One of the most important indicators of the quality of modern buildings is their energy efficiency, i.e. the ability to retain heat in the interior through the use of the most stable materials in terms of thermal conductivity. At the same time, a simple thickening of the walls, unfortunately, does not help: according to modern standards, even in the Moscow region, which is not distinguished by prolonged extreme temperatures in the cold season, the thickness of a solid brick wall should be more than two meters.

Obviously, such a solution is not suitable in many respects, ranging from increased consumption of building materials to creating unacceptably high loads on the foundation. Therefore, the way out in this situation is seen in the use of more advanced construction technologies.

Well brickwork

To reduce the thermal conductivity of walls built using bricks, the so-called well (or well) masonry is often used. The essence of this construction technique is that only the inner and outer parts of the wall are made of bricks to a certain thickness, and the cavity (well) formed between them is filled with heat-insulating material.

As a filler, various types of lightweight concrete, bulk materials or insulation boards made of expanded polystyrene or mineral wool can be used.

To achieve the required strength, parallel walls are connected by transverse bridges (diaphragms). Usually they are made half a brick thick at a distance of 2-4 bricks from each other. Every five or six rows, the masonry of the vertical diaphragm is reinforced with welded mesh. At the lower level of the ceiling and under the window lintels (for two rows), horizontal stiffening ribs are arranged from a reinforcing mesh wound into the outer and inner surfaces of the walls and protected by a mortar layer.

Sometimes the transverse diaphragm is made of reinforcement bars with a diameter of 5-10 mm with bent ends. This avoids the formation of cold bridges inside the well, which can significantly reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Advantages and disadvantages of well masonry

Like any other building technology, well masonry has its advantages and disadvantages. Its strengths include the following:

• The possibility of erecting buildings with acceptable dimensions of the main walls in full compliance with building codes. Permissible heat loss is provided with a thickness of not more than 64 cm.
• Reducing the total weight of the structure and, as a result, the load on the foundation.
• Saving bricks and reducing the cost of construction while increasing the speed of work.

At the same time, one cannot fail to note several rather serious disadvantages of walls made in the form of an insulated well:

• Decreased strength and uniformity of the structure.
• Formation of condensate in the middle layer of the well during the cold season.
• The heat to which the masonry is exposed in the heat can lead to the destruction of the insulation inside it.

The first problem is solved by a competent calculation of vertical and horizontal diaphragms; to combat the second phenomenon, the inner surfaces of the well are covered with a vapor barrier layer with a mandatory ventilation gap device (at least 10 cm). The third drawback is eliminated by the use of special types of insulation that are resistant to thermal decomposition and have a high degree of hydrophobicity. One of the most suitable options is mineral wool with basalt filler.

Features of the device well brickwork

Depending on the required strength, the masonry of the inside of the wall can be half, one or one and a half bricks thick. It is made from solid building bricks of the most affordable brands (for example, M100). The front side performs decorative functions, protects the insulation from the outside and is made of special bricks. Most often, the thicknesses of the outer and inner layers of the walls are the same, and the width of the well is selected based on the insulation used.

Well masonry necessarily implies the presence of vertical diaphragms, which are tied up with longitudinal rows through one. If the well is filled with bulk materials, then, in order to avoid their subsidence, each layer 30–50 cm high is rammed and spilled with a solution.

Backfilling of walls is usually done after the construction of five or six tiers of bricks. This height is just enough to produce the subsequent pouring of the mortar diaphragm.

The sequence of works on well masonry

Laying walls according to the technology described above usually does not cause serious difficulties for those who have at least minimal experience in stone work. Well technology requires competent calculation, accuracy and the performance of all operations in a certain order:

Well masonry is ideal for building walls of low-rise buildings. It provides an optimal combination of brick consumption, heat-insulating properties and labor intensity. The main disadvantage of this technology is the impossibility of replacing the insulation during operation, which, however, is quite easy to manage with competent calculation and the right choice of filler material.

Which is better: brick or reinforced concrete rings for the construction of a country well? The question that many summer residents are asking today is trying to solve the problem of water supply to a suburban area. In many respects, concrete rings are better: with them, the well construction process is carried out in just a couple of days, these are ready-made durable products. But if the aquifer is not deep (up to 5 m), and apart from the owner of the dacha, no one will build a well, then it is better to start bricks, buy additional consumables and try to raise the shaft of the dug mine with your own hands. The only important condition in this process is the correct laying of brick wells.

