There are enough on the market today a large number of factory electric scooters and you can choose for every taste and budget.

But any product, as you know, is designed for the average buyer.

One is foldable and lightweight, but it drives slowly and doesn't start from a standstill.

The second one starts and accelerates perfectly, but is too heavy.

What to do if you want a scooter exactly for your needs?

There are two options - either take the factory one and modify it, or assemble the device yourself from scratch.

Both options have the right to life and which way to go is the personal choice of everyone.

I will try to describe how the set of elements for self-assembly is completed.

The main element of the assembled scooter is the “base”.

Bases of scooters are conditionally divided into subspecies:

Micro - with wheels up to 8 inches,

Mini - wheels 8-10 inches,

Midi - 12-16 inch,

Maxi - from 20 inches and more.

Scooters with wide, non-bicycle tires stand a little apart. Reno, Evo, Scruzer and their clones are also considered scooters, although in terms of engine power and appearance they are clearly closer to scooters and scooters.

So the base, it is from it that you should start dancing.

The final driving performance of the electric scooter depends on the choice of base.

What should you pay attention to first of all?

The dimension of the wheels, cast or inflatable, the presence of a suspension, a place for a convenient location of the battery and the width of the dropouts for installing a motor wheel.

If your city has mirror asphalt that is washed with shampoo every evening, then 5.5 inches is fine for you.

If the tiles and cracks in the asphalt - 8 inches is the minimum and pneumatics is highly desirable.

If your asphalt recent years 10 did not know the repair - do not even look below 12 inches.

Do you want to drive at a speed of 40 with a tail and not be afraid to fly head over heels in an unexpected hole? From 16 inches and above.

Suspension reduces some of the bumps on small wheels, but the rule "a wheel can run over an obstacle no more than half its diameter" will not go anywhere.

Battery location. Options - in the deck, in the steering rack, on the steering wheel in a bag or case, on the trunk, in a backpack.

Some scooters have a cavity in the deck that allows it to be used to pack battery packs.

Pros: low center of gravity appearance. Cons - it may be necessary to additionally protect the battery from impacts on the ledges of the roadway.

A battery can be placed in the steering rack if it consists of several pipes and there is free space between them. Pros - the battery does not significantly affect the weight distribution of the scooter; in the manufacture of the cladding, the scooter is not afraid of falls. Cons - the complexity of the work.

Also, some scooters have bottle mounts on the steering column, where you can screw a case or battery in a “bottle”. Pros - ease of installation, ease of removal. Cons - interferes with driving, when falling, you can break off the fasteners.

On the steering wheel in the case, you can place the battery. Pros - ease of installation, ease of removal. Cons - deterioration in weight distribution, more tangible blows to the front wheel. If dropped, there is a chance of breaking the case.

On the steering wheel in the bag, as a rule, batteries are made for small and folding scooters. The bag for photographic equipment is sufficient for a small battery and does not attract attention. Pros - ease of installation, Cons - the risk of damage to the battery when dropped.

The battery on the rear rack is a popular solution for the first e-bikes. For scooters, it is of little relevance, due to the lack of a trunk on most of them. Pros - ease of installation, ease of removal. Cons - change in weight distribution, tangible blows to the rear wheel.

It is also possible to ride with a battery in a backpack and a wire with a connector for the scooter itself. Pros - the ability to insulate the battery for use in winter period. Facilitation of the scooter, due to which the maneuverability and aptitude for active riding with jumps are significantly increased. Cons - diseases of the spine from a constant load (depends on the weight of the battery), a change in weight distribution to the side of the motor-wheel.

Dropout width.

This is the distance between the seats in the front or rear fork of the scooter.

For micro and mini models, the standard motor-wheels are 45 or 65 mm. For more - 100 mm.

Bicycle micros for the front wheel just also have a standard of 100mm.

There are MK 110, with a brake disc, but less often.

135mm is already a bicycle size of the rear wheel, for gears on one side.

The electrical part of the electric scooter is quite simple, 4 points - battery, controller, motor and controls.

