the canopy of trees, as well as thickened plantings.

Alenka shaggy

Lamellar beetle dangerous for roses, feeding mainly on flowers and fruits. After wintering in early spring, in early March, the bronzovka flies out to hunt, starting its pest activity on early flowering plants. Alenka's flight falls on the period from March 25 to June 25, at the height of the mass flowering of roses. Shaggy Alenka actively eats pink blossoming buds of mostly light flowers, eating holes of irregular shape in flowers and young leaves. In case of danger, the pest releases a specific liquid, in which phytoplasmas are later colonized.

Symptoms

When attacking the roses of Alenka shaggy, the following symptoms appear:

• the appearance of irregular holes on the petals, young leaves;
• the appearance of deformed buds, inside which several shaggy black beetles will sit.

Driller and sawfly rosanny

Symptoms

Drillers, sawflies are very difficult to see with the naked eye. However, their residence on roses can be determined by the following criteria:

• the appearance of small holes on foliage, plant stems;
• lethargy and discoloration of leaves and buds;
• emptiness in the place of the bend of the stem.

Important!

It is very difficult to distinguish a rosy sawfly from a borer. The only sign that distinguishes them is that when the sawfly attacks, the stems, foliage and buds wither for several days faster than when the borer attacks.

Apple walnut

Symptoms

The characteristic signs of the defeat of roses by nutcrackers are:

• the appearance of specific swelling on the foliage;
• torn foliage disfigured by gallic growths.

Gnawing scoops

The most dangerous pests of ornamental shrubs that eat foliage and buds of plants with great speed are the caterpillars of the scoop. The pest butterflies fly out to hunt only at night, and the offspring conduct their activities to destroy the vegetative mass around the clock. Females lay on the buds and foliage of rose bushes from early May to mid-July. And just 4-6 days after the eggs are laid, voracious caterpillars hatch from them. Due to the large accumulation of larvae, the bushes are bare of foliage in just one week. Weakened due to lack of nutrients, disorders of photosynthesis and die.

Symptoms

When the scoop larvae attack the bushes, the following signs appear:

• irregular holes on all leaves;
• complete exposure of the bushes.

Leaf rollers

Symptoms

• irregular holes on young foliage;
• twisting damaged leaves into straws with the help of a cobweb.

Important!

To prevent the arrival and attack of butterflies, leafworms and scoops, a good way to scare off the pest would be to install jars of kerosene or diesel fuel under the rose bushes.

Treatment

Pest control should be carried out at all stages of the plant's life cycle using chemical remedies and alternative traditional methods.

Chemicals

• Commander;
• Aktara;
• Tanrek;
• Karbofos;
• Bison;
• Spark - Double Effect;
• Lightning;
• Antio;
• Karbofos.

Folk remedies

As a protective measure of pest control without the use of chemicals, alternative methods are used.

Tincture of onion peel with hot pepper

Preparation:

• in a container with a volume of 8 liters, add 500 onion peels, 1 teaspoon of red ground hot pepper, half a piece of laundry soap grated on a grater;
• pour the ingredients with hot water, leave for three days, strain;
• to carry out spraying in the presence of leaf rollers, scoops, borers, sawflies and weevils on the plants once every three days.

Important!

The prepared infusion of onion peels will also help to get rid of other sucking pests of roses such as: aphids, thrips, spider mites.

Infusion of yarrow and tomato tops

Tomato tops contain toxins that have a detrimental effect on many insect pests, and yarrow will strengthen the immunity of roses.

Preparation:

• put 2 kg of fresh yarrow herb and 3 kg of tomato tops in a metal container of 10 liters, add water;
• put the mixture on fire, bring to a boil, set aside for 4 hours;
• after insisting, strain the broth, add 2 caps of dish detergent;
• spray rose bushes from pests every 5-7 days.

Resistant varieties

• Gloria Day;
• Pomponella;
• Music Boxing;
• Aphrodite;
• Alexander Pushkin;
• Leonardo da Vinci;
• Anton Chekhov;
• Pastella;
• Westernland.

Important!

When choosing a rose you like, you should also take into account the climate resistance of plants. So, for example, for the central part of Russia and the former republics of the CIS, reliable northern varieties will be most suitable, with which there are fewer worries when preparing for winter.

Prevention

Rose garden care includes a whole range of preventive measures:

It is imperative to protect garden roses from pests not only in spring, but also throughout the growing season. Rose pests can seriously harm the flower garden, so you need to learn to recognize them, as well as find the best measures to combat them.

