Often crops in gardens are destroyed spring frosts, which are also one of the reasons for the onset of periodic fruiting. How fight spring frosts and winter frosts. To avoid these negative phenomena, it is necessary to select late-flowering species and varieties for places that are often subject to the destructive effects of spring frosts. An effective remedy frost control is also installation of smoke screens. A good smoke curtain increases the air temperature in the garden by 1-1.5°, which can be decisive during short-term frosts. Smoke in the garden must be prepared in advance. You can determine the probability of freezing using a Brownov plot. In cloudy weather, the likelihood of frost decreases. The harmful effects of spring frosts reduce abundant watering of the garden before flowering.
Various flammable materials are used to create smoke in the garden: leaves, straw, manure, garbage. You can burn crude oil or waste oils in buckets or metal cans. To create more smoke, fine coal dust is added to burning oil. Smoke in the garden begins when the temperature drops to 2°C and, if there is frost, it continues for 1-2 hours after sunrise.

The influence of spring frosts on the apricot harvest

The apricot crop often dies not from early spring frosts, but rather from thaws in winter when the temperature rises to 15-18 °C above zero. The buds have exceptional early maturity. Already 15-20 days after the leaves fall, in the presence of heat and moisture, they are capable of flowering.
As has been established, fruit buds bloom in everyone not when the soil thaws and the roots begin to actively function, but from air warming. Therefore, freezing the soil by throwing snow under the trees and covering it with straw, as previously recommended in the literature, cannot protect apricot buds from swelling and dying during winter thaws. An effective means of delaying the early initiation and formation of flower buds in apricots, as practice has shown, is heavy tree pruning, which enhances vegetative growth and delays the formation of fruit buds. Not being fully formed by the beginning of winter, they more easily tolerate warming and sudden temperature fluctuations than a significant part of them remains in the spring.

Increasing the frost resistance of fruit trees

Trees grafted on paradise, and - on, and ungrafted quince trees often suffer from damage to the root system by frost during snowless winters. To increase the frost resistance of fruit trees water-recharging watering of the garden is carried out in the fall, after the leaves have fallen, which improves the overwintering conditions of dwarf trees and quince. If it is not possible to water the garden, then the trees are covered with a layer of straw or manure.

varieties Renet Simirenko, Renet champagne, Renet Landsberg are especially sensitive. In places where there is large number moisture, the summer remains relatively cool, and winter comes 2-3 weeks earlier than in the steppe regions, these varieties of apple trees and a number of varieties of pears almost every year did not finish the growing season by the beginning of winter. In winter, the trees' fruit buds and annual growth froze.
To combat this phenomenon for three years phosphorus and potassium fertilizers were applied. And this measure helped: The winter hardiness of trees has sharply increased, freezing of shoots is almost not observed, the trees began to shed their leaves in a timely manner. Increasing the frost resistance of trees by applying phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be successfully used in Blooming spring garden

With the arrival of spring, there is still a high probability of frost, but the trees in the garden have already begun to actively develop and bloom. There are several proven ways to protect plants from frost, which will help keep the garden healthy and harvest good harvest.

With a significant and sharp cold snap, from 10 degrees Celsius during the day to 5 degrees below zero at night, not only the flowers die, but also the young ovaries on fruit trees. It is very important to predict in time whether there will be frost and take the necessary safety measures.

The approach of a sharp cold snap can be judged by high atmospheric pressure, calmness, clear weather and a decrease in air temperature. The most dangerous period for plants occurs in the first hours of dawn.

Gardeners can adopt the following frost resistance techniques:

• smoke from burning weeds or smoke bombs;
• artificial fog using a special sprayer;
• film shelter and a candle burning under it;
• synthetic fiber or other covering material.

Smoke from fruit trees

Combustible material (straw, hay, dry leaves) is piled up on different sides of the site, covered with moss, sawdust or damp grass on top, and set on fire. The top damp layer retards combustion and produces a lot of smoke.