Construction of a brick well

It should be noted that stones for the well can be used instead of bricks. It is a good building material that perfectly copes with the negative effects of water. Therefore, such a stone well is an almost eternal structure that will serve in the country house as long as water flows inside from the aquifer. True, it is very difficult to build a well from stone, because this material is elements of different sizes that will have to be adjusted in size all the time. But the topic of the article concerns brick structures, so it is necessary to consider the technology of bricklaying, which is used in the construction of wells.

Requirements for the material used

As for the brick, it should be an ordinary ceramic material. There is a requirement for him - he must be full-bodied, not have cracks and chips. That is, quality is not the last selection criterion.

Solid brick without defects

Masonry mortar has a standard recipe, as in the case of any brickwork. It consists of M400 Portland cement and clean sand, in which the grains of sand have a maximum size of 2 mm. The ratio of the two ingredients gives the brand of masonry mortar, and the less sand it contains, the stronger it is. When it comes to laying brick wells, it is necessary to understand that the well itself is a responsible structure, therefore, during its construction, certain conditions for future operation must be observed. Therefore, it is optimal if the masonry mortar is grade M50. This is when one volume of cement and four volumes of sand are mixed in it.

Masonry technology

Usually a country well for water is a structure that is round in cross section, hence, in principle, the complexity of the process itself. Of course, you can also dig a rectangular shaft, which will simplify the masonry process. But more bricks will go into this design, because it will have to be laid out with a bandage in half of an element one and a half bricks thick. And this is a large consumption of masonry mortar. But this is not the most important, such a design is considered not the most reliable. There is always a risk that the walls will collapse over time.

Rectangular well

Attention! If a brick well is a rectangular structure, then it is recommended to make three walls at an angle, leaving one vertical. It is on it that the brackets are installed, from which the well ladder is created.

Round well masonry

Consider how to properly lay brick wells of circular cross section.

The narrowing of the trunk to the neck

Attention! A very important point that concerns the building itself. A brick well should be built with a slight slope of the walls.

That is, at the bottom, its diameter should be larger than at the top. In this way, a working chamber of the well is created, or, as it is called in another way, a water collector. To get just such a pyramid-like structure, it is necessary to build each upper row relative to the lower one with a slight protrusion of bricks into the forming space. The amount of displacement depends on the depth of the mine. The average value is 5-15 mm. If the well is not very deep, then it is not necessary to make a narrowing to the neck.

It should be noted that the bonding method of laying bricks is not the only one. There are other options, for example, mixed, when the brick is placed with both a poke and a spoon, as shown in the photo below. In this case, it is necessary to correctly shift the rows relative to each other. This is also clearly visible in the photo.

Combined view of brick laying in a well

And the last stage is the plastering of the brick wall. This must be done, especially for the lower part - the water collector. The main thing in the well design for water intake is tightness, so it is very important to create it. For this, a cement-based, rather than gypsum-based, plaster mortar is used for outdoor work.

And one moment. It is clear that having dug up to the water layer, water will begin to collect inside the mine. It is impossible to lay a brick on wet loose soil. Therefore, it is necessary to install a concrete foundation under the masonry. To do this inside the well, even when the water is completely pumped out, will not work. It will accumulate and prevent the concrete from hardening. Therefore, before starting the laying of a brick well, it is necessary to make the foundation itself in advance, as a separate unit.

It is simply poured according to the size of the dug mine, meaning the diameter. The width of the device should be 5-6 cm more than the masonry, and the thickness should be within 10-12 cm. Ideally, if a metal reinforcing frame made of mesh or reinforcement is laid inside the foundation. You can make the foundation prefabricated, that is, from two or three segments.

It is laid on the leveled bottom of the mine, exposing it horizontally. Then you can lay bricks.

In principle, one person can handle the construction of a brick well without any problems. But this can take a long time. Although this is one of the advantages of this structure, that is, there is no need to attract a lot of people, you can do everything yourself without resorting to lifting devices or complex tools.

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When building a well in your own summer cottage, sooner or later the question becomes: how to lay a well with bricks without involving third parties. Perhaps, there will be a question about the construction of several wells of significant depth at the same time. You can always resort to the services of specialized organizations, but it will cost a pretty penny, and the pleasure of the work done will be higher if you do everything yourself.

Currently, almost all owners of summer cottages prefer to equip wells on their territory, which not only become a decoration of the site, but also a source of good quality drinking water. But in order for this structure to serve for a long time and not be polluted, it is necessary to build it correctly.