Previously, lead batteries were installed, heavy, with a low resource of 300-400 cycles and low charge-discharge currents.

Modern electric scooters run on varieties of lithium batteries - lithium ion, lithium polymer, lithium iron phosphate.

Let's take a look at the difference between them.

Lithium-polymer (LiPo) batteries have a favorable cost, high charge and discharge currents, and a resource of 500-800 cycles.

Lithium-ion (LiIon) - 500-1000 cycles, light weight, temperature dependent.

In general, ions have three subspecies, depending on the type of chemistry. Some have higher capacitance, but more internal resistance, others are high-current, but do not shine with capacity.

They require protection from mechanical damage when used on scooters. There have been cases of ignition of ions from impacts when falling.

Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4) - About twice as heavy as ions, more expensive. They give and receive high currents, the resource is 2000 cycles.

Not flammable, quite resistant to mechanical deformations. Can be discharged at sub-zero temperatures.

The scooter wheel drive from an external motor with a belt or chain is still found, but it is already clearly losing ground to the motor-wheels.

motor wheel the best choice motor for a self-assembled electric scooter.

They come in two types - geared and direct drive. We will analyze the difference, pros and cons of each type.

Gear mk.

Lighter than micro direct drive of the same power, better efficiency at low speeds. Excellent rolling, due to the presence of a freewheel, which is very useful when using a foot-drawn scooter. There are wearing parts - gears, someday they will require replacement. Noise - the gearbox howls during operation. The impossibility of regenerative braking. Slightly better forcing potential, due to higher rotational speeds.

Direct drive (DD).

Heavier than gearboxes, reeling is worse due to the toothing effect. There are no wearing parts except bearings in such microns. Quiet, and when using a sine controller, they can be completely silent. They have the ability to use regenerative braking. They justify themselves when using the scooter in areas with large elevation changes and as a means of saving brake pads. When installing MK on mini and micro scooters, it happens that recuperation is the only adequate brake on board.

Controller.

The controller is the brains of our scooter, its choice will depend on the traction in the hills, the way of starting and the dynamics of acceleration. The choice of the controller must be made according to the parameters of the motor. For example, the wheel motor has the following parameters: 48V 350W, what does this mean?

The rated voltage of the motor-wheel is 48 volts. No one forbids applying less to it, but at the same time its power will be lower. No one forbids applying more to it, but at the same time it is important not to overheat the micron with the pumped power.

This is the rated power of this mk. As practice shows, the rated power can be boosted by 1.5-2 times for DD and 2-2.5 for gearboxes. To select a controller, let's convert watts to amps - 350/48 = 7.3 amps. Of course, it will go at 7.3 amperes, but rather sadly, so we boost it to 12-15 amperes for direct drive and 15-18 for the gearbox. For these currents, we will need to look for a controller for such a microcontroller.

Governing bodies.

1 - power switch.

The power supply is usually connected directly to the controller and does not break when idle. The power switch turns off the low-current part of the controller that supplies voltage to the control circuit. Since the currents there are small, you can use almost any suitable latching button.

2 - Gazulka.

It is a motorcycle-type throttle, or half or throttle trigger. I strongly recommend choosing the trigger, as it is easy to release in an emergency, and a person instinctively grabs the handle tighter to hold on. It has at least three wires - plus 5 volts, ground and output signal.

3 - Brake levers.

Electric scooters are equipped with brake levers with built-in limit switches to turn off the motor when the brake is pressed. If the controller has an activated regenerative braking mode, it will also turn on when any brake lever is pressed. There are built-in buttons, reed switches and hall sensors. Connection - ground, output signal. For hall sensors, + 5 volts is additionally connected. Sometimes, in order not to change the standard handles, separate modules with reed switches or hall sensors are installed. They are attached to a cable, or to the body of the handles.

So we figured out the general electrical device.

Consider assembly examples.

In this project, the Yedoo Ox base was used,

battery cells lithium iron phosphate

and micro direct drive, with a diameter of 12 inches.

The battery is divided into two packs and placed in the deck and in the steering rack.

The controller is fixed under the steering rack, where it does not interfere and is always blown by air flow.

