December 24, 2017

The old electric stove was connected to an outlet, which was connected to a cable of a certain cross-section. This wire led to junction box, where it was connected through a machine to the power cable coming from the substation. That is, the connection diagram is quite simple. But the days of free-standing cooktops are gradually disappearing. They have been replaced by built-in appliances, in which the panel and oven are already separate elements. Each of them has its own power cord and plugs. And since there is only one socket, it will not be possible to insert two plugs into it at once.

Connection options

It seems that the solution is located on the surface: connect both power wires from the oven and the panel into one plug and insert it into the socket. The option is essentially incorrect.

• A cable with a cross section of 3x6 mm is laid from the distribution panel to the kitchen, and a 32A circuit breaker is installed in the panel.
• The power cable for the hob is exactly the same.
• Cable cross-section for oven 3X2.5 mm. And it requires a 16 A automatic machine.

What can happen if such a twist is made. There are several options: the oven may burn out, because a 32 A machine is installed in the panel, its power cable may burn out, no one knows how the oven will behave in general. In general, this connection option is immediately rejected.

The correct connection is separate sockets for each device. But here another problem arises. How to make a branch from the main power cable 3x6 to the supply cable to the oven 3x2.5. You can’t do it directly, because if a thin cable starts to overheat, the thick cable’s protection simply won’t respond. The solution is quite simple, since the market today offers various devices with which you can neatly and reliably connect wires and cables of different sizes.

What you will need for this:

• Plastic box for 2-4 modules. Choose those that already have standard buses for zero and phase. If there are none, then you will have to additionally purchase these tires and install them in any convenient place inside the box.
• A two-pole circuit breaker that will perform both its functions and the functions of the terminal block. It is better to choose ABB S200 series machines. The thing is that two wires fit into their clamps at once. And for our design this is exactly what is necessary.
• A 16 A socket into which the plug from the oven will be connected.

Assembling the connection diagram

So, all the materials are ready, you can proceed to assembly. Here is the connection diagram for all devices.

1. A two-pole circuit breaker. The machines have one feature - the ability to connect devices to them from different sides. That is, it does not matter where the supply cable is inserted and where the outlet cable is inserted.
2. On one side, the phase and neutral from the supply wire for the oven are connected to the machine. Since the machine is selected for 16 A, accordingly it will turn off the oven if high currents appear in it.
3. On the other hand, the modules have exactly the same phase and neutral, only two wires. One will connect to hob, the second is the supply wire from the distribution panel. That is, this is the wire that was connected to the old outlet. In this case, the hob plug is cut off and the connection is made directly to the machine. By the way, some stove models are not equipped with forks. But for the oven it is better to install a separate outlet. It can be located inside the box (six-module) or mounted on the wall next to the device.
4. All that remains is to connect the grounding circuit, for this purpose the busbar was installed inside the box. That is, the grounding wire coming from the distribution board, the grounding from the oven and the hob are simultaneously connected to it.

You can make the connection differently. To do this, you only need a 16 A machine, through which the oven will be connected. But in the box, in addition to the grounding busbar, you will have to install an additional busbar for phase and zero. That is, there will be three tires in the box, so for this you will have to choose a larger device. For example, for six modules.

• The following are connected to the phase bus: the supply wire (meaning its phase wire), the supply wire of the hob and the wire connected to the machine.
• The zero bus is connected to the zero from the supply wire, from the hob and the wire going to the socket for the oven.
• A wire is drawn from the machine to the socket.

It is better to install the box somewhere below the base of the kitchen unit so that it is not visible and so that no one touches it.

In principle, these are the most correct decisions in this situation. But there is a better option. If you are renovating your apartment and decide to purchase built-in appliances, then leave the old cable for the hob. And for the oven, draw a new one with the required cross-section.

How to connect an oven and hob | Combination socket

And install a separate 16 A circuit breaker on the line. That is, you will have two sockets on the wall. Each one powers its own device. This is an ideal option for connecting an oven and hob.

Let us add that today electrical circuits are equipped with protective devices different types where the machine plays important role. It turns off the power supply to household appliances if current has formed in the network increased strength. This current burns out the supporting electrical circuits. But there is one more device, the installation of which is considered mandatory today. This is an RCD (residual current device).

It is necessary so that a person does not get an electric shock when there is a breakdown in the electrical circuit, and the voltage is transmitted to the metal housings of the same oven or hob. If a person touches the metal, he gets an electric shock. If there is an RCD, then it takes over these stray currents. This protective device can be installed inside the distribution board or near the outlet where the box was mounted.

Home » Sockets » How to correctly position the socket for the oven

How to position the oven socket correctly

When designing a box for an oven, not all home owners and furniture assemblers remember one important feature: it is necessary to correctly position the device's socket, choosing the most suitable place for it. To do this, you need to follow certain rules.

Installing an oven socket: basic rules

Often, a regular extension cord is used to supply power to the device. But it is not always possible to do this. Then you need to think about the location so as to place the outlet directly in the area where the oven is located.

In any case, before you start installing the outlet, you need to read the recommendations that are given in the passport for the oven. The passport also indicates the overall dimensions of the electrical equipment, which influence the choice of box, primarily its size.

It is very important to remember that there are areas where you cannot install an outlet. These include:

• space on the wall immediately behind the oven. This arrangement makes it impossible to use the outlet, and also makes it difficult to place the oven in the box;
• in places where water may get on the outlet - near a sink or sewer drain. If there is a problem of lack of space and the outlet has to be installed under the sink, it must be reliably protected from moisture. To ensure such protection, you need to contact a professional.
• next to the hob.

Where can I install an oven socket?

Due to the fact that electrical equipment does not tolerate proximity to water, it is first of all important that the outlet is located away from water supply and wastewater facilities.