Before starting the arrangement of the well, it is necessary to take into account the following:

• you need to choose the most correct location of the structure;
• take into account the time of year and weather conditions;
• when working, strictly adhere to the safety regulations for this type of work.

The location for the well is selected in advance. You should not place it in close proximity to residential buildings, as underground sources can erode the soil and the buildings will settle, cracks will appear in them. It is best to dig a well at a distance of at least 20 meters from the house.

The location of the well and other buildings on the site

Do not dig a well near sources of contamination, such as cesspools, barnyards, cemeteries, fields, where there is a possibility of contamination with pesticides. It is necessary to retreat from them at least 30 meters.

It is best to start work in early autumn, since the groundwater at this time is low and it is possible to dig a well for a well deeper than the possible water level. With a high water level, certain difficulties may arise, since in the summer it may disappear.

If the well is too deep, then the quality of the water will be poor, and therefore it should not be consumed. The optimal depth of a well is from 10 to 20 meters. You can find drinking water at a depth of 50 meters, but this is an exception to the rule.

Types of wells depending on the depth and types of soil

It is possible to lay out a brick well only after preliminary preparation has been carried out, which is:

After digging the pit, it is necessary to level and compact it, and also pour gravel and sand on the bottom. Fill the bottom with a foundation using a reinforced or non-reinforced reinforced concrete slab.

Before proceeding with the arrangement of the well, it is necessary to acquire a certain tool, namely:

• spatula;
• hammer-pick;
• order;
• building level;
• mortar shovel;
• rule;
• mooring cord;
• plumb;
• stitching;
• spatula; mason's hammer;
• twine;
• square bracket.

Well laying tools

Laying must be carried out only with the use of full-bodied ceramic bricks. Building materials such as sand, cement and water will also be needed.

Please note that wells made of ceramic stone, as well as silicate bricks, are not made, as they will quickly cease to be serviceable. In order for the structure to be sufficiently tight, it is necessary to purchase a brick without defects.

To buy a sufficient amount of building material, you must use the following formula: 2Pi*R*h, where:

• h is the depth of the well;
• Pi - is a constant value of 3.14;
• R is the radius of the well pit.

In order for the brick to be enough, you need to buy it a little more than the calculated indicator, since it should be borne in mind that a material breakdown is possible. The thickness of the mortar also plays a role.

The well can have both round and square, hexagonal and octagonal shapes. It depends on its purpose. If we are talking about a sewer intake well, then it, as a rule, has a rounded shape. This makes it easy to clean.

Wells can be:

• inspection (they serve to control the main nodes and elements of the system);
• drainage (collect and divert water);
• for stations (they can accommodate special equipment).

Regardless of the different purposes of the structures, they are all built of brick according to almost the same principle. Well walls are laid in a circular way, connecting the brick with a mortar of cement and sand. You also need brackets, fittings and round frames.

All actions must be carried out sequentially:

As soon as the volume of the structure is agreed, the territory is marked out and the digging of the foundation pit begins. It can be dug both manually and with the help of specialized equipment. If manual labor is used, then you need to dig so that the shape of the well is accurate. The bottom of the wells must be horizontal.

As soon as the pit is dug, round frames of a certain diameter (1 meter or more) are prepared. The lowest frame is called the main frame, the rest - intermediate, the last - the top.

The lower frame is made of wood, reinforced concrete or metal. It exceeds the rest by 5-6 cm in outer diameter. It should also be the most durable, with a wall thickness of 80 to 100 mm and have significant weight.

well frame

The width of the main frame depends on the thickness of the brickwork. If the laying is carried out in one brick, then the width of the frame is 250 mm, if the laying in one and a half bricks is 370 mm. Outside, a steel knife is attached to it. The rest of the frames are usually made of wood, the thickness of which is 80mm. Their width can match the masonry or be slightly smaller so that it is possible to fill the seams with cement.

In order to give particular strength to the brickwork of the well, the frames must be fastened with anchors or reinforcing bars, the diameter of which is 1.5 cm or more, at the ends of which there is a thread of 15.0 cm in length. Washers and nuts can be used. To install metal fasteners, holes are made in the frames: 6 pieces in the upper and lower, and twice as many in the intermediate ones. In this case, there must be a complete match of all the holes in different frames.

well frame
1 - main frame
2 - intermediate frame
3 - upper frame
4 - rods

If the water from the well is supposed to be used both for watering the garden and for food, then you should take care to use high-grade cement so that it does not start to get wet and allow groundwater to pass into the structure. As a rule, M500 (Portland cement) is used.

