Description of growing tomatoes in open ground includes a large layer of various techniques, methods and techniques. They depend on the type and variety of tomatoes, the methods of planting and growing them, and the purpose of harvesting. At the same time, along with the traditional ones, they are currently used innovative technologies agricultural technology of tomatoes. We will help the gardener understand this abundance of information.

Description of the plant

There is hardly a person who does not know what a tomato is, so we will briefly describe this plant. Tomato or tomato (both names in Russian are equal) is annual or perennial herbaceous plant, a species of the genus Solanum of the Solanaceae family. It is cultivated as a vegetable crop. Due to the popularity of this culture in the world, many of its varieties have been bred, and in the State Register of Russia their number exceeds the number of varieties of any of the registered plants. Tomatoes are grouped according to various criteria:

• By type of growth:
  • determinant, that is, those whose growth is limited by the formation at the top of the flower brush;
  • indeterminate - the growth of such bushes is not limited and, in the presence of favorable conditions, lasts up to 10-11 months (in heated greenhouses).
• By ripening time:
  • early maturing;
  • mid-season;
  • late.
• By appointment:
  • canteens;
  • for conservation;
  • for juices, ketchups and pastes;
  • for drying.
• By color:
  • red;
  • pink;
  • yellow;
  • green;
  • black, etc.

Photo gallery: tomatoes of various colors

The fruits of red tomatoes are most often found in our country. The fruits of pink tomatoes are more often for salad purposes. The fruits of yellow tomatoes look decorative. Green-fruited tomatoes are produced by exotic lovers. The fruits of black-fruited tomatoes look very original.

Planting tomatoes

There are two main ways to plant tomatoes.

Seedling method

In the overwhelming majority of cases, the seedling method is used for planting tomatoes. For this, adult bushes (seedlings) with five to six true leaves and a developed root system are preliminarily grown from seeds, and only then they are transplanted into the ground to a permanent place.

In the overwhelming majority of cases, the seedling method is used for planting tomatoes.

Growing seedlings

Let's briefly describe the process of growing seedlings:

1. Seed preparation (this is a desirable step, but can be dispensed with):
   1. Calibration, i.e. rejection of empty and deformed seeds.
   2. Disinfection in order to prevent possible diseases, the causative agents of which may be in the seeds.
   3. Soaking and germination.
   4. Hardening.
2. Sowing. It is carried out in previously prepared containers filled with a nutrient mixture (containers, boxes, glasses, pots, etc.)
3. Care:
   • watering;
   • loosening;
   • top dressing;
   • supplementary lighting;
   • processing.

You can read more about growing tomato seedlings.

Transfer to the ground

Ready seedlings at the age of 50-70 days (depending on the variety) are planted in the ground when the average daily temperatures of + 13-15 ° C are reached. This is preceded by soil preparation, which is usually done in the fall. Since tomatoes love loose and well-fertilized soil, then:

• for digging (plowing), organic fertilizers (humus, compost) are applied at a rate of 5-10 kg / m 2;
• at the same time, if necessary, loosening, bring in peat, sand, rotted sawdust, etc.;
• in case of excessive acidity of the soil, dolomite flour or slaked lime (300-500 g / m 2) is added.

On the prepared bed, holes are dug in accordance with the planting scheme, into which seedlings are planted, deepening it to the cotyledon leaves. The scheme, as a rule, is used as a tape two- or three-line with a distance between rows of 40-70 cm and an interval between plants in a row from 25 to 70 cm.The number of rows and intervals is chosen depending on the specific variety and the chosen method of formation - the taller it is and the more stems are formed, the greater the intervals. Low-growing tomatoes can be planted in three rows at minimum intervals.

The planting scheme for tomatoes depends on the height of the bushes of a particular variety.

Seed planting in open ground

In this way, tomatoes are sometimes grown in southern regions with a favorable climate. In this case, the seeds are sown on pre-prepared beds in the holes, located according to the usual scheme for the variety. In each one. the hole is laid in several seeds, since not all of them can sprout. After the emergence of shoots, leave 1–2 in each well, and the rest are removed. To provide good conditions germination (heat, humidity), the holes for the first time are often covered with plastic bottles with a cut-off bottom, which are removed after small bushes grow and weather conditions allow. Further care is carried out according to the usual rules.

To ensure good germination conditions (heat, humidity), the wells are often covered with plastic bottles with a cut bottom for the first time.

Outdoor tomato care

In general, tomatoes do not belong to too whimsical crops, but in order to obtain the yields declared by the seed manufacturer, they need to create certain conditions and provide care.

Growing conditions

It is not difficult to create favorable conditions for tomatoes, you just need to choose a suitable place for them.

Illumination

Tomatoes love good light; in the shade, ripening of fruits slows down significantly. Therefore, the place for the garden should be chosen open, sunny, and the rows of plants should preferably be oriented from north to south. For the same reason, it is important to observe the optimal planting patterns, avoiding thickening, as well as to carry out timely garters and pruning. At the same time, good ventilation of the plants is achieved, which helps to avoid dampness, leading to the occurrence of fungal diseases.

The place for the tomato beds should be chosen open, sunny, and the rows of plants should, if possible, be oriented from north to south

Temperature

The optimum temperature for tomato development is between 18-25 ° C. When the temperature drops below +15 ° C, the pollen does not mature, and when the temperature is above +32 ° C, it dries up and becomes sterile. Therefore, in cold regions, at first after planting, it is necessary to cover the beds with a film or covering material in arcs, and in some areas such shelters remain for the entire growing season. It is clear that only low-growing tomatoes can be grown in this way. In hot regions, shading nets are used to protect plants from the scorching heat.

In hot regions, shading nets are used to protect plants from the scorching heat.

Moisture and looseness of the soil

Tomatoes are drought-resistant crops, but they need a lot of moisture to get high yields. Since the roots of these plants are located deeply, the drying of the surface layer of the soil to a depth of 5-7 cm is not dangerous for them. The main thing is to loosen it regularly to ensure unhindered access of air to the root zone. But if the soil dries out to a great depth, then this is bad - the fruits may not have enough moisture and therefore it is important to ensure correct and regular watering.

Watering

At the initial stage, immediately after planting the seedlings in the ground, they refrain from watering for two to four weeks, depending on weather conditions and the condition of the plants. This is necessary so that the roots of tomatoes, in search of moisture, grow well in depth and width. After that, watering is carried out regularly and abundantly, but not too often. In dry weather, the interval of 3-5 days is observed, and in rainy weather - according to the circumstances. To facilitate this procedure, you can mount a drip irrigation system, the use of which allows you to reduce the number of irrigation and loosening, to reduce the growth of weeds.

To facilitate the irrigation procedure, you can mount a drip irrigation system

How to do drip irrigation with your own hands

It can be organized directly from the water supply using a pressure reducer, but it is better to purchase a storage tank. There are two reasons for this:

• tomatoes love warm water and, pre-filled in a container, it will heat up in the sun;
• if necessary, watering can be combined with dressing by adding soluble fertilizers to the water.

To install the system, you will need to purchase the necessary components:

• container for water;
• pump (if the water supply is carried out by gravity, then it is not needed);
• filter;
• controller to control (optional);
• special fittings:
  • cranes;
  • tees;
  • corners;
  • plugs, etc.
• main pipes or hoses for supplying water to the beds;
• drip tape.

After that, all that remains is to assemble the system. At the same time, if it is supposed to supply water by gravity, the preliminary storage tank will have to be raised to a height of 1-2 m. The assembly of the system is easy to carry out, guided by the diagram. When laying out the drip tape in the beds, it must be placed with outlets upward.