Following important rule- the socket for the oven should be lower than the countertop, and it is advisable that it be located in a box. But you must remember to make sure there is free access to the outlet from the outside. To do this, you can remove the back wall of the box or part of it.

Constant access to the outlet is necessary for safety reasons, as damage or fire can occur even if installed correctly.

Is it possible to connect the oven and hob to the same outlet?

In this case, you must very quickly disconnect the device from the network.
The oven socket can be installed not only in the box, but also in the following places:

• on the wall next to the box designed for exhaust hood;
• on one of the working walls of the kitchen unit.

Install an outlet, if convenient, outside the headset.

Extension cord to help

As for power supply from the oven to the outlet, it is usually carried out using an extension cord. Thanks to this feature, the distance of the outlet from the oven is not important.

So that the extension cord does not catch the eye and does not create interference, it is hidden. For example, you can place an extension cord behind the headset; a convenient place for it is the gap between the wall and the box. If using an extension cord is undesirable, you need to think about the location of the device and outlet in advance. In this case, the socket must be installed no further than 1 meter from the oven installation area.

In order not to make a mistake in the installation and not to redo this operation in the future, it is recommended to seek advice from a professional or completely entrust this procedure to a specialist. A qualified electrician will be able to help you decide on the best location to place the outlet for the oven, and, if necessary, will install the outlet. In this case, you can be sure that the socket for the oven will not only have the correct location, but will also comply with safety regulations.

Socket for hob and oven

What kind of socket for an oven should there be?

When you decide to purchase a stylish, fashionable oven for your kitchen, do not forget that this equipment requires high-quality wiring and sockets. Without a reliable wire that connects the distribution panel and a suitable outlet designed to operate such a powerful unit, the new oven will not last long. Therefore, when going to an electrical goods store, first determine what the power of the new electrical equipment is. Considering this parameter, know that the power socket for the oven in the photo cannot have a power less than this number. A larger reserve of power is acceptable, and even desirable. Anything less will cause the equipment to quickly burn out.

Choosing an outlet

We calculate the power

This is the main parameter that should be followed when choosing an outlet for connecting the oven. For any model of electrical equipment, the manufacturer provides the buyer with instructions that clearly indicate all technical parameters. The standard amount of power consumption is 1.5-2.5 kW. Dividing this figure by the network voltage, we obtain an indicator of the current strength that occurs when the device is connected to the network. Typically, the current is 12 amperes. Taking into account such calculations, we come to the conclusion which outlet is needed for the oven. Namely 16 amperes. If you plan to connect the oven and hob to one paired outlet, its power must be at least 32 amperes. It is this reserve that will allow you to easily use the oven and hob at the same time without fear of a short circuit.

Other options

Modern electric ovens are equipped with Euro standard plugs. Therefore, the socket for connecting the oven must also be of the Euro type. Plus, given the power of electric furnaces, you should purchase a socket with ceramic insides. Only ceramics can withstand excessive loads, for 2-3 hours - the optimal period of continuous operation of the hob and oven. By appearance and color scheme, there are no special recommendations. These parameters are determined by the buyer independently.

Installation

Having decided which sockets for the oven and hob are suitable for a particular case, you should consider the nuances of installing the equipment. Before you start installing electrical equipment, you need to make sure that the wiring is suitable for such powerful devices. If the conductors are old, it is recommended to replace them with new copper or steel ones. Additionally, we install 32-amp circuit breakers in the electrical panel, which will allow you to quickly turn off the power to kitchen equipment if necessary. Note that some manufacturers, such as Samsung and Hansa, equip ovens and hobs with branded sockets. In this case, you just need to install an outlet and connect the unit to it.

Determining the location

Before installing the socket for the oven, you need to think about where to install this element. Experts say that sockets for connecting ovens and hobs should not be located in the following places:

• In the area where the sink, drain and near the water supply are located.
• On the wall, in the area where the oven itself is located.
• Above the worktop.

The best location is the inside of the headset under the work surface, to which there is easy access. If the socket is placed above the countertop, then this should be done away from the sink, refrigerator, oven and hob.

How to properly connect the oven to the electrical network. What wire and circuit breaker do you need?

Compliance with this rule will help avoid short circuits in the electrical circuit.

Some electricians advise not to purchase a separate power outlet, but to connect the oven and hob to an outlet in the kitchen using an extension cord. Immediately abandon this idea, since numerous connections lead to short circuits and fire hazards. It is better not to skimp on high-quality wiring and the purchase of suitable high-quality elements of electrical equipment. Remember, the safety of the entire home depends on how correctly the household appliances are selected and connected.

Which socket for an electric oven can be selected and how to connect it correctly is shown in the video.

To summarize, we note that the choice of outlet to which you plan to connect an electric oven and hob must be approached as responsibly as possible. The service life of the kitchen appliance depends on the quality of this equipment. household appliances. Don’t try to save money and buy cheap analogues. Experts recommend installing expensive electrical equipment that will differ high quality. Only in this case can you be sure of the safe use of the oven and hob.

Connecting the oven and hob to the mains: using a power outlet

The hob and oven are powerful consumers of electricity, for connecting which a dedicated line with a separate specially designed socket must be used.

Types of hobs

Depending on the design, there are two types of hobs:

1. Dependent (connected) surface. Its operation can be controlled using handles located on the electric oven.
2. Unrelated. Receives power via a separate line and is controlled by its own means.

Important! An unconnected hob and oven cannot be connected to the same outlet. To power each of these devices, its own line is laid.

Induction cookers

Such equipment can be separated into a separate group not so much due to the peculiarities of its connection, but because of the unusual principle of operation, which is based on the heating of metal utensils under the influence of a powerful electromagnetic field created on the surface of the device. Such a field causes eddy currents to flow in the metal from which the cookware is made, which causes it to heat up.

