Painting of hunting rifle barrels. How to paint your air gun

Every real airsoft fan has seen these cool painted guns. Many fans of this game own one or more of these guns. Newbies walk up on the set and ask "how did you paint your gun?" If you like the latter option and want to paint your airgun at a reasonable price, here are some tips to help you paint your gun.

Steps

Decide which gun you want to paint. Not all airguns look cool painted. For example, the G36, MP5 and other HK series rifles look best in black. Here are a few gun models you might want to paint: M16, M4 models, sniper rifles, and automatic weapon models.

Decide which parts of the gun you want to paint. Various designs of the gun are possible. Models of rifles of the M4 and M16 series should preferably be painted completely, but on sniper rifles and automatic weapons it is better to paint only plastic parts or “rifle devices”.

Decide on the design and colors of your gun.(if you want digital camouflage ... click on the button below the tips) When you are in the store, be sure to buy spray paint and check that every single color you buy is matte. If the paint shines, your gun will not stand out well ...

Get your gun ready. You need to prepare your gun so you don't damage it when you paint. You need to do this when you have already chosen a convenient place for painting. You need to get some masking tape or tape and a lot of newspapers. Newspapers need to be spread on the floor to line up a large enough "table" for the gun, and the room needs to be covered to avoid staining it with excess paint. Then take out some cardboard boxes or other shapes that you can place the gun on when painting.

Lining. After you've laid out a bunch of newspapers and taped them to keep them from fidgeting, take your cardboard box and set it upside down. Make sure the gun is on the box and does not slide out. After that, put on your glasses and get ready to make your gun look pretty!

Remove the gun from the cardboard box and bring more tape, newspapers, paper towels, and paper: you will need them.

Insert the plug into the barrel. Take the paper and roll it into a roller (about 5 cm long). Check that the curled roller is thick enough, about 4 mm. Slide this roller into the barrel of your shotgun (make sure the shotgun does not have batteries, clips or round bullets. Also, be sure to remove the belt, scope and any parts of the shotgun that can be removed without removing the bolts). If the paper sticks out of the barrel, make sure it doesn't fall out. Next, take a paper towel and place it over the magazine opening. At this point, stick the tape on top. Now close all other holes in your gun (for example, the window for the exit of spent cartridges in the M4). Try to glue it neatly, because anything that will be glued will not be painted. Therefore, so that you don't have random streaks without paint, you only need to plug the holes.

Cover the parts of the gun that you do not want to paint completely with paper towels (do not leave holes in them) and masking tape. Do not use any other type of tape as this could damage the gun.

Place your shotgun back on the cardboard box and lay out whatever you need to paint next to it. Take the lightest color you will use (tan) and, holding the can down or down at an angle, 20 cm away from the gun, spray the paint evenly over it. Never bring your gun closer. The coating should be light and there should be places where paint has not taken up. If this happens, you do not need to keep the can directed at one point and you do not need to bring the can closer. For now, just apply a thin layer. You can always additionally finish the surface. Spray a thin layer of paint wherever you want to paint the gun, even if more colors will be added later. Now, depending on the weather, you need to wait 20 minutes to 2 hours for the paint to dry completely. (If it is hot outside and the sun is shining, carefully take the gun outside. Be careful not to touch the painted parts, even if they look dry. Leave the gun on the box in the sun for 20 minutes.)

Return to work when you are sure the paint is dry. To see if the paint has dried, take a blade of grass and touch it to places where you are not sure if the paint is dry. Now touch the more bulging parts and where there is more paint. If the paint is dry lightly touch it with your little finger. If the paint is not sticky, grasp it Little stronger. If the paint does not stick now, lightly rub over the painted parts with your finger. If the paint is sticky, wait as long as you waited the last time, otherwise you will regret it later. If the paint is dry, carefully lift the gun up and carry it back to the garage. Now take the same color and go over the places where the paint didn't come from. Work neatly too. Some parts need to be painted up to 5 times for the paint to take hold and look great. Again, do not bring the can closer than 20 centimeters or overexpose. If you hold it over one of the parts for more than 5 seconds, you can damage the gun.

Repeat the entire procedure over and over again. When you're done, go from lighter to darker colors. If necessary, apply dark colors over lighter ones. Never switch to another color until you have gone through step # 10 and are sure the paint is completely dry.