Using the scheme, it is not difficult to independently assemble a drip irrigation system

Watering tomatoes through tubes

Economy and creative approach distinguish gardeners and gardeners in our country. It was possible to reduce the cost of the drip irrigation system and make it more durable using medical droppers. To do this, instead of a drip tape, the service life of which is short and is 2-3 years (there are more durable ones, but they are much more expensive), plastic water pipes with a diameter of 15-20 mm are used (depending on the length of the beds). Then they do this:

This drip irrigation option is specially designed for particularly hot and arid regions. It differs in that irrigation water is supplied directly to the roots through underground drip hoses or pipes.

Underground irrigation delivers water directly to plant roots

Along with some advantages (mainly water saving due to the absence of evaporation), the method has many disadvantages:

• high cost of components;
• labor intensity and cost of installation;
• difficulty in service;
• clogging of outlets;
• penetration of roots into pipes;
• damage to pipes by rodents, etc.

For these reasons, the system has not yet found wide distribution in Russia and we will not dwell on it in detail.

Is it possible to grow tomatoes without watering

In arid and hot regions, growing tomatoes without watering is unlikely to succeed. But in the middle lane and some other areas where summer rains are not uncommon, this is quite possible. The fact is that tomatoes have a fairly extensive root system, which reaches one - one and a half meters deep and up to 2.5 m in diameter, due to which they can independently find moisture in the lower layers of the soil. Therefore, in such areas, they may well do without watering, which may be needed only in cases where the interval between rains exceeds a month and the weather is hot, dry. In this case, it is necessary to periodically loosen the soil, providing air flow to the roots, as well as mulch the beds.

Mulching the soil prevents it from drying out

Mulching

This term is called the agrotechnical method of covering the soil with mulch to protect it and improve its properties. Mulch has a beneficial effect on soil and plants:

• retains water in the soil;
• reduces the amount of weeds;
• prevents overheating of the soil;
• Helps prevent pathogens from splashing from soil to plants during watering and rain;
• prevents crust formation, which improves water absorption into the soil and ensures its air permeability;
• keeps the soil loose;
• mulched plants form more adventitious roots.

Various organic and inorganic materials are used as mulch:

• humus;
• peat;
• straw;
• agrotextile;
• black foil, etc.

Tomato mulching is started after planting seedlings in the ground. Periodically, the mulching layer is removed or raked away to control the condition of the soil (sometimes it still needs to be loosened), and also check for the presence of pests - slugs, scoop larvae, and beetles like to settle in warm, damp places. If found, they should be destroyed, and in some cases - during mass invasions - you even have to abandon mulching.

Top dressing

Nutrition for tomatoes is laid in the soil when preparing the beds. During the growing season, additional fertilizing is added. For the first time, this is done two 2-4 weeks after planting seedlings in the ground simultaneously with the first watering. In this case, nitrogen-containing fertilizers will be needed, as which, you can use a solution of urea at a concentration of 10-20 g / 10 l, ammonium nitrate - 20-30 g / 10 l, or organic infusions of mullein, chicken droppings, green grass.

An excellent organic fertilizer can be obtained by steeping ordinary green grass in water.

Nitrogen is needed for the rapid build-up of green mass and stem growth. In the future, the amount of nitrogen is reduced (with its excess, the plants fatten to the detriment of fruiting), and potassium and phosphorus are introduced into the diet, which are necessary for the growth and ripening of fruits. The most effective fertilizer for this is considered to be potassium monophosphate, which is applied in the form of a solution (10-20 g / 10 l). The consumption rate of all working solutions is 10 l / m 2. The frequency of top dressing is 1 time in 2-3 weeks, while nitrogen and potassium-phosphorus are alternated. It is also useful to use foliar feeding with complex mineral fertilizers, guided by the instructions on the package. You can read more about dressing in the following.

Pruning tomatoes

Most varieties of tomatoes form shoots that grow from the axils of the leaves, which are called stepchildren. They thicken the bushes, divert nutrients to themselves, suppressing the formation of ovaries and fruits. Therefore, stepchildren need to be removed regularly (with an interval of 5-7 days) by pinching or trimming. This process is called pinching. When removing stepchildren, you need to leave small (1-1.5 cm) hemp, otherwise the shoots may grow in the same place again. You do not need to do this only when growing the so-called non-scintillating varieties (about them will be below). The result is a single stem with leaves and flower clusters on which fruits are formed.

When removing stepchildren, you need to leave small (1-1.5 cm) hemp, otherwise the shoots can grow in the same place again

If the root system of a tomato is well developed and the plants are properly cared for, then they can withstand more than one stem. In practice, bushes are often formed into two and three stems. To do this, leave a shoot growing from the axil of the leaf located under the first flower brush, and, if necessary, another one below the first. These shoots form additional stems. In this case, stepchildren formed on additional stems are also subject to regular removal.

Tall tomatoes form in 1-3 stalks

After the fruits of the first cluster ripen, the leaves located under it should be gradually removed (no more than 1-2 at a time), since they have already fulfilled their role, and their removal will provide ventilation of the bushes and release food resources for new fruits.

All operations related to pruning - pinching, removing leaves, shaping - should be carried out in the early morning of a dry and sunny day, so that the cut sites have time to wither and drag on until the evening.

Garter

Tall and some undersized (in which many large fruits are formed) tomatoes should be regularly tied to specially equipped supports. They can be trellises of various designs, cords hanging from the transverse beams, or simply stakes or poles installed next to the bushes. Usually this procedure is combined with pinching. When tying the stems and brushes to the trellis or stakes, you should use elastic materials (ribbons, twine, etc.), which are tied in the form of a "figure eight" without crushing the plants.

Trellis can be used as supports for tall tomatoes

In the case of hanging cords, the stems are simply wrapped around them as they grow, and this is done clockwise following the top of the stem, which turns during the day after the sun.

Video: how to tie tomatoes

Caring for tomatoes during flowering

During this period, potassium-phosphorus fertilizing is continued according to the schedule, and in addition, it is useful to carry out foliar treatment with a solution of boric acid, dissolving it with water at a concentration of 1 g / l. The boron contained in it contributes to an increase in the number of formed ovaries, which, in turn, leads to an increase in yield.

Graft

it effective method creating strong seedlings. The most popular is the method of ablating or grafting seedlings by proximity. It allows you to combine several plants into one strong bush, thanks to which its yield will increase significantly. This is done as follows:

1. 4–5 tomato seeds are sown in glasses with nutrient soil in due time.
2. After the seedlings appear, the two best are chosen, and the rest are pinched or cut off at the soil level.
3. A month before planting seedlings in the ground, when the stems have reached a diameter of 4–5 mm, they start grafting:
   
4. After the end of the operation, glasses with seedlings are placed in a shaded room for 4–5 days, after which they are returned to their permanent place.
5. After two weeks, the stems will grow together and at this time the top of the rootstock is cut off above the grafting site.

   Grafting tomato seedlings by ablating allows you to get a plant with a double root system

As a result, plants with a double root system are obtained, which are planted in the ground and grown according to the usual rules.

This is a popular question and there are many answers and recommendations to it. Here is some of them:

Video: how to speed up the ripening of tomatoes

Features of growing various types of tomatoes

In a huge variety of varieties, there are separate groups, united by common characteristics that distinguish them from the general mass.

How to grow ampelous tomatoes

Not every hobbyist has a piece of land, but anyone can grow tomatoes right at home. For this, special varieties have been bred, adapted to growing in a limited amount of land - pots, buckets, tubs, etc. Such tomatoes are called ampelous. Here is a list of the most popular varieties:

• Ampel tiger;
• Cascade Red F1;
• Citizen F1;
• Garden pearl;
• Mascot;
• Balcony miracle;
• Red abundance, etc.

Ampel varieties have a number of advantages:

• shade tolerance;
• there is no tendency to stretch;
• are not afraid of drafts;
• have excellent taste.

Planting and growing methods for these tomatoes are the same as for other varieties. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the agricultural technology of potted crops - timely and moderate watering is important (the use of drainage is mandatory), top dressing every two weeks, transplanting in a container larger volume if necessary. These procedures are familiar to plant lovers and are not unusual.