This allows you to keep the temperature above zero by 1-2 degrees and protects flowering trees from the cold. But, unfortunately, this method is effective only in complete calm, otherwise the smoke screen will be blown to the side.

Garden smoke bombs for fumigating fruit trees

When the checkers burn, the flowers and ovary are covered with a thin layer of paraffin, which resists frostbite, and when the air temperature rises, it simply evaporates. But it is necessary to take into account the presence of wind, and promptly move the source of smoke in the right direction.

Artificial fog for large areas

In world practice, special installations are widely used to create artificial fog that envelops fruit trees and reliably protects them from the cold. But this method is designed for large areas and is suitable for farms or gardens with large areas, since special equipment for spraying and equipment for its transportation are required.

Film shelter

When there is a threat of frost, trees are covered with plastic film, the ends of which must be fixed under the crown, closer to the trunk. The result is a dome-shaped structure, and an open candlestick with a lit candle is suspended inside the crown. The heat from a candle in such a shelter is quite enough to maintain a positive temperature.

If the candle is not used, the film is fixed under the crown, tightly clasping the trunk. When the air temperature rises, the shelter must be removed immediately.

Synthetic fiber tree cover

Very often gardeners for protection blooming garden agrofibre is used. A piece of covering material is thrown over the crown and tightly fixed to the trunk.

If there is an assumption that the frost will last for several days, then you don’t have to remove it at all during this time. Today this is the most common method, since it is less labor-intensive and does not require constant presence in the garden.

What do gardeners fear most in the spring? The fact that during the flowering of garden trees and shrubs spring frosts will suddenly strike and the future harvest will die. We plant heat-loving garden crops in greenhouses and make shelters for them. What about protecting larger plants? And most importantly: is it possible to somehow predict cold snaps and frosts without relying on the weather forecast?

When frosts occur, the apical growth point of plants is damaged, which subsequently leads, for example, potatoes and tomatoes to late blight. When cabbage freezes, instead of one healthy head of cabbage, several small heads of cabbage are formed, pumpkin crops die, and flowers and young ovaries of apple trees, cherries, strawberries and even currants are damaged. Damage is worse in lowlands, in drafts and in dense plantings.

Critical air temperatures for the garden in autumn, winter and spring

Culture	Crown	Roots	Growth buds	Flower buds	buds	Flowers	Ovaries
Apple	—35	—10	—40	—35	—4	—2,3	—1,8
Pear	—25	—8	—30	—25	—4	—2,3	—1,2
Cherry	—35	—10	—40	—35	—2	—2,3	—1,2
Plum	—30	—8	—25	—25	—4	—2,3	—1,2
Strawberries	—12	—8	—15	—12	—2	—1	—1
Raspberry	—15	—10	—15	—12	—2	—1	—1
Currant	—40	—15	—40	—35	—5	—3	—2
Gooseberry	—40	—20	—40	—35	—6	—3	—2

A sign of the onset of night frosts in spring and early summer is a sharp cooling in the evening hours and a clear sky with bright stars. On such evenings at 21-22 o'clock it is necessary to check the readings of two thermometers: one dry, and the other wrapped in a damp cloth. If the readings are approximately the same as in the table below, then there will almost certainly be frost at night or in the early morning hours.

Dry and wet thermometer readings indicating upcoming frosts

How to protect your garden during frost

Did the thermometer readings alert you? Then take a hose or sprayer and thoroughly water the garden the evening before the frost by sprinkling, spraying the tree crowns not only outside, but also inside. Also spray bushes, strawberries, vegetable gardens, flower beds and the outside of greenhouses.

When sprinkling garden, the air humidity around the plants increases. During freezing, frost is formed from droplets of moisture, the process occurs with the release of internal heat, and the temperature around the plants rises by 1-2 degrees. Moistened soil allows heat to pass through well from the lower layers, so it cools slowly, which is also important, since frost occurs in the soil.