Leave the gun to dry for a few days. Make sure where you leave it (like your room) is dry. DO NOT peel off the adhesive tape or remove the barrel plug.

Remove the tape. As you remove the tape from the barrel, tilt the barrel downward to prevent dry paint from entering the inside of the gun.

You don't have to paint your gun over and over again. If you apply more than 2 coats, your gun may look like hell knows what.
Paint like Krylon FUSION is designed for plastics and doesn't take well, but looks better and is sold in camouflage colors.
Try to dye things that you no longer wear or are easy to clean. Otherwise, you will be sorry, because painting will cost you dearly.
Never paint your friends' guns until you have practiced properly.
Digital camouflage can be obtained in several ways: 1) Get a digital template. 2) Take small pieces of masking tape, cut each one and glue in small squares on the gun where you want to make digital camouflage. It is not recommended to do this and, most likely, it will not look very good. If you really want digital camouflage, ask a professional to apply it to you.
It is best to paint on sunny days inside. ("inside" means in your garage)
It is recommended to dye in clothes with long legs and sleeves.

Warnings

When painting, do not inhale paint fumes. Also, when you're done painting, be sure to wash your hands. (If you've dyed in short sleeves or shorts, take a shower.)
If the paint seems dry on the first day, don't be silly just because the paint says: "Dries in 15 minutes; can be used after 1 hour." This does not mean that the paint is completely dry. In an hour, if you pick up the gun in your hands, do not be surprised if your hands are covered in paint, and the marks of your hands remain on the gun itself.
Never play with your airgun in a public place not designated for this. Using an air gun in or near a public place may result in, at a minimum, the confiscation of the gun, and may result in a fine and your arrest. Let alone if you tried to injure yourself! To avoid injury to those who do not play, always play in a safe area designed specifically for softball, away from public areas.
Do not paint on the grass - it is harmful to the grass. Place newspapers and paint on them.
Even if the gun is painted in colors that are far from black, it is VERY dangerous to bring the gun out in public, even if it looks fake.
In the United States, this is considered a manifestation of violence. Federal law requires airguns and toy guns to be marked with orange tape. Federal law requires all types of such guns to be labeled so that it can be seen that they are not real if you intend to sell or send the gun by mail or other means of communication. Changes to the gun do not violate the law, but restrictions may vary from location to location. For more detailed information on restrictions in the Russian Federation, search the Internet for extracts from laws relating to airguns. However, a good reason to tag a weapon is that a police officer could seriously injure you if he mistakenly confuses your weapon with a real one.

What do you need

Gun
Paint (matte)
Carton / boxes
Newspapers
Masking tape
Paper and paper towels (Kleenex will work)
The sun
patience
self-control - especially when you are trying to paint a place and it is not being painted. Trust me, you will need patience.
1.000 grit sandpaper (in case the paint is uneven).

Thank you for the provided paint for the review of the store http://www.duracoat.ru/

The native coating on the mossberg is not very resistant: it peels off, the iron is covered with rust even through it. I decided that repainting was the way to go. The monochromatic color seemed trivial to me and I chose multicolor camouflage.

What I got, as well as detailed instructions for painting weapons, read this article. Perhaps my experience will help beginners (like myself) avoid some mistakes.

I will add that detailed instructions for painting in multicam are not attached to the kit, so what I did was pure improvisation.

And also in this article I will talk about a textured additive to paint.

At the time of the beginning of work, my mossberg is the following. The condition is very vigorous, but the paint from the magazine and the barrel begins to peel off.

The first step is to disassemble the gun.

We remove the collimator and the bar.

It can be seen that he also loves to rust.

After removing the butt, we take up the barrel.

We unscrew the fixing nut.

Open the bolt halfway and take out the barrel.

We knock out the pin fixing the trigger and remove the trigger itself.

We take out the bolt and everything from the receiver, remove the forend with rods.

Now you need to prepare the surface for painting.

Remove the old coating using a brass brush on a drill and sandpaper.

All parts are sanded, holes and threads are sealed with masking tape.

The paint comes in a blister, but unfortunately it could not bear the hardships of sending it by mail. Here's everything included in the Multicolor paint kit:
Spray paint can
Six different colors (the names have already been assigned by me)
Purifier
Hardener
Syringe for measuring ingredients
Self-adhesive stencils

Before painting, we degrease with a cleaner.