Growing ampelous tomatoes at home is available to anyone who has come across the cultivation of indoor plants

Video: how to grow tomatoes on a windowsill

How to grow unsaturated tomatoes

Tomato varieties that do not need pinching (information about this is indicated on the seed bags), as a rule, are short and ripen in the early and middle periods. All of them have a determinant type of growth, many have standard bushes that do not need a garter. They are distinguished by amicable ripening of fruits, their harvest is collected in a short time. Ideal for growing in fields (but can also be grown in a greenhouse). Such tomatoes are unpretentious, do not require excessive attention to themselves, they can be safely left unattended for 1-2 weeks (well, if only there is no extreme heat). More on such tomatoes as follows.

How to grow double-stemmed tomatoes

When they talk about double-stemmed tomatoes, they usually mean tall varieties that form into 2 stems. The method for such a formation has been described above. The agricultural technology of such bushes does not differ from single-barreled ones, the only difference is that when tying, the stems need to be somewhat removed from each other so that thickening is not created. For the same reason, when planting, it is worth slightly increasing the spacing between plants. Tomatoes are grown in a similar way and in three stems.

Video: the formation of a tomato in two stems

Growing methods of tomatoes

As with any popular crop, amateur gardeners have come up with more than one alternative way to grow tomatoes. Let's briefly list the main ones:

• on high (including warm) beds;
• under a film cover;
• in a barrel;
• in bags;
• in buckets;
• upside down.

Photo gallery: popular ways to grow tomatoes

In cold regions, tomatoes are often grown in warm beds Above a warm bed, it is easy to install a film shelter From a tomato bush grown in a barrel, an increased yield is harvested When growing in bags, the roots of tomatoes receive more heat Tomatoes grown in buckets can be moved around the site An exotic way of growing tomatoes roots up is gaining popularity

These methods are described in detail.

How tomato reproduces

There are several ways to reproduce tomatoes.

Seeds

The main way of reproduction of tomatoes is by seeds. There is a huge industry around the world for the development of new varieties and the production of tomato seeds. All other methods of propagation are used only in exceptional cases, for example, when it is impossible to purchase seeds of the desired variety or their high cost (relevant for rare varieties). This method is implemented in two versions - seedling and seedless - which have already been described above.

Cuttings

This interesting way used for reproduction hybrid varieties, since in this case varietal characteristics will be preserved. It consists in the following:

Tops and stepchildren

As it became clear from the previous section, parts of tomato stems, placed in a humid environment, quickly take root. Using this property, you can get an additional amount of seedlings, especially in cases where it has overgrown. There is a so-called Chinese (some call it Japanese) method of growing seedlings. It consists in the fact that the elongated seedlings are cut into two parts. The lower part remains in a pot with a pair of true leaves and, emerging from the axils of one of them, the stepson forms a new stem. And the top is placed with the lower end in a wet substrate or simply in water, where the stem is overgrown with roots and the result is a new seedling bush. Similarly, you can root and stepchildren.

The tops of the tomatoes are rooted in water, and stepchildren appear from the sinuses of the uterine part of the bush

Diseases and pests

The list of diseases and pests that can appear on a tomato is quite wide. Here we will only list the most common representatives and give general recommendations on prevention. The main group of tomato diseases is fungal. Among them:

• late blight;
• blackleg;
• powdery mildew;
• top rot;
• brown olive spot (cladosporium);
• brown rot;
• gray rot, etc.

For the fight against fungal diseases and their prevention, there is a whole group of special drugs called fungicides. They can be both chemical and biological. The latter are safer for humans, they are used at the stage of fruit ripening. As a preventive measure against diseases, the following conditions must be met:

• do not allow thickening of the landings;
• carry out pruning in a timely manner in order to improve ventilation and illumination;
• disinfect seeds before sowing;
• do not overmoisten the soil and do not create waterlogging;
• regularly (at intervals of 2-3 weeks) treat plants with biological fungicides, for example, Fitosporin.

The number of possible pests of tomatoes is not so great, but they can bring no less harm, and sometimes much more. The most dangerous insects:

• garden scoop;
• Colorado beetle;
• slug;
• aphids, etc.

To combat them, chemical and biological preparations of the insecticide group are used, as well as numerous folk remedies.

Photo gallery: signs of some diseases and pests of tomatoes

Late blight is a dangerous disease of tomatoes. Black leg often affects seedlings. When affected by brown rot, brown spots appear near the stalk. Gray rot often appears during the rainy season
Powdery mildew on tomato leaves appears in cool weather Cladosporium infects tomato leaves Tomato fruits are prone to apical rot with a lack of moisture Moth caterpillars gnaw round holes in tomato fruits Colorado potato beetle larvae feed on leaves of nightshade crops Aphids on tomatoes can be carried by ants Slugs feed juicy fruits tomato

Harvesting and storage

Depending on the purpose of further use of the fruits, they can be harvested in varying degrees of ripeness, given that unripe tomatoes can be ripened during storage.

Table: the degree of ripeness of tomatoes, depending on the purpose of use

A novice gardener should take a closer look and study all the methods of tomato agricultural technology. But they should be used with caution in practice. To begin with, it is better to master the old proven methods and techniques that do not require large expenditures for the acquisition of a variety of technical innovations. And after some experience has been gained, you can gradually introduce more advanced technologies.

Tomato is a fruiting plant that belongs to the nightshade family. Mainly grown as an annual plant, although in warmer regions it is a perennial species. Grows in open ground, in greenhouses, can bear fruit on pallets and balconies.

They are widely used in cooking, medicine, and the cosmetic industry. Agriculture constantly produces new varieties of tomatoes, improving to increase yields and disease resistance. The type of fruit is a berry. The homeland of the plant is South America, wild species are still found there. Today it is the most popular product due to its dietary and nutritional properties, as well as its huge variety of varieties.

In cooking, tomatoes are added to meat and fish dishes, used in conservation, used as a seasoning, in the food industry they produce tomato juice... Tomatoes are prized for their medicinal qualities, they contain a sufficient amount of vitamins and minerals.

In practice, there are several effective ways growing this crop:

• Open ground. The tomato is a rather capricious vegetable. This is a thermophilic plant, it needs good illumination, does not tolerate excess moisture and wind. To achieve high yields in the open field, you must observe simple rules: choose a decent, high-quality variety, suitable for this particular region; provide a sunny, non-shading landing site; provide proper care and timely watering.
• Indoor ground, greenhouse. The technological process of growing in a greenhouse has its own characteristics. A humid and warm climate promotes the development and reproduction of pathogenic microflora. For prevention, you need to control the humidity and produce ventilation, alternate the cultivation of different crops in the same area.
• Upside down. This can be accomplished by placing the seedlings in pots or buckets and turning them upside down. Suitable for greenhouse production. This method saves space and comes to the rescue if it is impossible to plant in the ground due to infertile soil.

How to choose seeds

The future harvest depends directly on the quality of the proposed planting material. Breeders distinguish two varieties for growing vegetables:

• determinate - with limited growing times. Plants reach a certain size, they are suitable for planting in protected ground;
• indeterminate - culture is resistant to fluctuations temperature regime, the tops are not limited to the growth of the entire growing season.

When choosing varieties of tomatoes, one should decide for what culinary purposes the future harvest is intended. Based on this, you should choose a seed classification:

• salad varieties,
• for conservation,
• universal varieties,
• for long-term storage.

For most gardeners important role plays the yield. There are several rules for choosing seeds:

• you should not buy seeds from unverified sellers in the market trade;
• choose a supplier with a good reputation, check the expiration date of seeds, proper storage, availability of certified goods;
• observe the climatic norms of the offered product.

The mass of 1000 seeds will be 2.8-3.3 g, the germination rate is 95-85%, the number of plants per 10 m 2 is 40-55 pieces, the seeding rate for open ground is 2-3 g per 10 m 2, the number of seeds per seedling per 10 m 2 will be 0.4-0.5 g.