The drive is rear, this is a convenient solution for climbing hills. The battery is protected from below by a 4mm alucobond plate.

The final characteristics of the scooter:

Weight 18.5 kg.

Battery 16S3P, 52 volts 9 amp-hours.

Instead of a preface

Folding mini-scooters have rolled into our lives like lightning. Outwardly, they are not much different from each other. The main difference is in the names. For example, the foreigner "Scooter", the Russian "Vzhik" and "Samogon" and so on.

The modern scooter is a product of interspecific hybridization of K. F. Drez's classic running machine - a scooter (the design scheme is taken from it), a skateboard (support platform) and roller skates (polyurethane rollers).

The development of the scooter continues, so it is quite possible that very unusual samples will appear. Moreover, while riding a scooter with a push, muscular energy is realized most efficiently, more muscles are involved than when riding a bicycle.

If a folding purchased mini-scooter is a sports and entertainment item, then the Summer Resident scooter, which I want to talk about here, is a household item.

Idea development

Pushing with my hands a handcart on wheels - the main means of small-scale transport mechanization of the era of transition from developed socialism to a market economy, I once realized that there was clearly not enough support platform with a wheel. After all, putting one foot on such a platform and pushing off the road with the other, one could roll on a cart, like on a scooter.

However, an attempt to adapt a platform with rollers from a skateboard to a cargo trolley was not entirely successful due to the poor quality of the plain bearings of the wheels of the cargo trolley, and the maneuverability of the crew left much to be desired. And the family did not allow me to completely ruin my son's skateboard.

For this reason, it was necessary to develop utility scooter. I don't claim to be a novelty idea. At one time, engineer S. S. Lundovsky built a passenger-and-freight scooter, but in his design the trunk platform, taken from a road bike, was raised too high, and the structure itself, assembled on the basis of a children's bike, did not have sufficient strength.

The main material for the manufacture of the proposed below homemade scooter(Fig. 1) steel tubular car trunk and inflatable wheels from a children's bicycle measuring 12.5 "x2.25" (205x56 mm).

The main elements of a homemade scooter

front fork

For the front fork - steering column, I picked up steel pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, although pipes with a diameter of 22 mm would have been better. Slots are made at the ends of the flattened tubes of the fork to install and secure the axle of the front wheel (Fig. 2).

The part (bridge) that unites the feathers into a fork is made of a channel with a shelf width of 75 mm and a length of 120 mm, bent from a steel sheet 3 mm thick. Two holes with a diameter of 20 mm are drilled in the channel at a distance of 90 mm from each other to install the fork-column pipes in them (Fig. 3). These pipes are welded to the bridge with circumferential seams. Between the holes for the pipes of the fork-column in the shelves of the bridge, a hole with a diameter of 22 mm is drilled for the rotary axis - a pipe section 1/2". thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 10 mm.

The bearing assembly of the steering column is made of a 3/4" plumbing tee (see Fig. 3). As already mentioned, the rotary axis is a 1/2" pipe section with threads at the ends. Axial clearances in the bearing assembly are eliminated using brass washers, which, by the way, reduce friction in the hinge.

The scooter frame consists of three parts (Fig. 4). Before assembling it, it is advisable to draw on a sheet of plywood general form full size scooter. If a scooter is made for itself, then its dimensions are naturally adjusted to fit its dimensions. The experience of S. S. Lundovsky shows that a clearance (clearance) of 30 mm is quite sufficient for a scooter.

The S-shaped part of the frame is bent out of a 3/4 "pipe using a pipe bender, which is always in the workshop at the housing office. A 3/4" thread is cut at one end of the pipe to connect to a tee. To prevent self-unscrewing, the threaded connection of the tee with the frame pipe is locked by installing a cotter pin in a hole drilled in it (connection) (see Fig. 3).

The back of the frame is a front fork from a road bike. The fork is inserted into the pipe of the front S-shaped part, and the joint is welded with an annular seam. A 15x15 mm angle bar welded between the stays reinforces the fork. Subsequently, a support platform (footboard) and a rear wing-mudguard are attached to it.