The advantages of induction cookers include:

1. High efficiency and heating speed of dishes.
2. A working stove affects only metal utensils, without having any effect on the kitchen utensils located near it.
3. The glossy surface of the stove maintains a low temperature during cooking.

Currently, induction cookers are not very common because they have some disadvantages:

1. Inability to work with ceramic, glass or aluminum cookware (the electromagnetic field only affects ferromagnetic materials).
2. The price of such equipment is quite high.
3. The presence of a characteristic sound when the material of a cookware installed on the stove is remagnetized.

Selecting devices to connect the panel

The power of most models of modern ovens is 3-3.5 kW.

Connecting the hob and oven. Connection diagram, sockets

The hob consumes up to 7 kW. To connect the oven, you must use a power outlet and electrical cables with a rated current of at least 16 amperes. More powerful models of this kitchen equipment are powered through power outlets with a rated current of 32 A, and each of these consumers must have one outlet.

As for the choice of the cable through which the hob or oven is connected to the distribution panel, then with a rated current of 16 A you should choose a copper cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2, and with a current of 32 A - 6 mm2.

To facilitate the selection of the required section, the following table can be used:

Most modern hobs are supplied without an electrical plug; it must be selected in accordance with the installed plug connector, as well as the device connection diagram used and the supply voltage.

Connection methods

To connect the hob, you can use one of the following diagrams:

1. Single-phase circuit. Performed when installing equipment in apartments where there is only a single-phase 220 V network.
2. Two-phase or three-phase connection, used to increase power and simultaneously increase the efficiency of this equipment.

It is not possible to determine in advance one of the schemes according to which the connection will be made. Therefore, manufacturers do not equip the hob with a standard electrical plug.

As for less powerful consumers, which are ovens, they are designed to operate from a household power supply with a voltage of 220 V. Therefore, such equipment is equipped with a standard Euro plug, which includes grounding contacts in its design. This configuration is possible for ovens whose rated current does not exceed 16 A.

Single-phase connection of consumers is carried out using a three-core cable, which includes a phase (L), neutral (N) and grounding (PE) conductor. If the hob is installed in an old house where the wiring is laid with aluminum cable, then the line supplying these consumers must be replaced in order to ensure the required level of reliability and electrical safety.

To install a hob with your own hands, as well as connect especially powerful models of ovens, use a power outlet with a rated current of 32 A, which is necessarily equipped with a grounding contact. In appearance, such a device resembles a three-phase socket.

Connecting the line to the electrical panel

When connecting a hob or oven to an electrical panel, each of these electrical appliances should use one line, protected by its own circuit breaker. At the same time, for consumers with a rated current of 16 A, a 25 A circuit breaker is used, and for consumers whose rated current is 32 A, a 40 A circuit breaker is used.

It is mandatory to connect protective grounding. In consumers such as a hob or oven, the power cable has one grounding conductor, which is connected to the body of the electrical appliance and brought out to connect to the corresponding contact on the electrical plug. The grounding conductor has a yellow-green insulation color.

Important! The grounding and neutral conductors must not be swapped when connecting them. One such mistake can lead to very serious consequences.

It often happens that the wires brought out to connect the hob have the same insulation color, or their markings do not correspond to the generally accepted ones. When connecting such a consumer with your own hands, you must make sure that all terminals are connected correctly.

If the phase conductor is easy enough to identify using an ordinary indicator screwdriver, then distinguishing the neutral wire from the ground wire is often much more difficult. To do this, a tester is used.

Determination of phase, neutral and ground wires can be performed using the following algorithm:

1. At the installation site of the electrical outlet, which is intended to power the hob or oven, the phase wire is determined using an indicator screwdriver. It is necessary to sign this conductor or mark it with a piece of electrical tape.
2. On electrical panel, to which the socket is connected, the purpose of each wire going to the consumer is determined. It is quite easy to identify the phase and neutral wires using an indicator screwdriver. As for the grounding conductor, it is connected to the metal body of the electrical panel or to a special terminal block.
3. The neutral and phase wires are disconnected from the input circuit breaker and connected to each other.
4. On the consumer side, the resistance between the phase and the remaining two wires is measured using a tester. In the case where the resistance is equal minimum value, the neutral wire will be found.
5. Once all wire ends have been identified and labeled, the socket is installed and the cable is connected to the circuit breaker.

Direct connection

One of the options for installing a hob is to directly connect the power supply wire to the terminal block of this equipment. In this case, the outlet is not used at all. This connection is considered the most reliable, but can cause a number of inconveniences when operating the hob. To disconnect it from the power supply, you will only have to use the standard switch on the control panel. If this switch fails, it will be quite difficult to de-energize the hob.

Execution of work

The procedure for connecting a hob or oven with your own hands can be as follows:

• Selecting the cross-section of the electrical cable with which this equipment will be connected, as well as the rated current of the circuit breaker and socket. If the power supply line has already been laid, then it is necessary to evaluate its parameters depending on the power of the connected equipment. If these parameters do not match, you will have to lay another line using a more powerful cable.
• Based on the operating instructions for the hob, and also taking into account the characteristics of the home electrical network, a single-phase, two-phase or three-phase connection can be selected. To find out how the hob is connected to the network, as well as its nominal parameters, you should use the operating instructions. In addition, in most models of such equipment, there is a simple electrical diagram, which is applied to the device body directly next to the terminal block.