Quite different reliable way avoid the consequences of frost - plant cover any available material. In order to save buds, flowers and ovaries from damage, it is enough to just cover the bushes from above. The garden can be covered with lutrasil or simply with newspapers.

In greenhouses, plants need to be additionally covered with either lutrasil or newspapers, or arches must be installed and additional cover made with film. Such a double film shelter will create the effect of a thermos: a layer of air between the two films will keep the temperature more or less constant, and the plants will not overheat in hot weather and will not freeze in cold weather.

At night, many gardeners light electric (100 watt/hour per 10 m2) or kerosene lamps in greenhouses. The lamps must be covered with a cap so that the glass does not burst from the drops.

When the temperature drops to zero in the greenhouse at night, you can simply put two buckets with very hot water, but not on the soil, but on a wooden stand so that the water does not cool down too quickly.

And one more thing: folk sign- there will be no more frosts if the cuckoo crows regularly, the red rowan tree has bloomed, and a white lily leaf has appeared on the water.

How to calculate flowering times

If you do not live in the country in the spring and early summer, when trees and shrubs are flowering, then you cannot know exactly when, say, a cherry tree will bloom - and whether the flowering will coincide with cold weather and frosts. But the timing of flowering can be calculated.

Below I provide average statistical data on the beginning of the flowering periods of various garden crops for the Leningrad region, where I cultivate my plot. You may ask: why are they needed, because the flowering times of the same plants will vary significantly different regions countries? And the temperatures of the current year may differ from the average data...

However, it has been noticed: the flowering sequence of shrubs and trees in the garden is very stable, therefore, taking as a starting point some phenomenon, for example, the flowering time of coltsfoot in your area, you can very accurately determine the flowering time of other crops.

Using the table, calculate the number of days between the flowering of coltsfoot and, for example, currants. It will be 40 days. Suppose your coltsfoot bloomed on April 20, which means that the currant will bloom in 40 days, that is, on June 1. If in your region the coltsfoot bloomed on April 8, then you can be sure that the currant will bloom in your place on May 18. So, based on the table above, you can create a similar one for any region of the country.

Average statistical data on the beginning of plant flowering periods for the Leningrad region
Transition of average daily temperature through 0 °C 1.04
Blooming coltsfoot 15.04
Transition of average daily temperature through +5 °C 04/29
Budding of currants, birch, rowan 2.05
Last frost in the air 9.05
Bird cherry blossom 12.05
Transition of average daily temperature through +10 °C 17.05
Gooseberry blossom 20.05
Last frost on the soil 24.05
Currant blossom 25.05
Cherry and plum blossoms 26.05
Apple blossom 29.05
Strawberry blossom 3.06
Lilac blossom 4.06
Blooming red rowan 6.06
Transition of average daily temperature through +15 °C 10.06
Raspberry blossom 18.06
Strawberry ripening 06/25
Ripening currants 22.07
Transition of average daily temperature through +15 °C 08/31
First frost on the soil 19.09
Transition of average daily temperature through +10 °C 09/27
First frost in the air 9.10
First snow 12.10
Transition of average daily temperature through +5 °C 21.10
Transition of average daily temperature through 0 °C 11/18

Author Galina Kizima gardener-enthusiast with 50 years of experience, author of original techniques

Comment on the article "Frosts and the garden in spring: plant protection during flowering"

Frosts and the garden in spring: plant protection during flowering. However, it has been noticed: the sequence of flowering of shrubs and trees in the garden is very If in your region the coltsfoot bloomed on April 8, then you can be sure that the currant will bloom in your place on May 18.

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From year to year, gardeners and gardeners fight for the harvest against spring frosts, inventing all kinds of ways to protect against them. flowering trees, shrubs and seedlings planted in the ground. Here are the most popular of these methods.