Spider mite

This pest is quite dangerous for roses, especially if you are dealing with them. Here the microclimate is so attractive for him that he can develop throughout the year. Spider mites are insects with an oval-shaped reddish body. They settle on the underside of the leaf plate, gradually sucking out the juices from the plant and weakening it.

What to spray roses from pests is with special acaricidal preparations. These include, first of all, "Isofen", "Omite", etc. Interestingly, if the infection of roses with a spider mite is still at an early stage, it can be stopped with cold water - for this, the leaves on the lower side 3- Spray with cold water 4 times a day.

Leaf cutter bee

If the leaves of the rose are in holes, or rather their edges are gnawed out a little, it means that you are dealing with a leaf-cutting bee. There will not be much harm from it, since all it can do is gnaw through small holes on the sheet plate, nothing more.

Of course, any responsible gardener would not like to see the plant's aesthetic appearance deteriorate. In addition, due to the leaf-cutting bee, metabolism can also decrease. You will be able to eliminate the insect with the help of a soapy solution, which is sprayed on the bushes. Also try to clear the substrate from weeds in a timely manner.

Bronze and sawfly

How to treat garden roses from pests, such as bronze and sawfly, is worth finding out in more detail, since there is a lot of harm from them. A shiny green beetle (bronze) most often prefers white or yellow roses. People call it "May beetle", and it would seem that it should not harm the plants. However, it severely damages flowers.

As for sawflies, they actively feed on rose leaves. Some of their species are able to penetrate the shoots, eating them from the inside. It is recommended to fight such a "disease" with the help of special chemicals that can save you from such an invasion in the shortest possible time.

Aphid

These shiny insects can harm both garden roses and those plants that are grown in greenhouses. As a rule, they form their numerous colonies not on foliage, but on young shoots and buds. As a result of their vigorous activity, the shoots of the plant are noticeably bent, and the flowering of roses may never start. The best way to control aphids on roses is to spray the shrubs with chemicals. Among the most popular are "Confidor", "Alatar" and others.

Weevil

How to process garden roses if a weevil has not appeared on them - this is a question that flower growers also have to face. It is a medium-sized beetle of gray-black color, it cannot fly. It feeds on plant leaves, nibbling them along the edges. It is not so easy to notice his invasion of flowers, since he is active at night, and in summer he hides in the ground. This insect eats not only foliage, but also the flowers of the plant. In this case, it is necessary to process green leaves with special insecticides.

Cicadas and nutcrackers

The beetles on your favorite roses can multiply rapidly and harm the plants even more. What the cicada is dangerous is its ability to settle on the lower part of the rose leaves and suck the juice out of them. Soon the leaf plate changes color, becomes covered with a white marble bloom. Nutcracker is no less dangerous for roses. It causes the appearance of special growths on rose bushes - galls.

Thrips

Pests on fragrant roses can bring a lot of troubles to plants. Thrips mainly feed on sap, sucking it out of leaves and shoots. You can find out that the roses were attacked by these insects by the small reddish dots that appeared on the leaves. In addition, the rosebuds do not hold their shape and fade quite quickly.

Video "Rose Pest Control"

In this video, you will learn about common rose pests and how to control them.

How to process

In any case, your key task is to determine what exactly you are dealing with, and then choose the preparations suitable for spraying.

Chemicals

Insecticides or acaricides - these groups of medicinal compounds will help to quickly get rid of pests on roses. Follow the directions to dilute the drug correctly. Do not forget about your personal safety: when working with chemicals, you need to wear a protective suit, as well as wear a respirator or mask.

The plant pests in question are widespread and regularly appear in areas with roses. To a lesser extent, this applies to earwigs, and leaf-cutting bees, although they cause some harm, are also important pollinators, and there is no need to fight them.

Rose pests

Most insects are useful in the garden, or at least take a neutral stance. Individual insect pests of plants are easy to spot, such as the Japanese beetle, but the most serious enemies are usually barely visible: rose borer, thrips, spider mites.

Aphids

Aphids, very small winged insects, prefer the soft young growth that usually appears on roses in spring. These green (sometimes red, pink, or white) insects suck the juices from the shoots of roses.

A massive outbreak of aphids, which often occurs on dry compacted soils and in too dry hot weather, leads to severe deformation of roses.