The smell is extremely strong, reminiscent of gasoline, so it is better to work in a ventilated area. I did all the painting at home. It stinks a lot, but if you keep the balcony door open, then it is tolerable.

The base layer will be the lightest paint.
Mix with a hardener in a twelve to one ratio.
The hardener must be stored in the freezer, as you can read on the packaging.

Apply in an even layer on all sides, trying to avoid smudges. Do not bring the sprayer too close.

The base coat is applied.

Can be blown with air at minimum temperature. One can of paint was not enough, I had to use milk brown.

We are waiting for two hours and then we collect the gun.

We glue small stencils. There are 10 of them in a set. These spots will ultimately remain the base lightest color.

A little trick: I stenciled the gun numbers on the barrel and receiver so that many layers of paint would not completely hide them.

Two colors will go on the second layer: Milk brown and Green.

We paint in stripes and leave to dry for a couple of hours.

Now it's the turn of the big stencils. As you can see from the photo, it is better to use gloves, otherwise a resistant coating is provided not only to your gun, but also to the nails and skin of your hands.

Cover the surface evenly.

Next colors will be Milk Green and Brown.

The third layer is also applied in stripes. Leave to dry for two hours.

After drying, we remove all the stencils and enjoy the semi-finished camouflage product.

Now we need to apply small spots, for this we use the frames of the very first small stencils.

These spots turn black.

In some nuances, I had to deviate from the instructions, for example, I mixed black with brown in order to get closer to the original multicam.
The instructions say that you cannot use a brush to apply paint. But the smallest spots still had to be painted with a brush. There were no problems.

The supplied Prevel spray is quite convenient, but it seemed to me that the paint consumption is too large

As a result, we get just such a color.

Note. The sight was mounted on a painted rail without any problems

Thank you for the provided paint for the review of the store http://www.duracoat.ru/

What I got, as well as detailed instructions for painting weapons, read this article. Perhaps my experience will help beginners (like myself) avoid some mistakes.

I will add that detailed instructions for painting in multicam are not attached to the kit, so what I did was pure improvisation.

And also in this article I will talk about a textured additive to paint.

At the time of the beginning of work, my mossberg is the following. The condition is very vigorous, but the paint from the magazine and the barrel begins to peel off.

The first step is to disassemble the gun.

Removes the collimator and the bar.

It can be seen that he also loves to rust.

After removing the butt, we take up the barrel.

We unscrew the fixing nut.

Open the bolt halfway and take out the barrel.

We knock out the pin fixing the trigger and remove the trigger itself.

We take out the bolt and everything from the receiver, remove the forend with rods.

Now you need to prepare the surface for painting.

Remove the old coating using a brass brush on a drill and sandpaper.

All parts are sanded, holes and threads are sealed with masking tape.

Before painting, we degrease with a cleaner.
The smell is extremely strong, reminiscent of gasoline, so it is better to work in a ventilated area. I did all the painting at home. It stinks a lot, but if you keep the balcony door open, then it is tolerable.

The base layer will be the lightest paint.
Mix with a hardener in a twelve to one ratio.
The hardener must be stored in the freezer, as you can read on the packaging.

Apply in an even layer on all sides, trying to avoid smudges. Do not bring the sprayer too close.

The base coat is applied.

Can be blown with air at minimum temperature. One can of paint was not enough, I had to use milk brown.

We are waiting for two hours and then we collect the gun.

We glue small stencils. There are 10 of them in a set. These spots will ultimately remain the base lightest color.
A little trick: I stenciled the gun numbers on the barrel and receiver so that many layers of paint would not completely hide them.

Two colors will go on the second layer: Milk brown and Green.

We paint in stripes and leave to dry for a couple of hours.

Cover the surface evenly.

Next colors will be Milk Green and Brown.

The third layer is also applied in stripes. Leave to dry for two hours.

After drying, we remove all the stencils and enjoy the semi-finished camouflage product.

Now we need to apply small spots, for this we use the frames of the very first small stencils.

These spots turn black.

The supplied Prevel spray is quite convenient, but it seemed to me that the paint consumption is too large

As a result, we get just such a color.