The footboard is sawn out of plywood 10 ... 12 mm thick and fastened with two M6 screws (with a conical head) to the jumper and one screw in the fork (see Fig. 1). Corrugated rubber is glued to the footboard or nailed with small nails, for example, from an old rug.

When transporting a scooter on public transport, the steering column axle is removed and the frame is disconnected from the front fork. I note that the front fork with a wheel can be used autonomously, like a regular unicycle cargo trolley.

Additional scooter equipment

For better stability of the scooter, its trunk should provide a low position of the center of gravity of the load. The heaviest parts of the load are placed on the sides of the trunk "in a shift."

Scooter equipment necessarily includes good splash guards and retroreflective reflectors - reflectors. Front - white color, on the sides (on wheels) - yellow, and behind - red. The more reflectors installed, the better. Plastic handles from ski poles or from the steering wheel of a bicycle are put on the ends of the steering tubes. It is useful to equip the scooter with a "Matchish" horn and a brake with a drive to the rear wheel.

Having provided the possibility of installing a seat on the trunk for a small passenger, for example, from a stroller, where the seat is equipped with footrests, we turn the scooter into a self-rickshaw. If the seat does not have side rails in its front part, it is necessary, as on a motorcycle, to install a ring or a handle for which the passenger will hold his hands while driving. The backrest for the passenger will be based on a ring welded to the steering tubes.

An easily removable fairing made of transparent film or Bologna fabric with a transparent window, mounted on a flexible frame made of thin-walled pipes, will protect the passenger from adverse climatic factors, providing the traveler with more comfortable conditions. When riding with a passenger, the load is placed behind the rudder tubes, attached to the ring like a pack (Fig. 5).

The Taming of the Shrew

Learning to ride a scooter begins on a flat asphalt platform. The main attention is paid to working out a long and strong, but not sharp push with the foot, and they also try to master the coasting movement, by inertia. Keep in mind that the steering wheel must remain completely still when coasting, otherwise the resistance to movement increases and the speed of the scooter drops.

Past and thoughts

The design of a home-made scooter presented here is rather a working prototype, the shortcomings of which are obvious. First of all, the diameter of the rear wheel is excessively large, which increases the dimensions of the roller. Excessive cross-country ability, generally speaking, is useless, since on difficult sections of the road it is better to dismount and overcome them, rolling the carriage with luggage with your hands.

Maybe the best option will be the installation of a rear wheel with a reduced diameter, for example, from the Sibiryak roller ski. As a front wheel, it is probably advisable to use a wheel with a tubeless tire from the Druzhok bicycle, as it is not afraid of punctures.

It should be noted that scooters with an internal combustion engine with a working volume of 28 “cubes” are now extremely popular in the West. If you are lucky enough to get a small-sized motor from a Mac Cullog chainsaw, then you can easily make a similar projectile by equipping the roller with an engine.

A powerful battery... And an impressive cost. Yes, there are economy options, but is it possible to spend even less? And if so, how to make an electric scooter with your own hands?

Where to begin?

Decide on the basis on which you will make your iron horse. There are three good, tried and tested options:

• From a screwdriver. Drills and screwdrivers are convenient in that the battery is very easily pulled out of them for recharging. In addition, most models have several speeds, which is also quite a lot;
• From hoverboard. Very good in terms of battery connection and control, but quite expensive;
• Out of the engine cooling radiator. Perhaps the most difficult option from the point of view of implementation, but the motor is quite powerful and almost free (you can find a suitable engine at any auto parsing).

If you do not have much experience with such tasks, we recommend making an electric scooter with your own hands from a screwdriver.

Broadcast

Have you chosen an engine? Now it is important to decide how you will transfer torque from it to the wheels. The following transfer options are available:

• Chain;
• Friction nozzle;
• two gears;
• Hard transmission.

Again: if there is not much experience, put the chain. The option is controversial, because the chain can fly off and, but in implementation it will be the easiest way.

wheels

Which wheel will drive: rear or front? If you choose the rear, it will be easier with the installation, if the front, the scooter will be better controlled. We advise you to still get confused with connecting the front wheel, it's worth it. The wheels themselves can be taken the most ordinary, with plastic discs. Garden cart wheels work well.