Seed preparation and seedling growing

Preparation for growing seedlings should be started 55-60 days before planting in open ground.

Sort the seeds, put the whole seeds in salted water for 5 minutes and select those that have sunk to the bottom. After they are soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes. You can harden the swollen seeds: place in the refrigerator for 1-2 days. The final stage of preparation: spread the seeds on a damp cloth for germination in a warm place, avoid contact between each other. For 2 or 3 days, they should sprout.

For seedlings, you need to create optimal growth conditions:

• a lot of light. If there is a lack, artificial lighting with a lamp will be required;
• optimum humidity. Spray the sprouts 1-2 times a day, you can use a humidifier;
• warmly. The favorable temperature for tomato growth is 18-25 degrees during the day, and 12-15 degrees at night.

Before you start sowing, you should disinfect the soil, there are several ways:

• bake in the oven at 180 ° C for 15 minutes;
• warm up in the microwave for 3 minutes at a power of 850 W;
• pour boiling water over in a drainage pot;
• pour with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

After these procedures, leave the soil for 10-12 days at room temperature.

For seedlings, you can use: plastic cups, shallow boxes, boxes of groceries, special cassettes, peat pots. Make 1 cm deep grooves in the soil, place the seeds at a distance of 1-2 cm from each other, the width between the furrows is 3-4 cm.

Cover the grooves with soil. Tighten the top with foil or cover with glass. It is necessary to check the moisture content of the soil every day, if there is a lack of it, spray it abundantly, if there is an excess, open it. 2-3 weeks after planting, the seedlings require feeding with special fertilizers on a weekly basis.

Sowing in open ground

To sow seeds in open ground, you must first soak them in water for several days. You need to sow in warm and fertilized soil.

It is advisable to prepare a section of soil for spring planting in the fall by fertilizing it with wood ash or compost. With the onset of spring, after the snow melts, the site is covered with a film for warming up. If this is not possible, dig holes and fill them with purchased or forest soil. The planting depth should be no more than 5 cm, pour superphosphate into each recess and pour plenty of water. It is allowed to sow up to 6 seeds in one hole, the interval between groups should be 15 cm.

Benefits of open ground for planting seeds:

• the plants are stronger, they are distinguished by persistent immunity;
• seedlings do not tolerate excess moisture, a favorable atmosphere is guaranteed in open areas;
• the risk of dangerous diseases of the nightshade is reduced.

Transplanting

It is better to plant seedlings on a cloudy day, after having watered abundantly, overnight the plant will get stronger and better tolerate too hot the sun. Dig holes on the bayonet of a shovel, put fertilizer in the form of compost, or wood ash and pour well with water. Carefully remove the sprout and insert into the groove. Press firmly and sprinkle with water.

Watering

Tomatoes need intensive watering during the period of active growth. Moisture should not get on the leaves when watering, it is better to use a watering can without a strainer pouring under the root. Liquid, getting on the crown of tomatoes, can cause illness and burns. Tap water or well water may be too cold to water. Better water warm up at outside temperature, in dark containers.

Underground irrigation is favorable, it is organized by digging in plastic bottles neck into the ground, you need to cut off the bottom. Such a system does not allow moisture to rise, and ensures the escape of water heated in the sun. If the weather conditions are not hot and without rain, watering is carried out 1-2 times a week. Moisturizing is best done in the morning.

Care during growth

Caring for young plants is primarily to protect against the threat of frost, which usually occurs in late spring or early June.

You can protect the seedlings by covering them with a film. During the beginning of flowering, small bumps form on the lower part of the shoot, they need to be covered with soil - this improves the fertility of the tomatoes.

For high-quality development, frequent feeding is required, they are carried out:

• after disembarking seedlings, two weeks later;
• after the second flower brush appears;
• the third brush will bloom;
• during the fruiting period.

It is necessary to use such fertilizers as: Kemira Universal, Effekton, Agricola, nitroammofosk. Dosage and watering should be done strictly in the attached instructions.

You can also use mullein infusion for feeding: about five buckets of water are poured into the barrel, a bucket of cow dung and 400 g of wood ash are added. Such a solution should ferment for two weeks, stir daily. When watering, it is diluted 1: 2 in the ratio of manure and water.

Some tomato varieties require a support and are usually tied up.

Plants of medium height need to remove all stepchildren up to the first brush. In the middle of summer, pinch the top.

What pests and diseases are scary

It is not easy to get the desired high quality yield. Many types of diseases and pests can overshadow the damage to all efforts of the gardener.

Plants can be exposed to such infections and viruses, the most common are:

• late blight,
• mosaic,
• brown leaf spot,
• fomoz (brown rot),
• blackleg,
• cladosporium disease,
• top rot,
• powdery mildew.

Do not mind spoiling vegetables and some pests:

• dart or wireworm,
• Khrushch,
• bear,
• whitefly,
• spider mite,
• scoops.

When to harvest

Harvesting is carried out depending on the purpose of use: for immediate use or for long-term storage. Harvesting of fruits begins with the onset of milk ripeness and the achievement of size, depending on the variety.

In the very ripening season, vegetables are chosen every 2-3 days, at the beginning of ripening - once every 5 days.

Where and how to store

Foreign researchers have found that tomatoes are not only better preserved at 20 degrees, but also improve their taste. And if they were placed in a temperature regime of no higher than 4 degrees, they began to collapse.

It is not enough to grow and harvest fragrant tomatoes, you still want to keep them for as long as possible. The most favorable temperature for storing a milk-ripened tomato is 8-10 degrees, red tomatoes are better preserved at 4-6 degrees, but brown, the most cold-resistant, for them 0-2 degrees is enough.

When sending tomatoes for storage, you should take into account the temperature and humidity. In an apartment, long-term preservation of the harvest is possible on the balcony or in the bathroom; the harvest must be hidden from light. In the private sector, a basement or garage is suitable for these purposes. Do not forget to inspect and remove damaged fruits.

The room in which the crop is stored should be dark, ventilated, without foreign odors. Laying can be done in boxes of 2-3 layers. To preserve useful and taste qualities, the temperature regime is observed: for green ones - 8-12 degrees, for slightly reddened 4-6 degrees, and for ripe 1-2 degrees. The permissible maximum temperature does not exceed 18 degrees. It is required to control humidity, an overabundance or lack of it is fraught with loss of yield.

You can treat vegetables with a non-concentrated gelatin solution or wax. After this procedure, the vegetables are dried and they are stored longer.

Also, ripe tomatoes can be extended storage by placing them in jars and filling them mustard powder... The ripe crop is well stored in paper bags, cardboard boxes.

Tomatoes are often grown in a greenhouse or greenhouse. However, caressed by the sun and rain, they give more tasty and healthy fruits. But to get them, you need to clearly know how to grow tomatoes outdoors... This task is within the power of any gardener.

Tomato seeds came to Russia from Europe thanks to the scientist Andrei Bolotov. Initially, the plant was considered poisonous. One of the reasons was the short summer in the country, and the tomatoes did not have time to ripen. Bolotov found how to "deceive" nature by resorting to the seedling method. At the end of March, he sowed seeds in flower pots, and by the end of summer he was harvesting. Everyone, from gardeners to large agricultural enterprises, use his technique to this day.

Seed selection

The success of growing tomatoes depends on how correctly the variety is chosen. Preference is given to early and mid-season species.

Table 1. Comparative characteristics of low-growing and tall varieties of tomatoes.