Note. The sight was mounted on a painted rail without any problems

Let's compare with the original multicam. As you can see from the photo, there are differences in color. Warmer ocher shades are lacking and these colors cannot be mixed from the available ones. The original does not have such a pronounced white color.

In fact, when ordering paint, you can ask for a tinting for the original cartoons, I just did not guess before.

Not so long ago in Denis's magazine twower in the entry: "Refinement of weapons in the special forces", the question of the need to paint weapons was raised, and the opinion of a serviceman of the special forces unit on this matter was voiced. This topic attracted a lot of attention, and many opinions were left in the comments, with many - diametrically opposed - especially about the very need for painting, as such. Out of curiosity, I decided to set up a simple experiment and thereby throw some more information for thought to those who are interested.

The test subjects were two magazines for 30 rounds for the AK-74M assault rifle. One is virgin black, and the other is obscenely painted. Why is it obscene? Because no profile paint was used, the colors and patterns of camouflage were not matched to the terrain - the goal was simply to make the store non-black and nothing more. The basic beige color is paint for scale models, and brown and green colors are generally aerosols from a hardware store, which, in addition to being too bright in color, are also glossy. All this was "blown out" through some old tablecloth.

Result.
The distance is about 20 meters. The shops are simply thrown to the ground. Bottom half of the photo at 3x magnification.

For the purity of the experiment, I change their places, because the grass cover is not uniform. The conditions are the same.

As for me, it is very clear.
But I will not voice my personal conclusions - I think everyone can make their own.

UPDATE 04/01/2016:
Another visual experiment. Again, out of curiosity.
There are two AK-74Ms - one black, the other painted. The colors when painting were not matched directly to the tone of the terrain - just green-brown shades from the series "if only it was not black."

Stand upright in the same way. The vegetation cover is identical.
Distance 10m:

Distance 20m, lower half with 3x magnification:

UPDATE 04/13/2016:
An extreme experiment, probably. To the question raised by a friend

Coloring, taking away its shine from pure steel, makes the gun less noticeable to the game, and most importantly - it protects steel and iron from rusting.

In itself, this work is not difficult, only for good luck it requires very great accuracy and perfect cleanliness; beginners rarely succeed.

The barrels must be completely cleaned from the outside of rust, all stains and traces of the previous color to full whiteness - first with sandpaper no. 00, then the thinnest no. 000, or with a cork soaked in oil and sprinkled with sandpaper, or the so-called "steel wool". The cutoffs of the trunks, as well as the flat parts under the breech, are, of course, not touched.

For polishing, the trunks are then wiped, sprinkled with dry fine emery, or even better with "Viennese lime", and rubbed with a soft cloth.

Before cleaning and polishing, the barrels are thickly greased inside with lard and tightly plugged with precisely fitted and also oiled wooden sticks from the treasury and from the barrel. The trees should stick out 18-22 cm (4-5 tops) outward, so that you can handle the trunks without touching the metal with your fingers.

It is necessary to grease all parts of the extractor and pour it over, as well as cutoffs of trunks and hooks with flat parts, rosin (harpius) or wax; if the trunks have to be very heated (see below), then these parts should be filled with plaster, as well as the breech and muzzle ends of the trunks, inserting a nail into the plaster of paris, stuck in a stick.

Having completely cleaned and polished the surfaces of the trunks, it is necessary to remove the slightest traces of fat from them (for example, from accidental touching even with a dry hand). To do this, wash the trunks thoroughly with soap, and then a strong solution of potash (potassium carbonate) or a weak solution of caustic soda or just ash, then thoroughly wash in several waters and wipe dry with a dry cloth or clean tow.

You can clean the barrel of traces of grease by carefully wiping it with a wet cloth with sifted wood ash or chalk, then scalding it with boiling water (from a samovar) and wiping it thoroughly with a clean dry cloth.

For some painting methods, it is also necessary to prepare a bathtub of such length that the trunks with sticks sticking out of them enter freely, the width is quite spacious, 12-13 cm (2.7-3 inches), and about 11 cm deep (2.5 inches ). It can be made from iron, tin, zinc, even just from boards, just pour the seams thickly with melted black resin, rosin or wax.

It is best to attach the trunks to strong twines tied to wooden sticks so that the trunks hang in the tub, by no means touching either the walls or the bottom of it.