Frame

The frame is made from ordinary steel pipes. Profiled steel with a thickness of 2.5 millimeters will be quite enough for a do-it-yourself electric scooter to withstand a load of up to 100 kilograms.

IMPORTANT: If you are making an electric scooter not completely from scratch, but on the basis of a conventional - not motorized - scooter, you will not have any issues with the frame and wheels. Just choose from durable and stable models: very elegant ones may not be ready for serious loads.

Battery

Do not take heavy lead batteries! You most likely won't be able to tuck them neatly under the deck and the battery will just break the whole balance of your scooter. If you do it on the basis of a screwdriver, there are no questions - use your own battery - if not, look at for electric helicopters, the same drills and similar equipment.

Also you will need

• wires;
• Button or toggle switch;
• Plastic box for battery;
• Fasteners (as a rule, these are bolts and nuts).

It is not necessary to use welding or similar technically complex fastening methods.

How to make an electric scooter with your own hands?

The best choice would be to watch a video on YouTube before starting work. Look specifically for the assembly of the scooter based on the engine you have chosen and with the gear you have chosen - there are videos for almost all existing options.

And, in any case, you will need some experience in working with your hands. Ideal if you have already worked with electrics and metal. If there is no experience, we strongly recommend finding an assembly partner or at least a consultant - a person who can look at your idea and project, give their comments on it.

If you do everything carefully, a do-it-yourself electric scooter will cost only 5-7 thousand rubles, which means you can save a lot. Good luck with the build!

Scooters appeared in the 1920s. Initially they were just children's toys, but now they have become a very common mode of transport all over the world - from the simplest variety, pushed by the foot, to numerous types of scooters with motors. Just like the guys in the 1920s, you can build a simple wooden scooter. Here's how to do it.

To make a scooter you need

• Workbench or goats for sawing
• Fixed square for carpentry
• Electric drill with drills with a diameter of 0.6 cm and 13 mm.
• Two adjustable wrenches
• Tape measure
• crosshead screwdriver
• Pencil
• sharp saw
• Hammer
• Machined for rails, handle and handle bar 3.8 cm x 5.1 cm
• processed pine for connecting neck 5.1 cm x 7.6 cm
• for 1.9 cm thick footboard
• Four bolts with ring: two bolts 0.6 cm thick, 5.1 cm long, with a ring hole diameter of 1.6 cm and two bolts 0.6 cm thick, 7.6 cm long, with a ring hole diameter of 1.6 cm [J]
• Four 0.6 cm thick, 4.4 cm long carriage bolts with washers and nuts for each
• Two hex head bolts 0.6 cm thick, 7 cm long, with nuts for each
• Six 0.6 cm thick carriage bolts, 4.4 cm long, with washers and nuts for each
• Two 1.3 cm thick, 12.7 cm long carriage bolts with washers and nuts for each
• One 1.3 cm thick, 15.2 cm long hex bolt with two nuts (reversed) and four washers. It's a pain for the front axle
• One 1.3 cm thick, 15.2 cm long hex bolt with two nuts (reversed) and four washers. This is a rear axle bolt.
• One carriage bolt 1.3 cm thick, 20.3 long, with two nuts (reversed). This bolt is inserted into the holes of the o-ring bolts and acts as the pivot of the swivel joint.