Aphids produce a sticky substance called honeydew, a favorite treat for ants. For his sake, ants arrange real farms with aphids. If the rows of ants move up and down along the shoots and stems of roses, then aphids have started up on the bush. You need to know that leaf aphids are capable of carrying viral plant diseases.

Aphids are very gentle creatures, so it's easy without insecticides. Good results are obtained by spraying aphids with a strong stream of cold water from a hose (do not forget about the delicate side of the leaves). If you water clusters of insects in this way for five days, they will practically disappear. The most terrible enemies of aphids are ladybugs that eat it.

Roses are threatened by two types of borers. Two-spotted lumberjack takes root in young juicy shoots at the base of a rose bush, which makes them wither and die. It is impossible to protect yourself from such a pest - you will have to urgently cut and destroy the damaged shoot. Together with him, the larvae of this insect will die, which will exclude a new invasion. Penetrating into the stem, the drillers move down, which means that the stem should be cut shorter.

The rose-colored borer makes a stroke in mature stems at the places where they are cut. The stem in which this pest has wound up slows down growth and withers. Many growers never encounter this pest, while others are constantly annoyed by it. To block the driller's path, it is recommended to lubricate the cuts with glue or sealant. If there are a lot of roses, this procedure will greatly slow down. Probably, it is necessary to seal the sections only when the pest is massively spread. When using glue, it is helpful to add food coloring to the glue to make the treated areas more visible.

Soft-bodied earwigs, medium-sized insects, climb into rose flowers at night, and in the morning gnaw their way out. In the heat, they usually hide in cool flowers during the day. Earwigs are especially annoying for gardeners using a drip irrigation system. Earwigs look for coolness in droppers and clog them.

Songbirds feed on earwigs: if they fly around rose bushes, then the plants are under reliable protection. Take care of creation.

Earwigs are rarely a serious enough threat to resort to chemicals. However, if necessary, such funds are applied to the soil where the egg clutches are located.

Nutcrackers most often infect the delicate pink Rosa eglanteria and its many adorable offspring such as Eglantyne.

Probably, harmful insects are attracted by the fragrant foliage of these varieties. When a gallstone stings the stem of a rose, it forms a gall nut-like outgrowth about 2.5 cm in diameter, green or brown, covered with mossy projections. The formed galls do not cause serious harm to the plant, but they do not add beauty.

Caterpillars

Caterpillars can attack roses growing even in a small shade. Descending in the spring from deciduous trees, they slowly but surely head to the rosebuds and penetrate inside. There, the caterpillar eats the petals, and the blossoming flower turns out to be defective. In addition, where one caterpillar appeared, there will soon be a whole hundred. not easy. They have to be collected by hand all the time.

Beaters appear after the season of once-blooming antique roses ends, and mostly disappear before re-blooming roses appear in all their glory amid the autumn coolness. Some beetles are found even in October, but with the first real frost they come to an end.

You can collect Japanese beetles at any time of the day, but best of all - at dawn and dusk, when they are at rest, or after rain, when insects are heavy with moisture. You will need a bowl of soapy water, where it is convenient to put the beetles.

Killing crumpets with contact action pesticides is not rational. How many beetles will be destroyed in this way today, the same number will appear on roses tomorrow. are also ineffective, since roses are more attractive to them.

It is recommended to protect especially promising specimens of roses during the season of activity of the beetles by covering the flowers with caps made of thin material, for example, a seedling cover. To protect the buds, wax paper bags are suitable. They are spacious enough for the buds to open a third when they are.

Leaf cutter bee is a pest with a "taste". She gnaws perfectly round holes in the leaves of the rose, using this material to decorate her nest. Since the bee does not swallow pieces of foliage, it is pointless to use systemic insecticides against it. The leaf cutter bee nests in wood, soil or tubular garden furniture and is a minor problem. Many gardeners do not pay attention to leaf cutters at all. These insects are also important pollinators. When given a choice, leaf cutter bees prefer the glossy leaves of modern varieties rather than the matte foliage of most vintage garden roses.

As a result, the infected rose looks stunted, it shows signs of mineral deficiency further after abundant feeding. Roses infected with nematodes have a poorly developed root system, since parts of the roots die off. Above the damaged roots, ineffective root beards are formed.

Nematodes do not tolerate harsh winters, therefore, they represent a real problem only for the southern regions. Roses grown on Fortuniana rootstock are resistant to nematodes.