In many cases, the oxide layer aimed at the trunks during painting must be cleaned off before bringing an even uniform gloss with a metal brush, such as those used in factories for combing wool. You can make it like this: take the very tank ("knitting") of iron wire, cut into pieces of 7 centimeters (1.5 vershok), fold the pieces into a bundle about the thickness of a little finger, tie tightly in the middle with twine in several turns, trimming one from the ends of the bundle of wires (lightly tapping the ends with a hammer). The resulting flat top platform is still rubbed in with the smallest file or donkey. You can also use small file brushes.

They rub the trunks with a brush, without scratching them, but stroking with a brush in one direction, so to speak, "along the wool", leaving nowhere unused matte spots.

The following recipes for the various colors were collected from various good gunsmiths and technicians over the years; we give without changing their nomenclature, not all recipes are the same.

Therefore, here we stipulate that "ferric chloride", "one and a half-ferric chloride", "two-trichloride iron", "Ferrum ses-qu.chloratum", "Ferrum tricnloratum" are all one and the same, having one chemical formula " Fe CL3 ". "Ferric chloride" has a slightly different composition (less chlorine), so its chemical formula is: Fe CL2 ".

1. Coloring in blue. Dissolve 0.5 percent in hot water in one vessel. ferric chloride ("Ferrum tnchlora-tum purrum"), and in the other 0.5 percent, that is, for one vodka bottle 3 g of red blood salt (kalium ferri cyanatum); after mixing two equal volumes of these solutions in a bath, the trunks are immersed there and kept until the desired color.

After taking out, wash the barrels with cold water, not touching the metal with their hands, let it dry and, with a little heating, gently wipe it with boiled oil (linseed oil) on a soft canvas cloth, but not greasy, and leave it to dry for several days.

2. Coloring in blue-black color in e t. Dissolve copper sulfate (blue) (cuprum sulfuricum) until refusal in water and add 5-6 drops of sulfuric acid (acidum sulfuricum) dropwise to each glass of solution. The trunks are immersed in this bath until they acquire the color of red copper. Then they are rinsed with water, and if these are Damascus trunks, then they are immersed in 10 percent. a solution of ammonia (liquor ammonium causti-cum) (the usual commercial pharmacy ammonium is a 10% solution of ammonia in water) until the Damascus pattern becomes clearer; then the trunks are taken out and rinsed thoroughly with water. Steel barrels are not passed through this ammonia bath.

Next, hyposulfite is dissolved in hot water (sodium sulfite (natrum hyposulfurosum), about 200 g for each glass; the solution is passed through a funnel with filter paper or hygroscopic (pharmaceutical) cotton wool. The trunks are suspended in the bath before pouring this solution, by no means touching them either to the walls or to the bottom of the bath.Hydrochloric or hydrochloric acid (acidum muriaticum or acidum hvdro-cloricum) 2% by volume, or 0.25 glasses of acid for 12.5 glasses of solution When mixed with acid, the solution becomes cloudy and yellow, and then the trunks are immersed in it, hot.

After 5 seconds, you should remove the trunks, pour cold water and see if the color has begun to show. If it seemed, then the trunks are again immersed in the bath for half a minute (30; seconds), no more, and again they are taken out, poured over with water and looked. (When in this way the color is brought to the desired blackness, then the trunks are carefully, without touching with hands, washed in cold water. Then the used hyposulfite solution is poured from the bath (it can be useful again, but with the addition of hydrochloric acid again); wash the bath and pour there is a solution of potassium alum (Alumen kаlium pulvis) in water: for every 5 glasses of water, half a glass of alum powder.

In this solution, the trunks are placed for 12 hours, then washed with cold water, allowed to dry and, slightly heating (for example, taking out one of the plugs of each barrel and pouring boiling water inside), gently wipe with boiled oil (linseed oil) on a soft canvas cloth, but not greasy, and, hanging freely, allow to dry for up to six days.

3. Coloring in gray. It is produced as just described above, but a weaker solution of hyposulfite is taken, 200 g per 3 5 glasses of water, and is applied not hot, but cold.