Variety name	Ripening period, minimum days	Bush height, cm	Productivity from 1 bush or m2
Low-growing varieties
Gina (Dutch selection)	110	50-60	3-4 kg
	58	50	3-4 kg
	85	50	6.5 kg / m2
Tall varieties
Barmaley	100	200	16 kg / m2
wild Rose	100	200	7 kg / m2
Cardinal	110	150	7 kg / m2
Tarasenko-2	110	200	up to 20 kg

Experienced gardeners are advised to grow tall bushes, as they save space and give more yield. So, up to 10 fruit brushes are formed on one stem. In addition, on low-growing varieties, fruits ripen at the same time, and tall ones can bear fruit until autumn.

You can find out more about early varieties of tomatoes for growing in the open field by reading a specialized one on our portal.

Tomato seed prices

tomato seeds

Seed preparation for sowing

To begin with, the seeds are prepared for sowing. The most productive specimens are selected by immersing them in a saline solution (1 teaspoon of salt per 200 ml of water). Those that are on the surface are thrown away. The rest are warmed up. The seed is placed in bags and placed on the battery for 2-3 days.

To reduce the chance of infection, do etchant... For this, the seeds are immersed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes or for 8 minutes in 3% hydrogen peroxide at t = 40 ° C.

Increases the germination and yield of tomatoes by treating seeds in nutrient solutions - for example, Epine, potassium humate or potato juice, agave... After such treatment, you do not need to wash the seeds.

Since tomatoes are thermophilic, the procedure is useful hardening... The hatched seeds are placed in the refrigerator for 12 hours, and for the day they are brought into a room with a temperature of 20 ° C.

Prices for potassium permanganate

potassium permanganate

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The substrate for vegetables is bought in a store or prepared independently, mixing sod and humus soil in equal parts. If the friability is insufficient, it is increased with peat and sawdust.

You can learn more about preparing the soil for growing tomato seedlings by reading on our website.

Sowing is done in mid-March. They make a depression 1 cm, put the seeds and sprinkle with earth. The box is covered with a film, which is periodically removed. The container is left at a temperature of 25 ° C.

The sprouts appear in a week. The containers are placed in a well-lit place at a temperature of about 20 ° C during the day and 15 ° C at night. Daylight hours should be at least 12 hours. The first 5 days you need round-the-clock supplementary lighting. Seedlings are not watered until the first leaf appears. If the soil is very dry, it is sprayed with water from a sprayer. Then watering is increased up to 2 times a week.

You can find out more about growing tomato seedlings by reading on our portal.

Seedling picking

Tomato seedlings are planted in separate pots when two true leaves have appeared on the sprouts. Sometimes this process is postponed until 4–6 leaves grow back.

For 1-2 days, the seedlings are watered abundantly. The soil is taken the same as for sowing seeds. You can add to it superphosphate, vermicompost, potassium sulfate.

Potassium sulfate prices

potassium sulfate

Hardening of seedlings

Quenching is carried out at a temperature of 10 ... 12 ° C. The plant is exposed in a well-lit area, but shaded from direct sunlight.

Attention! The hardening place must be protected from drafts, otherwise the seedlings will die.

Choosing a place for a tomato garden

The area for tomatoes should be sunny, no drafts. The garden bed is not planned in the lowlands, since high humidity is harmful to the plant. The yield largely depends on what crops were previously grown in the garden. It is advisable not to plant seedlings in areas where nightshades were previously grown. If there are old roots of eggplant or potatoes in the ground, then there is a high probability of finding pathogens and pests of tomatoes in it.

Attention! You cannot make tomato beds in the same place for several years in a row.

The best predecessors of tomatoes are:

• beans, peas, soybeans and other legumes;
• beets, carrots, radishes, radishes.

Next to the tomato is a good idea to provide a bed of strawberries.

Beets are a healthy neighbor and precursor to tomatoes

Sowing seeds in open ground

Some varieties of tomatoes are grown in a seedless way, sowing seeds directly into open ground. In particular, this applies to the variety Alpha... Seeding conditions should be specified on the seed manufacturer's packaging.

Transferring seedlings to open ground

The soil for planting tomatoes is prepared in the fall. The land is cleared of debris, dug up. Wood ash, compost, fertilizers are introduced. Two weeks before planting the seedlings, the area is watered with boiling water and covered with foil. Seedlings are planted in open ground in late May or early June, when the probability of frost return has disappeared and the night temperature does not drop below 15 ° C. Seedlings are watered several hours before moving to facilitate extraction.

The holes are dug along the depth of the pot at a distance of 40 cm from each other. A distance of 60 cm is left between the rows, for tall ones - 70 cm. It is advisable to place the bushes in a checkerboard pattern.

Add to each hole humus, ash, other mineral mixtures... When the probability of frost disappears, mulching is carried out. For tomatoes, use rotten mulch from straw-manure mixture, leaves, compost... Of inorganic mulch types, preference is given to red or black plastic wrap, roofing material... However, it is better not to use the latter type of coating in the heat, in other cases - to periodically remove it to prevent overheating of the soil.

How to care

Proper care of plants involves timely watering, pruning bushes, feeding.

Watering

Tomatoes are not a very moisture-loving plant. However, without high-quality and regular watering, you will not be able to get a good harvest.

Watering is carried out as the soil dries up, but do not allow it to dry out. The soil should be moistened 35 cm deep. In drought, the plots are watered 1-2 times a week with 5 liters of water under one bush, if there is precipitation - less often. Especially carefully it is necessary to monitor the soil moisture when the ovary has appeared. With overdried soil, it falls off.

Most preferred underground or drip irrigation ... This reduces the likelihood of apical rot. As a preventive measure, you can add ash to the water - 2-3 pinches per bucket. Sprinkle the soil around the bush with the same product. With root watering, the stream is always directed to the root, trying not to erode the soil.

Attention! As soon as a crust appears around the bush, it is broken by loosening. If mulch is used, this will reduce the frequency of loosening.

When watering, you must follow the following rules:

• do not use hard tap water, rainwater is ideal for this;
• watering in the evening, a few hours before sunset;
• preheat the water;
• when the ovary forms, the frequency of watering is increased.

The water is softened by settling or adding wood ash - 30 grams per bucket.

The frequency and amount of watering during the ripening period depends on which variety of tomato is grown. So, undersized bushes need less moisture after they begin to ripen, after a while watering is completely stopped. This prevents the tomatoes from cracking.

Tall species are distinguished by the fact that there are ripe and unripe fruits on the bush at the same time. These bushes are watered every 4 days, adding up to 10 liters of water under each.

Weeding and loosening

Loosening and weeding of bushes is carried out simultaneously with watering. With the drip irrigation method, this procedure is carried out more often, since there is no control over the state of the soil. Loosening increases the flow of oxygen to the roots of the plant.

Attention! If the earth crust is not removed, then the root system will cease.

Garter plants

• the stem receives support, thanks to which it does not break when fruiting begins;
• the vertical position allows access to the sun's rays;
• rainfall will not damage the culture;
• the bush is easier to spray and carry out other care procedures;
• watering is simplified;
• the risk of fruit damage by rodents and slugs is reduced.

The support is substituted 2-3 weeks after transplanting. During the season, the stems are strengthened at least 3 times. For a garter, take a string or cloth cut into strips. Natural materials do not use, as they can rot under the influence of moisture and the sun, and also become a colony for fungal infections and mold.

Attention! Wire is not used for this purpose. It can damage the stem and thereby lead to the death of the bush.

The stakes should be higher than the bush itself. They are deepened into the ground 25–30 cm at a distance of 10 cm from the root part of the stem. The garter is carried out fairly freely. Instead of stakes, you can use cages, trellises, trellises, caps.

Video - Tomatoes in the open field on a trellis

Fertilizing tomatoes

Tomatoes are fed several times during the season.

Table 2. Timing and sequence of fertilizing tomatoes.