• The electrical cable is being laid to the distribution panel. The hob or oven must be connected using a residual current device. The presence of an RCD will help to identify possible insulation damage in a timely manner and prevent the consequences of a phase-to-ground fault.
• The electrical plug is connected in accordance with the markings of the wires. The grounding contact always differs from the phase and neutral contacts. It may vary in shape, size and location.
• A power electrical outlet is installed. In most cases, hidden wiring is used, which involves preliminary gating of the walls, as well as the making of a niche in the wall intended for installation installation box.
• The cable is connected at the electrical panel using a circuit breaker and an RCD (as an alternative to these two devices, a differential circuit breaker can be used).

Connecting powerful household consumers with your own hands is, although not difficult, but a very responsible task, for which you must carefully follow the recommendations of the manufacturers of this equipment, as well as follow safety rules when working with elements electrical network.

Household appliances are becoming more and more advanced. To replace conventional electric and gas stoves new complex devices are coming, characterized by high power. To ensure the safety of their operation, it is necessary to choose the right socket for the oven and hob. You should also familiarize yourself with the connection features of this equipment.

No housewife can do without an oven. Modern ovens can be divided into two groups, the differences between which lie not only in design, but also in the methods of providing power. Thus, when choosing an oven model, you need to remember that they come in:

• Dependent.
• Independent.

The first type of device is most often installed in special niches of kitchen furniture. In this case, the oven and hob should be located one above the other. This is due to the fact that both devices are connected by a single power system. The general control panel is located on the oven.

Independent type devices are more convenient to use, as they can be mounted independently of each other in any convenient location. If you wish, you can completely abandon the hob if you plan to use a multicooker.

Installing a separate outlet under the oven and hob will allow you to safely operate these powerful electrical appliances. In addition, a number of requirements must be observed during installation.

To properly connect the oven and hob, you need to pay special attention to the electrical wiring. This is one of the most important factors for the safe and competent operation of such powerful equipment. The following factors are decisive:

Oven location

Before installing this device, it is necessary to select and equip a place for it. To solve this problem, it is recommended to use special niches in kitchen furniture. You should also pay attention to some useful tips:

If the power of a household appliance is 3-3.5 kW, then it is necessary to install a 16 A socket and a 25 A circuit breaker. When using more than powerful devices, it must be rated at 32 A. To supply a supply voltage of 220 V, you must use a conductor with three current-carrying conductors. If the equipment is connected to a 380 V network, then the main line is laid using a cable with five cores.

There are six contacts on the inside of the oven plug. Three of them (1 to 3) are connected by a jumper and a phase conductor is connected to them.

Contacts 4 and 5 are for connecting zero. The last terminal should be used for the grounding conductor. It should be noted that the socket is mounted at a distance of 15–30 cm from the floor.

Depending on the type of electrical outlet, the hob and oven can be connected according to one of three schemes. However, at home, only two are most often used. The first is intended for single-phase wiring at 220 V. It is this type that is most often used in apartments.

Contacts L1-L3 are connected to each other by jumpers and connected to the phase conductor. The ground wire is routed to the appropriate PE terminal. To connect zero, contacts N1 and N2 are used.

If it is necessary to connect to a three-phase 380 V network, then the neutral and grounding conductors are connected in the same way as a single-phase circuit. Phase wires are connected to contacts L1-L3 without using jumpers. The process of installing and connecting devices to the electrical network can be considered quite simple. However, before starting work, you should carefully study the technical documentation included in the delivery package.

If your friends gave you an oven and a hob with separate power supply, but forgot to tell you how to connect them correctly, then you can find out about it on this page.

Even children and bank employees know that you need an outlet to connect electrical appliances.

Some will argue that you can only connect the wires coming from the hob and oven by twisting them and clamping them with the terminals with the electrical cable coming from the panel, but we know that our electrical appliances deserve more. They are worthy of a quality socket that has a simple advantage over twisting. The advantage of this is the quick connection and high-quality contact.

What kind of outlet is needed to connect both the oven and the hob? The solution is simple, and it is reflected in the photo below.

Socket location

This is a paired socket. You can connect both a hob and an oven to it at the same time. The hob is connected to the large socket, and the oven is connected to the small socket. I will provide you with the most complete information on how to do this. All you have to do is follow what you read.

First, decide where the outlet will be located. In my opinion, if there is space behind the furniture to the right or left of the oven and hob, then it is most convenient to place the outlet there. There are no strict rules here. You only need to think about how it will be more convenient to plug in and remove plugs from sockets when necessary.

It would not be amiss to mention that this socket is overhead, that is, it is placed on the wall, and not recessed into it. I don’t know why, but until now all sockets for electric stoves are made of overhead ones. But don't let that bother you. As much furniture as I have seen, the socket fits perfectly into the distance between the wall and the cabinet. And if you are making custom-made furniture, then discuss the location of this outlet in advance.

There is a hole on the side of the socket for the cable, so you don't have to break it out with pliers, which in itself is nice. Therefore, the cable from the panel can be run directly along the wall, securing it with dowel clamps. Or if you want, drown it in the groove as in the photo.

Attaching the socket for the oven and panel

Once you disassemble the outlet, you will find a metal panel to attach the outlet to the wall. It must be secured first through the existing holes. Attach the panel to the wall, make markings and safely drill with a hammer drill. Dowels and nails with a diameter of 6 mm fit perfectly into the holes. If the wall is concrete, use a 6x40 dowel. If the wall is brick, then choose the length of the dowel based on the density of the wall.

It must be remembered that when a dowel is driven or twisted into a nail, it expands in its far part. Therefore, if when drilling you feel a void in the brick closer to the surface of the wall, take a long dowel. Choose the length so that he has something to anchor himself in. If, when drilling, you immediately feel the resistance of the brick, then a short dowel, as for concrete, will be sufficient.
But if you are not sure that the panel is firmly fastened, drill additional holes in it with a metal drill and repeat everything again.