4. Coloring in brownish-black color. In 40 parts of water, dissolve 2 parts of ferric chloride (Ferrum chloratum purrum), 2 parts of antimony chloride and 1 part of gallic acid (Acidum gallicum). This solution is applied to the trunks with a piece of a sponge or cloth, trying not to let parts of the surface uncoated, but not to cover it twice and not to drip down, but to cover it along the trunks evenly and uniformly, evenly. The coating is repeated several times to the desired shade, washed with water, dried and wiped with linseed oil.

b. Coloring black. Concentrated sulfuric acid is dropped into half a glass of turpentine (turpentine oil), stirring thoroughly with a glass rod or tube each time; at the same time, a black mass settles at the bottom. From time to time a little fresh turpentine is poured into the glass. When it comes out with 0.25 cups of black sediment, then the glass is left for several hours so that the sediment will settle more densely at rest.

Then all the turpentine from the sediment is carefully poured, water is poured instead, in which the sediment is stirred with a glass rod, and then again allowed to settle, and the water is carefully drained. This washing of the sediment with clean water is repeated 12-15 times, trying to see if all the acid has been washed off (if a strip of litmus paper dipped in water, which is available in any pharmacy, turns from purple-pink to pure pink, it means that the traces of acid have not yet been washed off) ...

When the acid is washed off, the sediment is poured onto a clean thin linen cloth and the water is filtered through it. The sediment is then applied to the trunks, ideally with a flat bristle brush about 27g cm wide, as evenly as possible. If, due to the density, the sediment falls unevenly, add a little turpentine and mix it thoroughly with the sediment; if the sediment is too liquid and runs off the trunk, you need to carefully evaporate the sediment over an alcohol lamp.

Well-made sediment covers the trunks with an even translucent dark brown layer. Having coated the trunks, it is necessary to heat them evenly, correctly and slowly turning them over the fire (at least "over a kerosene stove, etc., if there is no special stove.) It is necessary to heat quite strongly, so this method is not suitable for trunks brazed with tin.

As it heats up, the brown color is replaced by a black, more matte color. When the blackness has settled evenly, the trunks are allowed to cool slowly and, while they are still warm, they are wiped with a cloth with a small amount of drying oil, after which they are allowed to dry for several days.

This method is more suitable for steel barrels, since it depicts the Damascus pattern unclear.

6. Coloring black. Dissolve sulfuric liver (potassium sulphide, kalium sulfuratum ad balneum) in hot filtered water, 410 g for each bottle of water. Then, 1 teaspoon of hydrochloric acid is poured onto each bottle of the resulting solution. In a bath with this solution, the trunks are suspended so that they are 2.5-4.5 cm (0.75 vershok or one vershok) below the surface of the solution and so that during the course of staining they can be slowly turned in all directions (for example, by fixing two ropes with rings to the ceiling or to the upper jamb of the window, into which sticks sticking out of the trunks or nails driven into these sticks are inserted). Having obtained the desired color, the trunks are washed with water, heated with boiling water and rubbed with linseed oil, as already mentioned above.

7. Coloring in dark chocolate color with bluish tint. For 20 parts by weight of distilled water, 24s parts of ferrous sulfate (green) and 0.5 parts of iron sesquichloride (in pharmacies, against bleeding) are taken. This solution (it can be saved) is taken with a piece of absorbent cotton, more or less tightly rolled up, and applied in an even, uniform layer along the trunks; then the trunks are placed (preferably suspended) for 1 hour in a dry place, and then for 24 hours in a very damp (cellar).

Then, with a metal brush, they thoroughly, but carefully, clean off the resulting rust, without leaving anywhere an unruled matte place; scald the trunks with boiling water from a samovar, wipe dry with a dry, clean cloth; the second time, the trunks are covered in the same way with the same solution. And everything is done 10-12 times in exactly the same order, with aging each time in the cellar.

Having received a good color, if the trunks are Damascus, they are rubbed for the last time to a shine with a metal aunt, scalded with boiling water, wiped dry and rubbed with linseed oil. If the barrels are steel, then it is better to paint in a dark blue tone (you can, of course, do this with Damascus ones), as indicated below.