The sequence of feeding	Fertilizer, quantity and composition based on 10 liters of water	Fertilizer consumption	When
The first	Liquid mullein - 500 ml, nitrophoska - 1 tablespoon	500 ml under a bush	On the 8th day after disembarkation of seedlings
The second	Chicken droppings - 500 grams, superphosphate - 1 tablespoon, potassium sulfate - 1 teaspoon	1,000 ml per bush	The second brush has bloomed
The third	Liquid humate of potassium or sodium, nitrophoska - 1 tablespoon	5 l / m2	The third brush has bloomed
Fourth	Superphosphate - 1 tablespoon	10 l / m2	Fruit set has begun
The fifth	Sifted ash - 1 500 grams, iodine - 10 ml, boric acid - 10 grams, or complete mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions)	1,000 ml per bush	For the formation of a large number of fruits

Attention! Boric acid is first dissolved in boiling water, and only then is it poured into a bucket of cold water.

In addition, they conduct foliar (by leaves) top dressing during flowering. To do this, prepare a mixture:

• superphosphate - 5 grams;
• hot water - 10 liters.

Fertilizer is added to water and mixed several times. The solution is insisted for 24 hours, filtered. 10 ml of solution is spent on a young bush, 15 ml on an adult. The leaves are also treated with a fertilizer solution Ideal(1 tablespoon in 10 liters of water) or urea(the same proportion).

Superphosphate prices

superphosphate

Tomato pickling

On the bushes, especially with abundant feeding, additional shoots are formed from the leaf axils, which are called stepchildren. Leaves, flower buds, and fruits also develop on them. But they thicken the bush, reduce yields and slow down ripening, and can cause the development of fungal infections.

Stepsons are formed after the beginning of flowering, and are located at the base of the flower cluster, under the first is the most powerful of them. The stepsons below are removed. Subsequent pruning depends on whether the variety is determinant or indeterminate.

You can find out more about the differences between these varieties of tomatoes from each other by reading the specialized one on our portal.

Reference. There are varieties that do not require pinching at all. In particular, these include Cio Cio San, Rocket, Fighter other.

The excess processes are pinched off by hand or cut off with a knife. The tool is washed with potassium permanganate after each formed bush to avoid transmission of infection. The stepsons are removed every week. Pruning is done in the morning, in dry weather. Under such conditions, the cut is quickly tightened, and the infection does not have time to get inside the trunk. If the circumcision is carried out in cloudy weather, then each "stump" is sprinkled with wood ash for disinfection.

Video - How to remove stepchildren from tomatoes

Why don't tomatoes turn red outdoors?

This happens for several reasons:

• strong thickening;
• low air temperatures;
• lack or excess of sunlight.

Obstructing factors must be removed to aid maturation. In the first half of August, you can use a film covering over the garden to protect the plant from cold dew. On low-growing bushes, spacers are installed to direct the leaves towards the sun.

To accelerate ripening, the foliage is sprayed with a solution iodine(40 drops per 10 liters of water), feeding and watering are suspended for a while.

Pinching the tip is an effective method. The lower leaves are removed to the shoots on which the fruits ripen. With such a problem, on undersized and medium-sized varieties, only 5 brushes with inflorescences are left, the rest are removed.

The following methods also help:

1. tightening copper wire rings on the stem;
2. cutting the stem with a sharp knife at a height of 8–10 cm, chips are inserted into the incisions, which do not allow overgrowing of the cracks.

Diseases of tomatoes

Many modern tomato varieties are resistant to common infections. However, the likelihood of their development is not excluded. Let's consider some of them:

Table 3. Diseases of tomatoes and how to treat them.

Name of the disease	Symptoms	Risk factors	Treatment, drugs

Tomatoes are a perennial plant, but in our country it is grown as an annual. To obtain a bountiful harvest of tomatoes in the open field, it is important not to be mistaken with the choice of a variety and to create optimal conditions for the culture. We will find out what agrotechnical methods are used when growing these juicy and bright fruits in the open field.

Choosing quality seedlings

You can buy ready-made seedlings on the market or. In any case, for planting, it is necessary to choose only those seedlings that have a well-formed root system and a strong stem that has reached a height of 20 cm.

It is important that 8-9 full-fledged leaves are formed on each shoot. If they have a rich and uniform green color, this is a sure sign of a healthy seedling. Spotting or pallor of the greenery indicates that the conditions for growing seedlings have been violated or it is affected by some kind of disease.

If the seedlings will be grown independently, it is necessary to observe the correct temperature regime for each stage of development and the timing of seeding.

Preparing the soil for tomatoes

Tomatoes are light-loving plants, but they do not tolerate direct sunlight well. An ideal place for them is a garden bed shaded by a nearby greenhouse or fruit tree. It is desirable that there are no drafts in the area.

It is recommended to plant seedlings in the place where cucumbers, onions or carrots grew last year. If potatoes were previously planted on the site, there is a risk of infection different kinds diseases such as late blight. It is very important to properly prepare the ground beforehand.

Before planting, you need to enrich the soil with fertilizers and bring the acidity back to normal. If this is not done, even with timely feeding, the tomatoes will wither and hurt. In specialized stores, you can purchase a special test that will help you independently determine the pH of the soil. For tomatoes, the ideal range is 6 to 7.

• In the fall, the soil is dug up, all plant residues are removed.
• Fertilizers are applied to the depth of the shovel bayonet - superphosphate, potassium salt or compost, humus, peat, bird droppings.
• Rye or white mustard is sown on the beds, it can be replaced with other siderates.
• To activate the beneficial microflora, it is recommended to spill a humic solution on the soil.

You should not add manure to the soil, because tomatoes are very fond of it, and as a result, all the power will go to building up only green mass. The tops of the plant will begin to curl up in a ring, but the yield will be small. If there have been frosts, it is recommended to cover the soil with any black material around mid-May.

It is necessary to form beds for seedlings about a week before the expected disembarkation. The depth of the holes should be at least 20 cm.It is recommended to water the soil with a solution in a few weeks copper sulfate... A solution is prepared in the following proportions - 1 tbsp is taken for 10 liters of water. l. This simple procedure will help disinfect the soil.

Planting seedlings in open ground

For planting in open ground, only well-seasoned seedlings can be used, otherwise most of the seedlings will be lost. A sharp change in weather conditions leads to a delay in the growth of seedlings. Depending on the climate of the region, the timing of planting young plants is also adjusted. It is important to remember that tomato seedlings cannot tolerate too low temperatures at night or frosts.

The optimal time for planting seedlings in open ground is May. If the temperature drops, it is worth using agrotechnical fabric or special structures with a film to protect young plants.

After the site with the soil is completely prepared for planting plants (the soil is dug up and leveled), you can proceed directly to planting seedlings. It is best to do this in the early morning, before the sun is hot. Holes for seedlings are dug, between which a small distance is made, depending on the selected plant variety.

If the tomato bushes are tall, the best option would be to make a distance of about 60 cm, for a small crop - about 40 cm.If the tomatoes are planted in several rows, it is recommended to place the plants in a checkerboard pattern, so that it will be possible to save space. A distance is left between the rows, which also depends on the variety - from 40 to 70 cm.

After not very deep holes are formed, it is imperative to disinfect the soil. For this purpose, potassium permanganate dissolves in water, the resulting composition should have a light pink tint. The wells are abundantly watered with a solution, after which you can perform additional watering of the soil clean water... It is important that the soil is well moistened before planting. After planting, the seedlings are not recommended to be watered for several days.

Planting tomatoes in open ground: step-by-step instruction

The process of planting tomato seedlings in open ground is very simple, it is enough to adhere to the following recommendations:

• Planting is carried out only after the frosts have passed, and the above-zero temperature will last for a week. It could be early May or June.
• The area should be sunny and well-ventilated, but free from drafts. An excellent choice would be the southeast, southwest or southern part of the site.
• After the first flower cluster appears on the seedlings, it can be planted in open ground. At least 6 fully formed leaves should appear on the seedlings.
• It is recommended to plant tomato seedlings at the age of 50-60 days, but this figure may vary depending on the type of plant chosen.
• Pre-prepared holes are watered - no more than a liter of water per hole.
• You need to wait until the water is completely absorbed into the soil.
• If, by the time of planting, the seedlings are too stretched out, several lower leaves are cut off.
• After the pruning procedure, the seedlings are transplanted into the deep soil, the adventitious roots located on the lower part of the stem provide additional nutrition to the tomatoes. Strongly elongated seedlings are placed obliquely, necessarily deepened to half the stem.
• Standard seedlings are placed in the hole in an upright position and buried down to the cotyledonous leaves.
• The holes are watered again, and a small layer of dry earth is poured on top.