Installation of wires for the socket

Now comes the most difficult and responsible task. We remember that we have two sockets in one housing. The wires are connected in parallel, as in conventional twin sockets on the walls.
But there is one nuance that is worth paying attention to. In ordinary sockets, we usually extend the wire to the next one. Otherwise, they are simply uncomfortable. But ordinary sockets use wires with a smaller cross-section, usually 2.5 mm2. Those who have experience connecting them know how difficult it can be to bend several wires and give them the desired position in the socket boxes.

And in the outlet for the oven and hob The cable is even thicker, and the room for maneuver is even less. The cable is at least 4, or even 6 mm2. It is very difficult to bend such a cable into a socket shape. And clamping two cables into terminals is even more problematic. The contact may not be reliable, and over time it will begin to spark and burn, which can lead to failure of electrical appliances, or even spontaneous combustion.

There is a simpler and more reliable solution. You need to pass the entire cable, without cutting it, through the terminals of the first socket to the terminals of the second. For the terminals of the first socket you only need to remove the insulation. This can be done carefully with a sharp blade.
First, accurately calculate the place where the cable passes through the terminals, make marks and safely remove the insulation. Once again, the cable is very stiff! For high-quality marking and fastening, you need to do the following.

Completely remove the terminals from the large outlet. To do this, you need to unscrew the screws and not lose them, and all the small parts associated with them. Pass the wires into the vacant spaces following the following recommendations. Upper and lower terminals for phase and zero. It makes no difference where you connect them. The main thing is that the phase and zero correspond to the wires of the plug, which will be described below. The terminal that is a little further and closer to the middle is for grounding. Everything is visible in the photo, see below.

Once you manage to thread the wires, install the platform on the panel already attached to the wall and secure it lightly with bolts. Now, having straightened the wires, you can make markings.

The remaining wire or cable, call it what you want, straighten it so that it is convenient to insert it into the next outlet, then cut off the excess and strip the ends of the insulation.

Now unfasten the platform from the panel on the wall. Pull the wires out a little. So much so that it is convenient for you to remove the insulation for the terminals of the first large socket. Remove the insulation and carefully push the terminals into place. I warn you that this is not a simple matter or even a jewelry one.

Unfortunately, domestic technologies suffer greatly from some “clumsiness”. That’s why I personally cursed a couple of times while installing these terminals. I am sure that many of you cannot avoid this either. But everything will work out, I'm sure.

The socket terminals for the oven are mounted as for a regular socket, grounding in the middle, phase and neutral at the edges. But given the rigidity of the wire, you will have to tinker a little.

If, after removing the insulation from the cable, you find a layer of oxidation on it, then sand the copper with very fine sandpaper for better contact. Very fine - this is sandpaper for sanding walls for painting, with a grit of 240 or so.

Clamp the wires into the terminals, install the platform in place and fix it to the mounting strip. Remember, or better yet, write down or photograph the location of the phase and zero in the terminals of the hob socket, this will be useful to you when installing the plug for it. You can use a marker to make the necessary marks directly on the white cover.
Now you can safely close everything with a lid and enjoy your work.

The wire to the hob terminals must be installed in accordance with the hob instructions, each one has its own. You need to buy a stranded wire, but the cross-section of the wire must correspond to the cross-section of the cable (or wire) going from the panel to the outlet. .

The main thing is that the phase and neutral wires in the plug match the phase and neutral wires in the socket.

For those who don’t know, the yellow-green wire corresponds to grounding, blue or blue and white to zero, all other colors to phase. If you understand everything, then you will not have any problems.

Even if all the wires are connected by color as you please, the main thing is that the phase and zero are in place, regardless of the color. The phase in the socket can be checked with a regular indicator screwdriver when turning on the machine in the panel. The phase in the terminals on the hob is indicated by a letter.

In the instructions for the hob, phase and zero are indicated as follows. L – phase. N – zero. Grounding is indicated by a special symbol that you will immediately recognize. The main thing here is not to make a mistake in matching the phase and zero when the plug contacts the socket. Everything else is simple.

An oven, unlike a hob, is almost always equipped with a plug, just like a TV, hair dryer, refrigerator and other electrical appliances. There is nothing you need to do here. There is no need to look for correspondences and coincidences in phase and zero. There is no need to disassemble the plug and look where the color of the wire is. Just like you don’t do this when you plug in other household electrical appliances.

By the way, about washing machines. It happens that some washing machines connected without an RCD or grounding “pinch” their owners with electric current. In this case, the following simple solution often helps. Unplug the plug from the outlet and plug it back in, reversing the “teeth” of the plug.

As for connecting the oven and hob to the outlet, that’s all I wanted to write. If you have any difficulties, ask in the comments. I hope that everything stated above will help you a lot.

Your repost will change the Internet :)

It is quite obvious that at present, low-functional electric stoves are being replaced by separate ovens and hobs. These two devices have improved cooking capabilities and are also aesthetically placed in the kitchen interior. And if integration into kitchen furniture does not cause any particular difficulties, then connecting to the electrical network requires special attention.

Modern ovens are quite powerful consumers of electricity. In the passport data for the oven you can see the designation P=3500 W, for the surface P=7200 W (the numbers for different models are different accordingly). Or, looking at the hob, you can see a similar sticker:

We are now interested in the inscription 7200W (which is also 7200 W / 7.2 kW / 7.2 kW).

What does this actually mean? Any device that runs on electricity is characterized by a number of parameters. In order for the electrical residential network of the apartment (house) to work correctly (not to knock out the circuit breakers, and as a result, the lights do not go out), the values ​​​​of the power consumption and current consumption of the electricity consumer (for us this is an oven and a hob) have values.

A little theory

Let's consider the power formula for the case when the voltage in the outlet is 220V, connecting these values:

P=I*U*cosφ

The letter P is power (in fact, in the passport or sticker on the panel of the oven or hob, the numbers before the letter W indicate power), I is the amount of current consumed (later it will become clear why this value is important), U is the network voltage (220 V), cosφ - power factor (equal to 0.95).