Fumigation (smoking)

Gardeners make smoke heaps (1 m high and 1.5 m wide) from brushwood, straw, and fallen leaves. Sprinkle them with manure and a layer of soil (2-3 cm) on top. On the leeward side in the heaps, holes are pierced with a stick and the dry organic matter is set on fire.

Smoldering slowly, it creates a smoke cloud that retards heat transfer from the soil. This saves plants during frosts down to – 4 degrees. One pile is designed for an area of ​​10 square meters. m and for 15 hours of smoking. Smoke bombs sold in gardening stores work similarly.

Watering and sprinkling

When the temperature drops to -2°, emergency watering is carried out in gardens and vegetable gardens. Thanks to it, heat from the depths of the soil is transferred to the surface, forming a fog that blocks the access of cold air to the plants. This is also facilitated by barrels of water placed on the site. And with frosts down to -5°, sprinkling will help (spraying the plants with water from a hose with a sprinkler).

A crust of ice, covering the flowers and young shoots, will retain heat on their surface and prevent frostbite.

Construction of shelters for frost protection

Plants in beds can be protected from freezing when the temperature drops to -7° only with the help of shelters. Cover carrot shoots, onions, and strawberries with agrofibre. Tie the berry bushes with burlap.

Hill up the potatoes up to the top.

Saving frozen plants

If you did not have time to take appropriate measures and the plants froze, try to save them. Before dawn, spray the whole plant with cold (not warm!) water or a solution: 2 g of manganese, copper and boron per 10-liter bucket of water. Wrap the seedling bushes with rags or straw. By thawing gradually, they can come to life. Dead tomatoes are capable of producing strong side shoots. To help the planting roots recover, loosen the soil and water it with a weak solution. complex fertilizers. This way you will save at least part of the future harvest.

Return frosts are a silent disaster

It seems like it’s already real summer. Let at the beginning of June only the calendar, astronomical, be shifted relative to the calendar by three weeks, towards September. But it’s not for nothing that most of the country’s territory lies in the risky farming zone, and in the first half of the month return frosts are still possible in the middle zone. There is little consolation that they are the last: one is enough to destroy the crop.

Frost usually hits our gardens before dawn. Especially in depressions of the relief, sort of “reservoirs” for cold air. On slopes of any aspect, as well as on hills and near large bodies of water, there is much less fear of frost. Ponds generally cover the gardens with fog. Gardeners whose dachas are located in the southern Ladoga region know this well: if the site is located no further than 500 m from the shore, there is no need to be afraid of the last return frosts. The water of the lake at this time is already warmed up to at least +10°, and this heat is enough for half a kilometer from the shore. And those. who's next? - fully enjoying the last “kicks” of Santa Claus...

How to protect your garden from return frosts?

The simplest thing is to water the entire area, including the paths, in the evening. Maybe not abundantly, but evenly and without gaps. And try to negotiate with your neighbors so that they do the same. Okay, of course, that's it. who has running water? You will have to run around with a watering can or at least thoroughly wet the soil under fruit trees and bushes. They say that you can be guaranteed to save a tree from frost by placing 4 buckets of warm water in a square under the crown. To be honest, it’s not very scientific... But why not try?

And of course the classic: smoking remains in our arsenal. To guarantee smoke on 6 acres in calm weather, 4-5 small fires are enough. You just need to prepare them in advance, so that when you get up at night and see that the temperature is confidently dropping below zero, you don’t rush around in the dark collecting firewood! On a quiet day, stack the fires so that they can be lit with one match. And let there be a bunch of weeds nearby, which you throw into the flaring fire. For smoke.

Another traditional way— sprinkling. No less effective, but more confusing. After all, it’s not sugar at all to wander around a dark garden with a sprayer. watering trees and inevitably yourself at the first degrees below zero. When dawn comes, you will be horrified to see (if you did everything correctly) flowers in balls of ice, icicles on the leaves... This is how it should be! The temperature of the ice “shell” is 0°C, and for most of our trees and bushes -2...4°C is critical (and lower, of course). And even before the onset of the “mature” morning, the ice will melt.