These dull gray beetles are slightly larger than Japanese beetles. Bronzovka feeds on the foliage and flowers of roses, but does not disdain the foliage of many other plants, for example, stock-rose (mallow). These beetles are very slow, therefore, when they eat leaves and flowers, they are easy to catch and crush. Bronze can be collected in a jar of soapy water, like a Japanese beetle.

The enlarged images of these long proboscis insects are intimidating. In fact, the size of the weevil is only 6 mm. He gnaws deep holes in the buds of roses, and as a result, they do not bloom. Small numbers of beetles must be collected. Mass infestations of these flower beetles are rare, and contact insecticides such as feverfew and insecticidal soap are effective against them. The rose weevil is more of a concern in gardens where different varieties of roses grow. Its larvae hibernate in the fruits of roses, and, therefore, it is necessary to pick off wilted flowers if weevils are bred in the garden.

A tiny rosacea mosquito cannot be seen with the naked eye until traces of its harmful life activity become noticeable in the garden. The microscopic size of a mosquito is essentially a fly larva that damages the buds at the stage of their formation. As a result of a powerful invasion of such pests, all roses can be left without flowers, although otherwise they continue to grow and look healthy. Upon closer examination, it seems that the tender young shoots, which should have been crowned with buds, are as if burned by a blowtorch. The same traces, reminiscent of a burn, appear on lateral shoots that do not form flowers. Unfortunately, by the time the damage caused by the larvae is discovered, they have already managed to fall to the ground, pupate and produce offspring. It is important to prevent this process, for which the soil should be abundantly saturated with chemicals.

At first, the rose gnat was found in greenhouses, and its first foci were noted a hundred years ago. Since then, it has left the greenhouses, and the territory of its distribution has significantly expanded and continues to increase, although in some areas its appearance is of a focal nature.

So far, no one has managed to find the natural enemy of the rose gnat or invent a method of dealing with it that would not harm the environment. Sometimes it is recommended to use diatomaceous earth against these pests, but the effect is negligible.

Microscopic larvae easily move over sharp particles without any harm to themselves. After World War II, rose growers have been successful in combating the rose gnat with hazardous chemicals that are currently banned. Of the funds issued to date, none is as effective. Organic advocates call for covering rose beds with plastic wrap. Theoretically, this decision is correct, but in practice the flowerbed looks uninteresting, and the roses will have to be completely transferred to liquid nutrition.

Some remontant hybrids and other roses with particularly long sepals, such as the Elegant Design by Ralph Moore, show resistance to the rosacea mosquito. Their structure does not allow the larvae to reach the developing bud. The creator of Knock Out roses, William Radler, says that he is actively working to develop rose mosquito resistance in roses.

An unwanted insect pest can easily be brought into the garden through the infested. Of course, there are many reasons why potted roses end up with dead shoot tips: insufficient watering, heat stress and mineral deficiencies. But if roses in pots do not have flowers and buds, then, most likely, the culprit is the rose mosquito.

The mosquito multiplies quickly in manure mulch, so it is best to discard it if you have had problems in the past. Granular larvae, such as bark mulch, are ineffective.

This pest gnaws at the foliage of roses, leaving only the veins. If the larvae are not taken seriously, they will expose the entire plant. They especially liked climbing roses. The larvae feed at night, and the growers have no choice but to collect insects with a lantern, removing them from the back of the leaves.

Usually sawfly larvae appear in one place in the garden, so they can be dealt with with vigorous actions. They hibernate in the garbage, which means that the more carefully the garden is groomed, the fewer larvae there should be.

The oblong beetles penetrate the shoots of roses, which, as a result, swell greatly, and sometimes even break. If found infected shoots should be immediately cut and burned. Narrow-bodied goldfish prefers Rosa hugonis, and is also found on other species and ancient roses. On modern varieties, it has not yet been noticed.

Ticks live and nest on the back of the leaf, from which they feed on juices. Their invasion starts from the ground: first you can see dry leaves at the bottom of the bush, and the upper leaves are dotted with dots. In the future, the infected leaf turns yellow or turns brown. On the back of the leaf, grains appear like grains of sand. In a magnifying glass it is easy to see how these "grains" scurry across the sheet.

Ticks are clearly visible if you shake them off a rose leaf onto white paper, where they look like ground black pepper. Like other arachnids, mites weave webs. By the time it becomes distinguishable, the infection has already spread widely enough, and the rose bushes will be in great danger.