It is not recommended to plant seedlings where there are plants that can harm them, for example, fennel, squash or potatoes. The growth of tomatoes is positively influenced by the proximity to onions, basil, bird cherry and celery.

Seedling care

Correct and timely care of seedlings helps to achieve good fruiting. To develop a strong root system and provide the plant with the necessary amount of oxygen, it is recommended to loosen the beds every 2-3 weeks - the tool is immersed in the soil to a depth of at least 8-10 cm.If the soil is dense enough, this procedure should be carried out more often.

Loosening is often combined with weeding, because weeds can provoke a real invasion of pests. Grass retains moisture in the soil, which creates excellent conditions for development various diseases... A heavily thickened bed is poorly ventilated.

Watering and feeding

Watering should be carried out directly under the root of the plant, do not water the greens. If you choose from existing irrigation systems, it is best to opt for spot irrigation. The use of sprinkling can lead to shedding of inflorescences, provoking blanching of the fruits.

After planting, do not water the seedlings too often. It will be quite enough to perform water procedures several times a week. Care must be taken so that the soil does not dry out.

Consider the following tips when watering your tomatoes:

• Over-watering is harmful.
• Use room temperature water for watering.
• When watering, try not to get on the trunk and leaves of plants, otherwise this can lead to burns.
• Watering tomatoes is necessary in the evening, the only exceptions are hot sunny days.
• Before hilling, during the flowering of the first and second brush, it is imperative to water the plant.

• The first time feeding is performed 15 days after transplanting seedlings into open ground. For this, nutritional infusions of bird droppings or mullein, to which a little wood ash is added, can be used. At this time, the bushes begin to pick up buds, so fertilization will have a positive effect on the process of forming fruit ovaries.
• Second feeding carried out 10 days after the second brush blossoms on the bushes. An organic infusion is used with the addition of a complex mineral fertilizer in the following proportions - 1 tbsp is taken per bucket. l. If the tomatoes are tall, add 1.5-2 liters of infusion, for undersized ones - no more than 1 liter.
• Third feeding should be carried out during the first ripening of the tomatoes. The same nutrient composition is used, but in this case its volume changes - 500 ml of solution is poured under each bush.
• Last dressing performed 15 days after the third. The ideal option would be to use the industrial fertilizer Agricola-3, into which superphosphate is introduced - for each sq. m 4 l solution.

Read more about feeding tomato seedlings.

Stealing

The formation of side shoots or stepchildren must be carried out as the tomato bushes grow. They simply do not have time to ripen, while simultaneously drawing out a large amount of nutrients. Therefore, they need to be removed early in the development of the bushes.

Each plant leaves 2-3 main shoots. By the time the fruit begins to ripen, there should be no stepsons on the bushes. Lateral shoots are removed, the length of which is 3-5 cm. They need to be broken out or pinched off at a distance of about 1 cm from the main stem. Work carefully during the procedure so that no large wounds are left on the plant. It is advisable to perform pinching in the morning.

Tying tomatoes

Tall varieties need additional tying. This prevents the plants from falling to the ground and makes harvesting easier. The tying procedure itself is very simple:

1. A peg is placed next to each plant that will be tied.
2. You can dig strong stakes along the edges of the row, then pull a cord or twine between them.
3. Twine is considered an excellent material for garters, as well as synthetic thick threads. The main advantage is that they do not rot.
4. You can use metal or wooden stakes.
5. Tying plants to a peg or wire should not be very tight.
6. To strengthen the stems, a net, lattice or a twig cap can be used.

Pollination

Tomatoes are self-pollinating plants that deal with this issue easily. Insects - bumblebees and bees - are of great help in the pollination process. To attract them to the site, you can plant such fragrant honey plants as mint, rapeseed, lemon balm, coriander, mustard, basil.

In some cases, artificial pollination is required:

1. Each bush is shaken a little.
2. You can just tap the blooming brush, but not too hard.
3. This procedure is carried out in the morning.
4. After pollination is complete, you need to spray or water the tomatoes with warm water so that it flows over the flowers.

Diseases and pests of tomatoes, control methods

There are quite a few pests that can harm tomatoes, the most common of which are:

• Medvedka- an insect that settles on well-fertilized and moist soils. To combat it, strong insecticidal preparations are used, including infusions of vinegar and red pepper.
• Wireworms- these are larvae, which are covered with a dense shell, damage the root system of the plant. For prevention, during autumn preparation site, alkalinization of acidic soils is performed.
• Gnawing scoops- these caterpillars are considered the most dangerous enemy of vegetable crops. For prevention, it is recommended to carry out deep mechanical soil cultivation and timely weeding. If the caterpillars are in a large number appeared on tomatoes, they must be collected and destroyed by hand.

Medvedka - a pest of tomatoes

Wireworm: These larvae damage the root system

Gnawing scoops - dangerous caterpillars

Tomatoes can be affected by the Colorado potato beetle, thrips, spider mites, whiteflies, and melon aphids. To combat these types of pests, it is worth using insecticidal preparations.

It is recommended to carry out preventive spraying of tomatoes every 5-7 days with alternate application of onion infusion and Bordeaux liquid. If the plant has been affected by a dangerous infection, serious treatment is required.

Tomatoes are often subject to diseases such as apical rot, mosaic, late blight, blight spotting, anthracnose, phomosis, etc. In this case, it is necessary to treat the plants with special potent fungicides, and the affected parts of the plant must be removed.

Under the condition of a strong defeat of tomatoes, complete destruction of the planting is required. To minimize the likelihood of re-development of the infection, before the new season, the soil must be treated with disinfectants, for example, it is watered with a solution of copper sulfate, a hot solution of potassium permanganate, and deep digging is performed.

The main mistakes when growing tomatoes

To protect the crop from large losses, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the mistakes that inexperienced gardeners often make:

• Violation of the timing of planting seeds or seedlings.
• The use of tomato varieties that are intended for cultivation in a greenhouse.
• Acquisition of seedlings with inflorescences, as there is a violation of the formation of ovaries.
• Too abundant and frequent watering leads to rotting of the root system.
• Excessive fertilization.
• Transplanting ahead of time in open ground - violation of the temperature regime negatively affects the formation of ovaries.

Harvesting

The harvest season begins in the middle of summer. Since the ripening occurs unevenly, the fruits must be harvested every day. You need to pick tomatoes without stalks. You should not wait until the fruits are fully ripe, because in indoor conditions they reach ripeness perfectly.

To speed up the ripening process, you can place the tomatoes in a well-lit and ventilated area. To delay ripening, it is recommended to place the fruits in a cool and dark place.

Let's watch a video on how to grow tomatoes outdoors. What kind of feeding should be, and how to understand what elements the plant lacks, how to pinch tomatoes, and how to significantly increase the future harvest:

0

Publications: 149

Tricks of growing tomatoes in open ground from A to Z. Do you want to know how to make "living water" for watering tomatoes or how to harden not only seedlings, but also fruits (!) At the end of the season for better keeping quality? Read this wonderful material by T.S.Morkovina, expert of the Russian Agricultural Center of the Voronezh Region

Tomatoes or tomatoes are the most common vegetable crop in the world.