It's easier with vegetables

There is no need to save cabbage and onions down to -4°C at all. Anything less cold-resistant should be covered with lutra-sil the night before. and if there is no wind in sight -

just cover it with newspapers at night. We’ll easily pile up the potatoes so that they won’t even be visible. Don’t rush to rake it out - in a couple of days it will come out on its own (if the mounds weren’t built above it).

Film greenhouses and tunnels are guaranteed to withstand -3°C. glass ones are about the same. and polycarbonate ones are the warmest. They can withstand -5...6°C. Of course, unless you commit sabotage. forgetting to close the doors or windows!

But still, for insurance, additionally cover the cucumbers with something from evening to morning (if their size still allows this). Of our greenhouse crops, they are the most heat-loving: zero days are already critical, and the first minuses are fatal!

And if you have electricity and even a low-power fan heater, that’s great: turn it on and take a nap! If not, it’s not a big problem to boil a bucket or two of water. Experience shows that a bucket of boiling water for 8 mg of greenhouse is enough. to survive freezing temperatures of -10°C.

And one more word. Strong plants tolerate temperature fluctuations more easily. Phosphorus and potassium increase the sugar content in the cell sap, and hence cold resistance: why not water the plants with a weak solution of these elements before a possible frost?

And the now popular phytoadaptogens - epin, zircon and the like - increase the breadth of plant adaptation to conditions environment. And that means frost!

Nature calendar middle zone in relation to gardening

For horticultural crops, damage caused by winter frosts and late spring frosts is of practical importance. The roots of horticultural crops are more sensitive to frost than the aboveground part, and the temperature minimum for the roots of pome and stone fruit crops is minus 12-14 °C.

During winter dormancy, plant cells are much more resistant to low temperatures than during the growing season. The ability of plants to tolerate low temperatures develops after completion of growth, ripening and hardening. For hardening perennial plants and passing through the first phase it is necessary for them to accumulate sufficient reserves of carbohydrates. Therefore, the more abundantly they are supplied with nutrients, the less they are damaged by frost. In this regard, all impacts on the tree that delay the deposition of reserve substances in it and the ripening of wood reduce cold resistance. These include: late application of nitrogen fertilizers, which causes too much vegetative growth and prevents the timely completion of shoot growth, as well as damage to the leaf apparatus and excessive yields.

As a result of exposure to damaging winter factors, the garden may experience:

Partial or complete death of flower buds;

Freezing (to varying degrees) of annual growths, branches of different ages and trunk;

Damage to the bark on the trunk and skeletal branches from sunburn and frost busters;

Breakage of branches due to icing and accumulation of a large mass of wet snow;

Freezing or death of roots due to deep freezing of the soil (temperature below minus 16-18 ° C) in the absence of snow cover.

Severe disruption of plant life (with possible restoration of functions) or complete death.

Let's consider situations in the resolution of which a gardener can take an active part.

Trees need to be taken care of immediately after planting, especially in the fall. In the first 2 years, it is better to insulate the tree trunk in late autumn (before the onset of persistent severe cold) by mulching with cardboard, peat, sawdust, etc. materials.

On trunks and thick branches of trees as a result of the action low temperatures Frost damage may occur, leading to the death and rupture of the bark. Frost breaks are observed primarily in cases of large fluctuations in air temperature, when warm sunny days alternate with cold nights. Tall trees are more susceptible to frost breaks, and frost breaks are almost always located on the south and southwest side.

Therefore, the gardener must, before starting dangerous period during cold weather, protect tree trunks from sunlight. For this purpose, it is necessary to: install nets on the trunks or wrap them with nylon stockings (for young trees of pome crops this is at the same time protection from damage by mice), and also whiten with a lime solution of the following composition: per 10 liters of water - 2.5 kg of lime, 0.5 kg copper sulfate, 0.1 kg wood glue. You can use special paint brand VS-511 or “Protection” for this purpose.