Thus, the current of the oven (at P=3.5 kW, according to formula 1) is 16.7A, the hob current (at P=7.2 kW, according to formula 1) is 34A.

The electrical network of the apartment (house) is protected from emergencies (such as short circuit, overload) using circuit breakers (automatic circuit breakers) and/or differential circuit breakers (definitely not RCDs).

When we go to the electricity meter to record readings, we see basically the same picture. These are automatic switches.

The size of the switches is characterized by the maximum operating current. Let's say, in new buildings they use automatic equipment 16A (16 amperes), 32A, 40A, an input automatic circuit is on average 50A.

Knowing all this, let's try to understand how to correctly connect to the power grid.

Let's consider two situations:

1. the apartment (house) is being renovated, and
2. repairs have already been completed.

1. So, repairs are being made. You should think about the fact that the kitchen will not have an electric stove, but rather an oven and a hob, at the stage of designing the residential electrical network. First of all, it is necessary to determine where these electrical appliances will be located in the kitchen furniture. After this step, .

It is important to understand that you should not install the socket directly behind the oven or hob - in addition to the fact that you can make a mistake in the size of the depth (when the plug is plugged into the socket, the cabinet may not fit), the principle that applies, for example, during warranty repairs will be violated - First disconnect the power, only then dismantle it.

Therefore, it is better to place sockets in the cabinets adjacent to the left/right:

The installation height of sockets must be at least 30 cm from the floor. There is another location:

In this case, there is inconvenience of use (access is limited by the depth of the kitchen furniture; if there are lower furniture facades, their dismantling is necessary; the likelihood of “not fitting” into the size and not safe - the sockets are too close to the floor; the tap hose has broken and there is chance of being under voltage 220V).

When making repairs, there is often a desire to use old electrical wiring. In the case of a hob, if the cable is old, at least copper 3 * 4 mm 2, you can think about using this cable. If the old cable is aluminum of the same cross-section or copper of a lower cross-section, it is definitely better to replace it with VVG-ng-3*6.

In the case of the oven, we have already calculated that its current consumption is 16A. This implies that the cabinet is fully loaded with work. If the cabinet is powered from the same circuit breaker with other consumers (lighting, other electrical appliances) that also consume electricity, a network overload may occur and the machine will trip (let’s say an electric kettle and an oven are connected to the same outlet group, the cabinet consumes 16A, the kettle consumes 6.5A - total current is 22.5A, therefore, a 16A circuit breaker will turn off both the kettle and the cabinet). It would be more reasonable to provide a separate line for the cabinet, laid with a VVG-ng-3*2.5 cable, with its own 16A circuit breaker.

There is a situation when the repair has already been completed and instead of the planned installation of an electric stove, a decision is made to use an oven and hob. As we have already determined above, the best solution is a separate line (group) for the cabinet and for the hob. Even after repairs, it is often possible to carry out kitchen furniture line to the switchboard (with the installation of a separate machine).

There are attempts to connect the cabinet together with the kitchen outlets.

But you need to be prepared for the situation with the electric kettle described above. The only thing that can be noted in favor of this method is that the actual power of electrical appliances may be slightly lower than the rated power, the load on the electrical cabinet is not always maximum (but do not forget about the holidays) - main principle- when the cabinet is working, nothing else is working or look for a combination: such a percentage of the cabinet's power - you can turn on something else.

Plugging an oven and a hob into the same outlet is not effective, but it is dangerous.

The fact is that the cross-sections of the supply wires of the cabinet and the surface are different. So the wire from the cabinet to the outlet should have a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2, and for the surface at least 4 mm 2. Circuit breaker for hob 25A, 32A (depending on specific model) is designed for sections from 4mm 2. So, if the oven malfunctions, the surface automatic will simply not work, and this is fraught with fire (we will not consider the case when all the insulation burns, a short circuit will still occur, and the automatic will work).

Pitfalls after unpacking

After purchasing an oven (as well as a hob), after removing it from the packaging, sometimes an unpleasant surprise occurs - it turns out that there is no power cable. But this is not an oversight by the manufacturer, but an opportunity for the buyer to choose how to connect the product to their electrical network. There are several of them. Either this will be a mechanical connection of the power cable of the oven (hob) with the provided housing wiring, or a socket-plug connection.

Let's try to choose the desired connection method (for this we assume that the power cable of the product is already installed, how to do this yourself will be indicated below).

First way lies in the fact that the power cable is connected to the provided wires (outputs from the walls for the oven, hob) directly. This means a mechanical connection (bolted connection, twisted wires, connection using a terminal block).

The listed types of connections are reliable. But if it is necessary to disconnect the product from the power supply, turn off the power (warranty case, cleaning, something fell needs to be removed), the services of an electrician will be required or time will be lost for disconnecting and connecting. What determines this method is the power of the equipment. After all, as we found out above, the power indicated in the passport indicates the current consumed. In the case where the rated current of the plug and socket is less than the current consumed by the electrical appliance, the connection should be made directly. So, many types of household ovens consume a current of no more than 16A, and hobs no more than 32A. The range of sockets and plugs produced in the post-Soviet space falls entirely within this range - therefore, there is no urgent need for this method, except in specific cases (technical or aesthetic necessity).

Second way- This is a connection using a plug and socket. It's convenient. This turns cooking devices into ordinary household appliances. We turn on the plug - it is energized, if you need to turn it off - remove the plug from the socket. It must be remembered that all switching on or off must be done in the “OFF” or “OFF” mode.