Once the preparation is completed, it is necessary to mount the frames. The nut is screwed onto the anchor until it stops, after which the washer is mounted, inserted into the hole in the lower frame, the washer is put on, the nut is tightened and done this five times.

In the same way, the main frame is connected to the intermediate one. In order for the well to have a perfectly round shape, a template must be used. This is a ring consisting of two identical parts connected with wedges. Hooks are used to hold the rings in the middle of the row. Once a row of masonry is laid, the template should be moved. For free extraction of the template, the masonry should not reach it by 5 mm or more. To strengthen the masonry, a wire of 5 mm diameter is pulled through every 4-5 rows.

Before reaching 5 cm to the intermediate frame, the masonry stops and an anchor structure of 12 elements is installed, which are fixed in the previously described way. The design must be strictly vertical and horizontal, without deviations. Between the masonry and the frame, a cement mortar is applied with the addition of gravel and crushed stone. In order for the frame to be installed tightly and evenly, appropriate recesses are made in the bricks for anchors with nuts and washers. If water enters the well from the side, then windows with dimensions of 500mm * 200mm are left in the masonry, in order to then close them with porous concrete filters.

The well requires constant care, so for easy descent into it, it is necessary to install brackets on the walls even during the masonry process. They are placed in a checkerboard pattern and the distance between them should be about 20cm. Moreover, the staples must be covered with waterproof paint.

Wells are laid out either in one or one and a half bricks. In this case, the rows are assumed to be either a bonder type, or interspersed with a spoon type. Regardless of which type of masonry is chosen, the first and second rows are made bonded. In order for the well to be the correct round shape, it is worth using a template.

The scheme of the round laying of a brick well: a - from pokes; b - from pokes and spoons: 1 - template; 2 - widened seam of cement mortar.

Laying a well is within the power of anyone who loves work and has free time. There is nothing complicated here. You just have to follow certain rules:

1. A cement mortar is taken and laid out on the main frame 1.5 cm thick, then its surface is well leveled;
2. Then the first brick row is laid, then the next, and so on until leveling with the ground;
3. With round masonry, it is assumed that there are gaps on the outside of the bricks. These gaps are filled with broken pieces of brick mixed with mortar.

When laying, great attention should be paid to the holes for the anchors. All gaps are eliminated with cement mortar. As soon as the structure has reached ground level, a brick mouth of the well is made, which is then closed with a lid. It is necessary to remember about waterproofing works.

The last stage of construction is the plastering of the walls of the well. This is done between the bottom and intermediate frames using a 1:1 or 1:2 cement mortar. Alignment of such a solution occurs with the help of a semicircle, and smoothing with a spatula. To make the walls smooth, beacons are set opposite the anchor.

When laying the neck of the well, intermediate rings connected with anchors are used. If the masonry is professional, then it involves a change in the position of building materials. In this case, the direction changes along and across the contour of the circle through one or two rows. Such masonry is more durable, reliable and durable.

A well cannot be built in one day. The cement mortar is not able to harden quickly, so there is a significant load on the lower rows. It is worth noting that the well is not only a source of water, but also an aesthetic structure on the site, so it is worth laying bricks with special care, making the seams the same in thickness. The last step is to make a canopy, thanks to which snow and rain will not fall into the well.

Wells are a multifunctional structure. There are different types of them depending on the purpose, the material of manufacture. What are they? What is the technology of laying brick wells, read the article.

Types of wells

These structures are different, which depends on many factors: purpose, soil composition and much more.

There are the following types of wells:

• Key- the most economical and simple. They are descending and ascending, depending on the availability of keys.
• Mine wells. To create them, it is necessary to dig a shaft 10-20 meters deep. The shape of such wells is different: round, rectangular, square.
• Pipe wells. They are made in a round shape, resembling a pipe. These are durable and hygienic structures.

Wells are constructed from a variety of materials. It can be brick, stone, concrete, reinforced concrete, wood.

mine wells

These structures, regardless of type, have the same design - an elongated pit, the depth of which is 5-15 meters. The walls of such a well are reinforced, the head is neatly decorated. The advantages of a mine-type structure are that there is constant access to drinking water, which is not only stored here, but also replenished in a natural way. Such a well is extremely rarely completely drained.

brick mine

Different types of shaft wells differ little from each other in their design. The difference between a stone and a brick well, for example, is small. The main difference is in the laying of bricks, where a certain scheme is applied. In order for the walls of the well to be reliable, the width of the masonry should be one to one and a half bricks. The round shape of the shaft is achieved through the use of a stabilizing profile.