Depending on the region, they are planted either immediately with seeds in the ground, or with seedlings. Since in our area (Voronezh region) spring is accompanied by frosts on the soil, a large amount of precipitation, and summer is not rich in favorable days for the growth and development of tomatoes, it is possible to get ripe red fruits by August not only with good seedlings, but also with proper planting in the ground and leaving.

How to choose a place for a tomato garden and prepare the soil?

An ideal place for growing tomatoes in the open field are sheltered from the wind, well-lit and warmed up areas in the south.

The predecessors for tomatoes are: pumpkin, cabbage, legumes, as well as root crops and onions. The plot after growing nightshade crops (peppers, eggplants, potatoes) can be allocated for tomatoes only after 3 years.

Tomato is a culture less demanding on soil fertility than others vegetable crops... Its feature is the ability to deplete the soil as a result of increased removal from it nutrients(especially with high yields).

Therefore, compost or humus is introduced into marginal soils in the fall (4-6 kg per 1 m2).

With the annual application of organic fertilizers, it is permissible to grow a tomato in one place for 2-3 years (unless the tomatoes of the previous year were sick with late blight or other diseases).

Nevertheless, it is better to return them to the same place not earlier than after 3 years. You also need to fertilize just before planting the tomatoes.

This is done a week before planting, 1 glass of wood ash is introduced per 1 square meter. After that, the ground must be disinfected. For this purpose, abundant watering of the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, or copper sulfate in the amount of 1 tbsp. l. for 10 liters of water. For 1 m², 1-1.5 liters of solution are consumed.

If the site is not fertile enough and organic fertilizers were not given for the spring digging, then rotted manure or peat compost can be added to the hole before watering at the rate of 0.5-0.8 kg per plant (a bucket of fertilizers for 8-10 plants).

Before planting seedlings in the ground, prevention of possible diseases should be carried out. To protect against fungal infection in a bucket of water, dilute 1 tbsp. l. copper oxychloride. They are processed several days before the start of planting in a permanent place.

How to plant tomato seedlings correctly

I plant the seedlings in the beds as soon as the soil warms up to the depth of the root system to +9 ° and higher. Tomatoes are planted when there is little sun. For example, you need to wait for a cloudy day or do planting in the afternoon. Such conditions are necessary for the seedlings to take root faster.

For planting seedlings, holes are prepared and spilled with water. In each hole, you can put several pellets from a bear (GROM or Medvetok, for example). Strong tomato seedlings are planted at right angles. Elongated, as well as seedlings of tall varieties - at an angle of 45 °. Wells with plants are covered with soil, slightly compacted and watered.

When planting, an interval of 60-70 cm (between rows) and 30-40 cm (between plants) is observed. The planting density of tomatoes is:

- for indeterminate(tall) varieties and hybrids - 3-4 plants per 1m2;

- for determinant(with limited growth of the main stem) varieties when formed in 1 stem - 6-10 plants per 1m2, when grown in 2-3 stems - 4-6 plants per 1m2.

After planting, each bush is attached to the support.

After that, the tomatoes need to be mulched. Hay or straw is used as mulch. These materials will allow you to keep the moisture necessary for tomatoes for a longer time. Since hay tends to rot like any other plant, this will serve as an additional top dressing for tomatoes.

How to make "living water" for tomato plants

When the planting of tomato seedlings is completed, proper watering should be organized. Tomatoes do not tolerate drought as well as they do not tolerate excess moisture, so they need to provide moderate regular watering.

It is necessary to remember one thing - never use "rain" for watering tomatoes, moisture should not fall on the leaves of the plant at all, and watering is always carried out only at the root.

Tomatoes are less likely to get sick and grow better if you add a little ash to the water for irrigation (a couple of pinches per ten-liter bucket).

They will bear fruit better even if, as soon as the ovaries begin to appear, sprinkle the soil around them with ash (also about a handful per 1 m2).

How to care for tomatoes in summer

Loosening of the soil between the bushes and between the rows must be carried out several times per season - every 10-12 days, in order to destroy the crust formed on the surface.

Simultaneously with loosening the site, the weeds that have appeared are removed.

The first hilling of tomatoes should be carried out 8-12 days after planting the seedlings in the ground, the next day after watering. The second time, tomatoes are watered and hilled two and a half or three weeks after the first.

You need to feed the tomatoes at least three times a season, and even better - do it constantly, every two weeks.

Fertilizers can be used in different ways, the main thing is that there is less nitrogen in them than phosphorus with potassium, for example: 15 g of ammonium nitrate, 50-60 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium chloride per 10 liters.

Weakly leafy and stunted plants need to be made foliar feeding, that is, sprinkle the leaves with the following solution: dilute 1 tablespoon of urea in 10 liters of water.

You can use slurry or manure.

Top dressing is done every 2 weeks. A 100 liter barrel of water requires 1 bucket of manure.

You can use a different composition: 250 g of poultry droppings per 10 liters of water. The prepared mixture is kept for a day and watered with 2-3 liters of each plant. Top dressing begins during flowering and fruit setting.

Of the microfertilizers, they need magnesium and boron most of all: magnesium - constantly, and boron - when they bloom, because with a lack of it, flowers and ovary can crumble.

Do I need to pinch tomatoes

Forming a bush and removing stepchildren are techniques that are needed not by the tomatoes themselves, but by us in order to get more good fruits.

It is necessary to constantly pick up tomatoes, no matter how many stalks they have left. There is, however, one important limitation: during too strong summer heat, it is better to temporarily refrain from breaking off leaves and pinching, because the bushes do not tolerate injuries in such conditions.

But if in the summer there are prolonged rains with a cold snap, it is advisable not only to pinch the tomatoes, but also to remove parts of the shoots and all the lower leaves from them, so that the bushes warm up faster and are better ventilated.

Diseases of tomatoes and protective measures

The most common diseases of tomatoes are: late blight (common and southern), from which tomatoes dry, spots (brown, brown, black and white), rot (white, stem, gray and apical), mosaic, from which tomatoes crumble, verticillosis, tracheomycosis , streak and bacterial cancer.

Control measures are spraying plants with infusion of garlic during the period of fruit setting every two weeks (grind 50-100 g of cloves, leave for a day, dilute with water up to 10 liters), regular treatment of plants with 1% Bordeaux liquid, phytosporin, spraying with 0.3-0.4% calcium chloride helps, and at the first signs of illness - treatment with 10% sodium chloride solution.

How to keep fresh tomatoes for longer

July and August are ripening and harvesting times.

In caring for tomatoes, the main thing is to accelerate the ripening of the set fruits and protect them from decay. It is necessary to continue to remove the newly appearing stepchildren, excess leaves, pinch the tops of all fruit-bearing bushes, remove the flower brushes, on which the fruits no longer have time to form.

It is also not bad during this period (from August 15), in addition to all basic dressings, additionally feed the tomatoes with the following solution: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 teaspoon of urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate or 2 tablespoons of nitrophosphate, spending 0.5 liters of solution per plant.

The period from setting to reddening of fruits in early maturing varieties lasts 40-50 days.

If overripe fruits are left on the plants, then the total yield decreases, and vice versa, if unripe (brown) fruits are regularly harvested, then the total yield increases.

Red fruits can be stored at a temperature of 5 - 10 ° C for 40 - 50 days, while the air humidity should be at least 80%.

It is most advisable to remove all the formed fruits from the brown bushes, i.e. beginning to turn white, and lay them for ripening. This simple technique will speed up the filling of the green fruits remaining on the bush.

Before laying for ripening, the fruits must be warmed up in order to protect them from blackening.

This is done as follows: first, the tomatoes are dipped in hot water (60 - 65 ° C) for 2 minutes, then in cold water, then wiped with a soft cloth, then laid. To speed up the maturation process, it is carried out indoors at a temperature of 18 - 20 ° C. The fruits are placed in small boxes in 2 - 3 layers, removing the pedicels. A little red tomatoes are added to the boxes. They accelerate the ripening process of green fruits by releasing ethylene gas.