How to connect the power cable yourself

So, we have chosen a way to connect our primary kitchen devices. But our power cables are connected conditionally. Let's find out how to do it for real. Traditionally, we will consider separately the oven and hob.

For oven(with a power of no more than 3.5 kW, P = 3.5 kW) you need to purchase a piece of PVS 3*2.5 cable and a regular 16A household plug. The cable length must be such that after connection the cable is not strained. When connecting to a plug (let's agree that the cable has brown, blue and yellow wires), it is important to connect the yellow (yellow-green) wire to the ground terminal. The order of connecting phase and zero is as follows: the brown wire is the phase, the blue wire is zero. In a socket, the phase can be determined using a phase indicator (any household appliance does not respond to the phase-zero order - if the TV plug is inserted opposite to the current position, the TV will still work, however, it will be better to follow the operating conditions of this electrical appliance). Next, remove the small plastic cover at the cable connection point.

There we will see the connection for each cable core.

The connection is made as follows: L is phase, N is zero, the earth sign is yellow (yellow-green are the colors of earth from an electrical point of view) according to the colors of the cores. Very important: the colors of the wire cores in the plug with a ground-phase-zero combination must correspond to a similar combination in the connected device. If the phase in the plug is the brown wire of the cable, then in the oven it is the brown wire. Exactly the same with zero and earth - purely by color.

Cooking surface. As a rule, hob models are universal. This means connecting to both 220V and 380V. The transition to both one and the other voltage is realized by installing the appropriate jumpers. On most hobs, at the power cable connection point (conveniently accessible plastic cover) you can see a similar connection diagram:

In the case of an apartment where the allocated voltage is 220V, the output is obvious (in the case of a private house, with a allocated 380V, electricians adapt the power output to the hob to 220V).

In order for the hob to operate on 220 V, jumpers must be installed according to line 3 of the connection diagram. For a voltage of 380V, select line 1. In practice it might look like this:

As for the power cable, it is better to use PVS 3*6 (except for the case when the cable in the socket has a smaller cross-section - and this is 3*4mm 2). In any case, it is recommended to adhere to the principle - the cross-section of the power cable cannot be less than the cross-section of the cable in the socket (the wire protruding from the wall to connect the hob). More can. As mentioned above, the hob is a large consumer of electricity. With a power of 7.3 kW (P=7.3kW), it is necessary to install a socket and plug designed for a current of 32A.

The combination of colors of cable cores with ground, phase and zero is completely similar to the case of an oven.

When connecting the power cables of the oven and hob, the brand of PVA cable was indicated. PVA is a flexible multi-core power cable in PVC insulation. But with a permanent connection to an electrical wiring cable (and this is in most cases a VVG-ng cable with monolithic inflexible cores), it would be more effective to use a cable of a similar brand. From the point of view of ease of connection, it is possible. From an operational point of view, we are still dealing with household appliances, and they have some mobility. A monolithic cable is designed to be stationary; there is a possibility of core breakage, but not great. The probability of breakage of the connection points inside the device is already higher. Therefore, multicore cable (MCC) is more convenient in this case.

When performing work on electrical equipment, strictly follow safety precautions against electric shock.

In our Instagram And Odnoklassniki many interesting ideas! Subscribe :)

A built-in hob is an almost mandatory attribute of a modern kitchen. IN recent years Most consumers prefer electric ovens, since they are ahead of gas equipment in many characteristics.

A separate outlet for the hob and oven and a dedicated line ensure the functioning of these powerful electricity consumers.

Wiring Requirements

Particular attention should be paid to the quality of electrical wiring, on which the safety and correct functioning of the entire system depend.

The following factors are taken into account:

1. The oven and hob are connected via grounding. The plug or socket for the oven must have 3 or 5 contacts (in the first case for a 220 Volt network, in the second - for 380 Volts). In the tasks of the old building, this condition was not always adhered to. However, modern requirements are different, so a new cable will be required.
2. Electrical wiring is connected to the distribution box only through an RCD (residual current device).
3. Low-power equipment (up to 2.5 kilowatts) is connected to the existing electrical network (if it meets modern requirements). To connect powerful equipment you will need a dedicated line.
4. The optimal cable cross-section is 6 square millimeters. A wire with this cross-section will withstand a long-term load of 10 kilowatts. The recommended protection class for the machine is C32. If the panel power does not exceed 8 kilowatts, a cable with a cross-section of 4 millimeters and a circuit breaker with protection class C25 will be sufficient.
5. The correct choice of cable is VVGng or NYM. When purchasing a cable, take into account the diameter of the conductor. For a wire with a cross-section of 4 millimeters, the diameter will be 2.26 millimeters, and for a 6 mm conductor - 2.76 millimeters.
6. The data for the residual current device is one point higher than the rating of the circuit breaker. For a 32 Ampere device you will need a 40 Ampere RCD.

Pay attention! Grounding an electrical household device is an essential condition for ensuring safety.

Cabinet location

Before connecting the oven, you need to prepare a place for it. Place the cabinet in a special niche in the furniture.

When preparing the site, the following parameters are observed:

1. Avoid distortions of the surface on which the equipment will be installed. If the cabinet is installed unevenly, improper heat distribution inside the cabinet cannot be avoided. As a result, the equipment will break down.
2. Provide gaps between the surface of the furniture and the oven. This is necessary to avoid excessive heating of the kitchen unit. The recommended distance from the furniture walls to the oven is 5 centimeters. The distance between the bottom of the niche and the base of the cabinet is from 8 to 10 centimeters, and between the wall and the back cover is at least 4 centimeters.

Cable and circuit breaker

Since hobs and ovens are large consumers of electricity (their power starts at 3 kilowatts), you will need a dedicated cable to power them.

The optimal choice is a cable with three cores (necessarily with a green-yellow ground wire). The cable cross-section is selected according to the rating of the oven.