8. Coloring in dark blue color. They do everything as indicated above for the dark chocolate color, but then, without rubbing the trunks with linseed oil, prepare such a solution: by 1.8. l (3/20 buckets) of water take 38.4 g (3 lots) of log extract and 0.2 g (3 grains) of ferrous sulfate, stir this solution with a wooden chip in a bath, heat (at least on the stove) to a boil (and The trunks are suspended in the bath, continuing to boil for 10 minutes, then, having taken out, the trunks are wiped with a dry cloth, rubbed with linseed oil and dried.

9. Coloring in chestnut - brown color. Heat 16 drops of nitric acid in a porcelain vessel (be careful, as the fumes are extremely harmful to both breathing and eyes), add 32 drops of antimony oil (antimony trichloride, bu-tyrum antimonii) and 16 drops of olive oil and boil the mixture slightly until the mixture is fully combined ... The heated trunks are covered with the mixture with the caution and uniformity already indicated in other recipes and left to hang for 12 hours, then rubbed, as already explained above, with a metal brush, and the etching is repeated up to three times. Then, after polishing with a metal brush, rub it with a cloth soaked in bone oil.

10. Brown color. Mix 4.3 g (1 gold) slightly sugar-sweetened "nitric alcohol" (nitric acid), 3.1 g (0.75 gold) solution of ferric oxide, 3.1 g (0.75 gold) antimony oils (antimony trichloride) and) 4.3 g (1 gold) copper sulfate. This mixture in a tightly sealed bottle is placed in a warm (not hot) place for 24 hours. Thereafter, 102.4 grams (8 lots) of distilled or rain filtered water (0.25 lb, or 102 cc) is added and stored until used.

Sponge or cotton wool (pharmaceutical) evenly cover the trunks with this compound and place them in a warm place for 24 hours. The resulting thin coating of rust is carefully brushed off with a metal brush until an even color and gloss is obtained. Then the coloring liquid is applied again, and the whole operation is repeated in the same order for the second time, and then the third, only at the third time the trunks are not scraped with a metal brush, but sanded with leather soaked in wood oil until the desired gloss is obtained. After that, it is dried for 12 hours and then skinned with wood oil again.

11. Coloring in dark cherry color. In sturdy glassware, one of the following two formulations is prepared.

Mix 410 g (1 lb) of distilled (or strained rain or boiled river) water, 8.54 g (2 sol.) Nitric acid, 5.15 g (1 sol. 20 shares) hydrochloric acid, 8.54 g (2 sol.) of two-trichloride iron (steel tincture, Liquor ferrum sesquichloratum) and 10.67 g (2.5 gold) each of copper (blue) and black

leg iron vitriol. Or take 690 g (54 lots) of the same water, 25.6 g (2 lots) of iron filings, 12.8 g (1 lot) of steel tincture, 51.2 g (4 lots) of hydrochloric acid and 64 g (5 lots) ) "Strong vodka".

Tightly closed with a cork, leave in a warm place for three weeks or more, after which the composition is ready for use. The composition has a dirty olive color and gives a dark orange sediment at rest.

When used, the composition is shaken and first tasted on an iron plate. If a layer of rust thicker than one "point" (0.25 mm, or 0.01 inch) forms on a greased plate in a warm place in a day, the composition must be slightly diluted with water.

The trunks are carefully and evenly covered with the composition and placed for a day in a warm place (a well-heated room, for example). The resulting rust layer is carefully polished with a metal brush until an even color and gloss is obtained. Then the trunks are again covered with the composition and everything is repeated in the same order from 4 to 12 times, i.e. until they get the desired shade or until the composition stops rusting the trunks.

After finishing painting, boiling water is poured into the trunks and polished. outside with leather soaked in wood oil.

12. Coloring in bronze-brown color. In the absence of a graphite crucible, in a strong earthen baked vessel, at least cast iron, melt ordinary cuttings sulfur over low heat, having a wet rag or a well-fitting lid ready and watching so that the sulfur does not flash. 0.1 part by weight of lamp black is mixed into the molten sulfur and mixed thoroughly. Heat a metal or clay bath well and pour the liquid mixture into it. The trunks are immersed there (of course, with plaster, not wooden "corks) and every 2-3 minutes they are taken out to see how they are painted.

Instead of sulfur, you can take 3.25-3.5 kg of ordinary nitrate (Natrium nitricum; purissimum) and, upon melting, add to it the finest powder of manganese peroxide, 1 part by weight to 8 parts of nitrate; wood sawdust mixture will not catch fire.