We will build a scooter like this

1. Measure, drank, drilled holes and spread out: a) Saw off pieces of wood in accordance with the indicated dimensions. b) Carefully measure and mark the centers of the holes to be drilled. c) Then drill holes. Note that they are two different diameters. The holes for the axle bolts and the bolts that attach [A] to the connecting neck [C] are 1.3 cm in diameter. All other holes are 0.6 cm in diameter. d) Lay out all the parts on the floor.
2. Assemble the handle of the scooter: Attach the two corner brackets [I] with bolts to the top of the steering column [E]. Then bolt the handle [F] back in place.
3. Assemble the front wheels of the scooter: Assemble the front wheels using a 1.3 cm bolt as the wheel axle. Place a washer on each side of each wheel. After checking that the assembled axle is not overtightened to allow the wheels to turn freely, tighten the two nuts opposite each other to make a "locknut". This will help ensure that the assembled axle does not vibrate during constant movement. Place the two o-ring bolts into the corresponding holes in the steering column [E].
4. Assemble the platform frame: Attach two longitudinal bars [A] to the connecting neck [C]. Place the remaining two eyebolts into the corresponding holes in the neck [C].
5. Attach the deck: Attach the deck [D] to the two stringers [A] with six carriage bolts.
6. Attach the steering: Align the rings of bolts in the connecting neck [C] with the rings of the steering rack bolts [E]. Slide a carriage bolt through the eye bolt holes, which will act as the kingpin - the pivot pin of the swivel joint. Check that the swivel is free to turn and then tighten the two nuts on the carriage bolt to make a "locknut". This will ensure that the rod does not fall out and vibrate with constant movement.
7. Install the connecting neck: Attach the angle bracket to the connecting neck [C] and deck [D] with screws. This is done to strengthen the structure.
8. Assemble the rear wheels of the scooter: Assemble the rear wheels in the same way as the front wheels in step 3. Check that there is a washer on each side of the wheel and that the wheels turn freely before tightening the “locknut” on the end of the bolt.
9. Add a Brake: Screw the T-Loop to the back of the deck [D].

Safety when using a homemade scooter

Smooth paved surfaces work best; avoid uneven, wet, rocky surfaces with bumps. Stay away from traffic!

The dream of every boy is to ride a scooter. However, modern girls are not averse to a ride. But, now a more desirable replacement has appeared for an ordinary scooter - a scooter with a motor. And not only a child, but also an adult can ride on it with a “breeze”.

For the smallest children (4-7 years old) you can buy an inexpensive scooter "Hummingbird" which is available in blue and red.

Its top speed is low. 10 km/h, but for a kid, riding such a scooter is a real rally. You can drive on one charge 4 km. Will withstand the folding design of the child weighing up to 40 kg. The scooter itself weighs only 8.2 kg, i.e. a child can easily lift it to the floor on their own. A wide footrest is 580x130 mm, the size of the wheels with tires in diameter is 137 mm, which indicates the reliability and safety of the vehicle. Wheels on bearings and they are made of durable plastic. Throttle for speed control, solid tires, drum rear brake lead-acid maintenance-free battery that takes up to 8 hours to fully charge, motor 120W are the main characteristics of the model. A dream, not a scooter!

Where to buy a Hummingbird scooter and its cost?

The cost of this miracle toy and at the same time a personal vehicle only 69 dollars . You can buy a scooter at e-bike.com.ua .

Small costs and imagination will help to make a scooter from a conventional cordless drill

In the trading network today, the choice of electric scooters is huge, but you can easily make an electric scooter from a battery drill, well, you still have to disassemble grinder. Craftsmen who already ride scooters with a motor who made them with their own hands say that a motor that develops up to 550 rpm, quite enough for driving on city streets.

The battery is also suitable from a drill - 14.4 V

The frame can be made from ordinary profile steel pipe(wall thickness 2.5mm) - it will withstand weight in 100 kg. Or use a frame from a regular scooter. In a bike shop, you need to purchase rubber handles, a steering wheel mount, a thrust bearing, designed for a load of 300 kg. To transfer rotation to the wheel, there are several options: using a chain, two gears, a friction nozzle, using a rigid gear and a motor-wheel. But, the last option is practically impossible to implement, because this important part must be ordered in China.

Immediately you need to decide which of the wheels will rotate? To connect the generator, you will also need an overrunning clutch (it is also easy to buy), bearings, wheels. The battery will fit lithium polymer(11.1V 2.2Ah). With a little conjuration over all this, you can get a good vehicle.

How much does it cost to make an electric scooter from a drill?

The cost of making an electric scooter with your own hands is about five thousand rubles, against the cost of construction in the trading network cost 14-140 thousand rubles.