If a brick or stone shaft is not reinforced with a frame that forms the skeleton of the entire well structure, it will very soon begin to crumble. For the manufacture of the support frame, a metal profile, fittings or waterproof wood species are used.

pipe well

The laying of a brick well begins with the preparation of frames. Their diameter should be equal to the diameter of the future well. The main one is the bottom frame. For its manufacture, metal, reinforced concrete is used, or since it must be the most durable. The frame is 10 cm thick. The width is equal to the thickness of the masonry. The size of the outer diameter is 5-6 centimeters larger than the outer diameter of the intermediate frames.

The outer edge of the frame around the entire perimeter below has a steel knife. Wooden is both the upper and intermediate frame. They are fastened together with nails. The thickness of these frames is 8 centimeters, and the width is the same or slightly less than the thickness of the masonry.

Along the perimeter of the frames, it is necessary to drill holes under each other, between which there will be the same distance. They are needed in order to insert anchors into them. The bottom frame has six anchors that are tightly secured with a nut and washer. After checking the level, the finished frame is lowered horizontally into the pit, and an intermediate frame is put on it with the help of nuts and washers. To make the structure stronger, it is necessary to strengthen it from above with logs.

Masonry of brick wells

This process is performed in one - one and a half bricks. In this case, the rows can only be bonded or alternate with spoon ones. Necessarily, regardless of the type of masonry, the first two rows are bonded. To maintain the correct round shape, experts recommend using templates that are made in the form of rings with two halves fastened with wedges.

Laying wells with your own hands is not difficult if everything is done correctly. First, a cement mortar 1-1.5 centimeters thick is applied to the main frame and leveled. Bricks of the first row are placed on it, then the second and so on. If the masonry of the wells is round, there will be gaps between the bricks on the outside. They need to be filled with bricks broken into small pieces mixed with mortar.

During masonry, do not forget about the holes for the anchors. They are made in bricks. Gaps must be sealed with cement mortar. In order to obtain a solid brick laying, a thin wire should be laid in two layers along the entire length of each fourth row. When the distance between the intermediate frame and the top row becomes 5-6 centimeters, the masonry must be suspended, the anchors fixed on the frame, and the free space filled with mortar. But beforehand, gravel or crushed stone is added to it in a ratio of 1: 3. The solution must be compacted. For this, a wooden board is suitable, the width of which matches the distance between the frame and the bricks.

When water enters the well through the walls, holes for windows equal to 25x50 centimeters are left in them. They will be equipped with water filters. Reinforcement is applied to the brickwork of the upper row and poured with a cement mortar 20-25 centimeters thick.

Plastering

After the laying of brick wells with their own hands is completed, they begin to plaster their internal and external walls. To facilitate this operation, you need to stock up on beacons, which are smooth, even slats. For this work, six pieces are enough. They are installed at the same distance from each other in those places where the anchors are attached.

The lighthouse is separated from the lighthouse by a wooden semicircle, which is called a malka. Its radius is half the diameter of the inside of the well. Malka moves along the beacons from top to bottom and vice versa, thereby leveling the solution that was previously applied to the wall.

It is impossible to immediately plaster the walls along their entire height, this is done in stripes. Each time, the beacons need to be removed, and the gaps should be sealed with mortar. In order not to clog the bottom with lumps of the falling solution, it is covered with boards.

Plaster the inner and outer surface of the walls of the well in two stages. First, a liquid mortar is sprayed to fill all the cracks in the brickwork, and then a thicker one.

After the first strip of masonry has been plastered, it is necessary to continue sampling the soil and laying the second strip. So you should alternate work until the well is completely dug to the desired depth, which is fixed with concrete slabs placed under the knives of the main frame. The plates should extend beyond the boundaries of the well by about half a meter. After all work is completed, the bottom of the well must be well cleaned and covered with rubble, gravel or sand.

sewer well

The laying of wells of this type is carried out using clay bricks that do not allow water to pass through. In the absence of such, red will do. Laying is carried out in half a brick. Sewer wells are round, rectangular or square. To create them, you will need a lot of bricks, cement, sand, bitumen, greasy clay, crushed stone, as well as a floor slab and a ventilation pipe.

But first you need to choose a place where the laying of brick wells will be carried out. Instructions with safety requirements for the installation and operation of sewer wells must be observed. The arrangement of such structures is carried out at a distance of 30 meters from the source of drinking water.