If the load is from 3 to 3.5 kilowatts, you will need a cable with a cross-section of 2.5 millimeters. The socket is needed for 16 Amps, and the circuit breaker is needed for 25 Amps. If power electric stove exceeds 3.5 kilowatts, the cable cross-section is 4 millimeters, and the socket is chosen for 32 Amperes.

Hob fork

To supply electricity to the hob, a three-core copper cable is used. If you need 380 volts, you will need a cable with five cores. The cable cross-section is selected based on the existing load and according to calculations of the operating current. However, the cross-section should not be less than 4 square millimeters. The machine should be rated at 32 Amperes, and if a 6 mm cable is used, the machine should be rated at 40 Amps.

The peculiarity of the hob is extremely fast heating. This circumstance is caused by the high power of the device, which can reach 7 kilowatts.

The plug is connected as follows:

1. Buy a 220 Volt power plug (alternating voltage).
2. Remove the protective panel. There are 6 pins on the inside of the plug that are used for connection.
3. Terminals numbered 1, 2 and 3 are used to connect the phase conductor (L). These terminals are connected with a jumper.
4. Contacts numbered four and five are used to connect zero (N).
5. The sixth terminal is intended for grounding.

Pay attention! If the phase conductor is connected incorrectly, the protective device (RCD) or differential circuit breaker will trip.

Hob connectors

Sockets for 220 Volt hobs are characterized by a special location and shape of the holes for the plugs. Switching is carried out in such a way as to avoid incorrect connection of the phase and protective conductor.

380 Volt sockets are stationary switching devices with five sockets. These sockets are suitable for three-phase loads. There is a neutral wire and grounding.

Before buying such a power socket, you need to make sure that the plug fits the contact holes: it can be easily inserted into the connectors. If only a small amount of force is required, this will not deform the conductive pins.

Connection instructions:

1. Turn off the current supply to the power cable.
2. We test the presence/absence of voltage in conductive elements with an indicator.
3. We connect different phase wires to contacts 1 to 3. We connect the conductors independently of each other.
4. We connect zero to the contact connector.
5. We connect the grounding to the desired terminal, which is indicated by a six or a sign with a tree pattern.

Installation location

An important factor is the location of the outlet. By European standards sockets are installed 15 centimeters from the floor.

However, there is no need to follow this rule literally: the distance from the floor can vary between 15 and 30 centimeters. We must proceed from the existing conditions and assigned tasks.

Connection diagrams

Connect the hob to the outlet in accordance with one of three schemes.

Single-phase circuit for 220 Volts

This option is common in apartment settings. The scheme is implemented as follows:

1. We connect the phase wire (L) to terminals L-1, L-2, L-3. We place a pair of copper jumpers between the terminals.
2. We connect the neutral wire (N) to terminals N-1 and N-2.
3. We direct the protective conductor PE to the appropriate terminal.

The terminals are accessible through the rear panel. To do this, unscrew the screws.

Three-phase circuit 380 V

This is the second most common scheme. Most often used in a private home.

We connect like this:

1. We connect phases A, B, C to terminals L-1, L-2, L-3.
2. We connect terminals N-1 and N-2, PE in the same way as in a single-phase circuit.

Jumpers are not needed in a three-phase circuit.

Two-phase circuit at 380 Volts

Two-phase circuits are rare, but they do occur. In such cases, for example, A and C may be present, but B absent.

The hob is connected to a 380 Volt network as follows:

1. We install a jumper on L-1 and L-2 and connect phase A.
2. On L-3 we set phase C.
3. All other actions are carried out in the same way as in other variants of the schemes.

Connecting a panel without a plug

An outlet that extends a few centimeters from the wall does not always suit the owners of the room. The solution is to hide the protruding elements of the outlet.

You can do this in one of two ways:

1. Using GML sleeves (tinned copper sleeves).
2. Using the KlK-5S mounting box.

We immediately decide on the conductors. On some models, an already connected four-wire wire is removed from the panel. However, in many cases there are only 3 wires in the socket box. Such surfaces are designed for both a single-phase 220-volt connection and a two-phase 380-volt connection. Half of the burners will be powered from one phase, and the other half from the second phase.

There is a misconception that the second phase is only needed to power the control. In fact, the power is equally distributed over both one and the second phase. To connect to 220 Volts, you need to insulate one of the wires.

It remains to connect the neutral (blue conductor), the ground wire (yellow-green) and the phase (black or brown wire). If desired, connect two phases into one through a tip.

Pay attention! Some Bosch hobs with a permanent cable come with a tip by default.

Sometimes there is equipment with a five-core cable. Such surfaces are characterized by high power (more than 7 kilowatts) and are designed for 380 Volts. To connect the panel to a 220-volt network, you need to connect 2 wires in pairs. For example, black and brown wires are sent to phase, and blue and gray conductors are sent to zero. The earth (green-yellow color) will remain single.

Pay attention! Specified connection does not entirely comply with the rules, since the protective conductor PE must have the same cross-section as the phase conductors. In the described case, the protective conductor will be twice as thin.

Common mistakes

Common problem: the panel is connected, but turns on and off spontaneously. The cause of this behavior is not necessarily due to incorrect installation.

The problem is caused by a variety of factors: child lock is turned on, water gets on the touch parts of the equipment, or accidentally pressing the wrong buttons. Some models are equipped with a cookware recognition function, and until there is a pot or pan on the panel, the stove will not heat up.

Another common problem: only two of the four available burners are functioning. Burners that are not working show residual heat (indicated by the letter H). The situation is caused by blocking that occurs when three-phase models are connected single-phase. The blocking is done programmatically.

Therefore, before tampering with the connection terminal block, it is recommended to study the documentation for the equipment in advance.