Then the mixture is poured into a hot bath, the trunks are immersed in it, turning them in the mixture and taking them out to look until the desired color density is obtained. Since saltpeter is flammable, the precautions are the same as with sulfur.

Then the trunks are washed and in a warm state they are polished with leather and oil.

13. Painting in black. As in other cases, the trunks are thoroughly cleaned and degreased (at least with a solution of lime in water, diluted to the thickness of good cream),

after lubricating them thickly inside and plugging them at both ends with well-fitted oiled wooden plugs sticking out 9-14 cm (2-3 vert.) or more outward.

Mix in an earthen bowl: 30 g (1/400 of a bucket) of water, 10 g (21/3 gold) of mercuric chloride and 10 g of berthollet's salt, and this mixture is warmed by placing the earthen bowl in hot water.

Then the trunks are heated, either by immersing them for a while in a trough with hot water, or pouring boiling water from a samovar tap.

A piece of sponge or a flannel (not woolen) cloth is attached in advance to a wooden stick (with pins, twine or just a clip in the split of the stick).

In a heated composition, they moisten this sponge or rag, squeeze a few and then smear the heated trunks with the composition carefully and lightly so that there are no drips and drops.

Having smeared completely evenly, the trunks are lowered for 7-10 minutes, in boiling water, taken out and allowed to dry, holding in a vertical position (muzzle down).

As soon as the trunks are dry, they are rubbed to a shine with a linen or paper (not woolen) cloth (clean, of course) and the composition is again applied to them, supporting them again if they have cooled down, as well as do not allow the composition to cool down. And again they repeat everything as mentioned above.

Repeating this operation 5-12 times, until the desired shade of thickness is obtained, thoroughly rinse the trunks with boiling water, then wipe them lightly and evenly with a dry cloth until they shine and, without letting them cool down, cover it abundantly with linseed oil on a woolen cloth, running it along the trunks along their length and with very light pressure, so as not to erase the color that has not yet matured; finally, the trunks are dried.

14. Coloring in black or brown. Barrel preparation and coloring are the same as just described. Dry trunks are also carefully wiped with the composition and left for 1 hour, then gently wiped with cotton or a cloth (not woolen) and put in boiling water for half a minute. Then the dried trunks are again covered with the composition And they repeat all this in the same order until the desired shade is obtained, that is, sometimes up to 12 times.

After that, the trunks are boiled in water for up to 10-15 minutes, lightly wiped off, allowed to dry and rubbed with oil while still warm. This produces a brown color that is good for Damascus trunks. To obtain a black color, add a teaspoon of ferrous sulfate (pale greenish-blue) to the water during this final boiling for each bottle.

Many of these painting methods, in particular the last two, are suitable for painting not only barrels, but also other parts of the gun.

15. Painting in black (method of S. I. Bereznegovsky). 96-prats is poured into a glass of turpentine drop by drop. sulfuric acid to obtain half a cup of brown sediment. Having allowed the sediment to settle well, the turpentine is carefully drained from the sediment. The remaining sediment with the remains of turpentine is carefully heated in a porcelain crucible over low heat through an asbestos circle until completely dry. The dry residue is scraped out of the crucible and ground with small amounts of turpentine until sour cream is thick. Then proceed as described above in method 5. It turns out a wonderful color of blued steel.

16. Bluing of the polished parts of the device (not soldered with tin) is done as follows. Birch or aspen charcoal of no resinous wood at all is pounded into powder and sifted through a sieve. This powder is poured into not soldered, but riveted tin or other metal box and heated on a stove or coals, stove stove, etc., until sparks begin to run across it when the powder is stirred.

Then they put well-cleaned iron or steel parts in it, it is better - having strung them on a wire beforehand, so that it is easier to remove. Things should be completely immersed in powder and covered with it, but not at all touching the bottom and walls of the box.

After 10-15 minutes of heating, the clothes are taken out, cooled a little, wiped with dry tow and again put in coal powder for heating.

All this is repeated in the same order 5-6 times, until things are sufficiently blackened. Then, letting them cool down a little, they are still warm and greased with wooden oil.

There are many more other methods and compositions. The whole secret of success is in perfect accuracy and complete cleanliness of work.