If the well is intended for the accumulation of waste, it is placed in a summer cottage so that a sewage pumping machine can drive up to it.

How to calculate the capacity of a sewer well?

This is easy to do. It is necessary to multiply the amount of water consumed per day in the country and the number of days during which sewage accumulates, for the processing of which microorganisms require three days. This must be taken into account when building a treatment plant made of bricks. It should be of such size that there is enough space for the accumulation of waste for several days.

Brick laying of a sewer well

After determining the location of the well, acquiring the necessary material, construction begins. The technological process of laying brick wells begins with pouring the foundation. The solution is prepared from two parts of sand, one each - gravel and cement. Height 20 centimeters. After pouring, it needs to be given time to harden. Usually one week is enough for this. Every day the foundation must be watered.

Then masonry of wells is done, plastering of the bottom and walls, coating with bitumen in two layers. A ceiling made of a reinforced concrete slab or a tarred wooden shield, a hatch and a pipe for ventilation are installed.

brickwork

Structures of this type are used in water supply and sewerage facilities. it is recommended to place at a distance of at least 3-12 meters from the dwelling. Its owner determines its size individually. The main requirement is the availability of conditions for work related to the maintenance of the pipeline.

Wells can have different shapes. The walls of a round well have a thickness equal to the length of one brick, which is laid with pokes. Rectangular brick laying is carried out according to a two-row system.

For laying bricks in dry soil, a mortar of cement and sand is used in a ratio of 1:4, and in wet soil - 1:3. The seams inside the well are also rubbed with mortar.

If groundwater occurs at the depth of a dug well, its outer surface is plastered. The thickness of the layer reaches two centimeters, and the height is half a meter above the groundwater level. When laying the walls of the well, brackets made of cast iron or steel are embedded in its seams. The distance between them is 35 centimeters. Staples are arranged vertically in a checkerboard pattern in two rows. They replace steps during the descent and ascent into the mine.

Requirements

There are special requirements for the material from which the well is being built. Brick should not have chips, cracks and be hollow. The solution is taken with a standard formulation. It consists of Portland cement M400 and clean sand with a grain size of no more than two millimeters. The mortar is stronger if it contains less sand. It is easy to find out by the ratio of ingredients. M50 brand solution is considered optimal: one part of cement and four of sand.

I think that having a little skill in working with bricks, it is quite possible to build such a furnace on your own. As I understood from the question, you need a furnace with three vertical channels. For a small room, a stove is suitable, which I will offer below. For work we need

Two gate valves were chosen because the furnace has summer and winter firing modes. So, let's begin. We lay out the first row on the foundation prepared in advance

The second row binds the first

On the third row we install the blower door

on the fourth row, we continue to make an ash chamber, form a horizontal lower channel and install a cleaning door

on the fifth row, we block the blower door and continue the construction of the lower horizontal channel

on the sixth row, the horizontal channel and the cleaning door are blocked

as a result of this operation, we get two vertical smoke channels, and the left channel under the number 1 will be directly connected to the pipe and serve at the same time to perform the function of the summer run, and the channel under the number 3 will directly participate in heating the furnace array

On the seventh row, we install the furnace door and continue to form channels

with the eighth row we bind the previous one and form another vertical channel

at the same time, we put a summer valve here, when opened, hot gases will go directly into the pipe, and when closed, the entire furnace will start working.

The ninth row is exactly the same as the eighth, but on it we already lay out a jumper over the furnace door, which will not allow the brick to fall

on the tenth row, we close the furnace door and do not forget to make a connection between 1 and 2 vertical channels (otherwise the furnace simply will not work)

On the eleventh row we lay a cast-iron plate. This is done in the following way. First, we lay the slab on the brick, then outline it with a pencil, remove the slab, and then cut the brick to a depth of 15 mm along the drawn contour with a grinder, so that we can then insert the slab flush into the groove formed. The plate is planted on an asbestos cord and its horizontal is checked

Starting from the twelfth row, we make a heating shield

From the thirteenth to the eighteenth row, everything goes as in the twelfth. On the eighteenth row, we put the valve of the winter course, then on the nineteenth row we continue construction, and on the 20th and 21st rows we block all channels except the first one. From channel 22, we begin to build a pipe. As you can see, in the process of work, you have to cut a lot of bricks, so I advise you to buy a diamond wheel for a grinder, it will save you a lot of nerves and time.