To eliminate the spider mite, it is recommended to create unfavorable conditions for it, for example, to carry out small-drop sprinkling with cold water. There are special chemicals - acaricides. However, mites lay eggs during the day, and most acaricides are ineffective against eggs. As a preventive measure, lean shoots should be cut out at the very base, as well as shoots that thicken the bush. Many rose growers spend after the first wave of flowering to remove weak growth.

The leafworm lays eggs in the fall under the bark of trees, a layer of leaves, old stumps. In early spring, larvae appear from them - caterpillars with a green-brown color. There are about 200 eggs in one clutch, so the scale of the infestation of the flower bed is very significant.

On a note!

Leafworm larvae go through several stages of development, the whole one lasts about 2 months. The threat of infestation of flowers appears in early spring, the peak of sabotage occurs in May-June. By the middle of summer, the caterpillars pupate, after a while they turn into butterflies.

There are different ways. On the market there are chemicals of a wide spectrum of action that easily destroy the larvae, resist re-infection. It is recommended to spray roses from aphids and caterpillars in dry weather early in the morning or in the evening.

• Nitrofen. To get rid of caterpillars on roses at the initial stage of their infection, to prevent significant damage to plants, in early spring, the culture is sprayed with a solution of Nitrofen. The fungicide effectively destroys the larvae at the initial stage of their development, protects the plant from repeated attack for about 60 days. One treatment is enough to ensure the crop has excellent flowering throughout the season. In 10 liters of cold water, dilute 300 ml of the drug. Roses should be sprayed with a watering can, spray bottle or spray bottle.
• Aktara. Broad spectrum insecticide. You can get rid of caterpillars on roses in just one treatment. The drug of systemic action penetrates into the leaf plate, the poison is not washed off by rain, does not lose its effectiveness at high temperatures. Poisonous properties are present for about 30 days. This is quite enough to save the entire flower bed from aphids and caterpillars. Dilute the drug in warm water. 10 l of liquid requires 8 g of the drug. It is allowed to re-process roses from a leaf roller in a month, if necessary.
• Actellic. Professional chemical agent for the destruction of garden and indoor pests. The plant is allowed to be sprayed during any growing season. To prevent infection, roses should be treated in May, early June. Poisonous properties persist for about a month. The maximum effect is observed during the first 2 hours, when the pests receive a dose of poison by contact, they die in a few minutes. Further poisoning of caterpillars occurs during feeding. To prepare a solution in 2 liters of cold water, dissolve 2 ml of the drug.

You can fight green caterpillars on roses with the help of biological preparations. The active components gradually disrupt the life processes in the body of caterpillars, kill within 10 days. It is necessary to spray the plant twice a month, while there is a threat of infection.

On a note!

You can treat roses from aphids and caterpillars with such preparations as Intavir, Iskra bio, Fitoverm.

Folk remedies

If caterpillars eat a rose, you need to act quickly. A large colony of pests can destroy a flower bed in a few months. It is possible to process roses from caterpillars with folk remedies during any period of the plant's growing season.

• Mustard powder. Sprinkle the paths in the flower bed, and also use mustard to prepare the solution. Add powder, a little laundry soap to the water. Spray the leaves. Properties persist for several days in dry weather. If pests are found again, repeat spraying every 3 days.
• Ash. The fight against black caterpillars on roses is not complete without wood ash. The same remedy saves flowers from aphids, leafworm larvae and many other pests. Ashes are sprinkled on the soil in the flowerbed, watered abundantly. The active components penetrate into the plant sap, making it bitter, unattractive to caterpillars. A solution with the addition of laundry soap, ash is sprayed on the leaves. The agent irritates the skin of the larvae, forcing them to leave the plant.
• Sagebrush. The poisonous plant not only scares off the larvae with a persistent smell, but also leads to death. 1 kg of wormwood is poured into 3 liters of water, boiled over low heat for 20 minutes. Let it brew for at least 2 hours. Spray the bush, water the soil.

You need to systematically fight caterpillars with folk remedies. With a strong infection of the flower bed, once will not be enough. Folk wrestling methods are the same for vegetables, shrubs and trees. , plum or roses are the same.

To reduce the number of larvae, they are collected by hand. Scared away with a solution of table vinegar, ammonia, boric acid, tobacco, garlic tincture, ordinary soapy water with the addition of salt, baking soda. You can get rid of pests with live plants by planting calendula, marigolds, peppermint nearby.