It is advisable to resume whitewashing of trunks and skeletal branches in early spring (late March - early April), when returning cold weather is still possible (but not in early May, as inexperienced gardeners usually do).

To protect the trunk and skeletal branches from damage by severe frosts, hilling the trees with snow will help. When hilling, you must do so in order to preserve a 15-20 cm layer of snow under the tree crowns (to protect the root system from frost). And in the spring (March), when the thaw sets in, the dense snow crust of the piles must be destroyed with the help of a pitchfork or sprinkled with snow around the tree wood ash(can be peat).

Caring for tree bark wounds caused by frost damage should begin as soon as possible.

The wound should be covered with garden pitch or a mixture of mullein and clay, and then wrapped with a dark film (it was noticed that even cuts when pruning trees form callus faster and heal if they are wrapped in a dark film).

A great danger for the garden is posed by regularly recurring spring frosts, when the return of cold weather occurs after the flower buds have opened. Apple tree buds die at a temperature of minus 2.8-3.9 °C, the stamens and pistils of a blossoming flower - at minus 1.5-2.5 °C, the young ovary - at minus 1 °C.

Flower buds usually bloom 1-5 days earlier than vegetative ones. The duration of flowering of fruit trees depends on weather conditions, but its sequence among species is as follows: cherry plum, cherry, plum, pear, apple tree; for berry crops - gooseberries, red currants, black currants, strawberries, raspberries. This may also determine the likelihood of damage to plants by spring frosts.

With clear skies and calm air, radiation frosts occur, characterized by strong cooling as a result of radiation. Areas where there is accumulation are more susceptible to such frosts. cold air- low areas and basins. Here the air temperature, as a rule, is 5-8 °C lower than on a flat area. If the site is located on a slope, then you should not make a continuous fence at the bottom of it to prevent cold air from stagnating.

The forecast of spring frosts can be made by monitoring changes in air temperature and the state of the atmosphere.

Grid graph for determining the probability of frost (the numbers on the vertical axis on the right indicate the probability in%)

The most effective method by which you can raise the air temperature by 4 °C is fine-drip sprinkling (continuously or at short intervals), since when the water freezes, heat is released, which protects the plant from death from frost. If spraying is not possible, placing containers filled to the top with water around the perimeter of the crown of flowering trees will help. If the water freezes during freezing, the ice crust must be thrown away and water added to the containers.

In gardens with turf, if there is a danger of frost, it is better to mow the grass short in order to reduce thermal radiation.

Another method of combating frost is smoking, the effect of which is based on the fact that the creation of a layer of smoke prevents the dissipation of heat by radiation. The success of the smoke will depend on the area protected by the smoke and the quality of the smoke itself. The material of the smoke heaps (brushwood, straw, manure, moss, etc.) should produce a lot of water vapor (the so-called “white smoke”). For protection flowering plants from spring frosts, approximately 8-10 smoke piles are needed for an area of ​​600 m2 for 6-7 hours of combustion. Smoking begins when the air temperature drops to 1 °C at night and ends 1.5-2 hours after sunrise.

If the plants are slightly frostbitten after freezing, they should be sprayed with water after sunrise - they may recover.

On a strawberry plantation, covering the plants with 2 layers of newspaper, sewn into long (up to 10 m) strips, can save you from frost. The width of the strip is 83 cm, the strip is rolled into rolls. Approximately 40 newspapers are consumed per 10 m of bed. You can also cover strawberry beds with strips of old wallpaper.

Unusual advice. In order to delay flowering in the garden, some gardeners trample snow under the crown of trees and protect it from melting. This should not be done, since the above-ground part of the tree in warm weather will still begin to develop due to reserves in the branches, and the roots at this time will not yet begin to supply water and nutrients. All this will lead to depletion and weakening of plants. It would be another matter if the gardener could cover the entire tree with snow. Then you can slightly delay flowering and protect yourself from spring frosts.