Rules for installing a greenhouse on a personal plot. Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse: what you need to know How to install a greenhouse yourself

Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands on your site allows you to grow your own environmentally friendly crop - it is much safer than vegetables from the market, there is always a fresh abundance of vitamins on the table, and even in winter, opening a rolled up jar of cucumbers/tomatoes is a pleasure.

For those who are imbued with the value of such a perspective, we offer detailed instructions, how to install a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, we will tell you how to properly prepare the site, which design is better to choose, what to install on, how to avoid typical installation mistakes.

Design features and materials

On the modern market of goods for personal plots, there are various polycarbonate greenhouses; how to choose and install directly depends on the materials and shape of the structure. The most popular types:

arched;
rectangular under a gable or sloping roof.

The structure frame can be made of various materials:

Aluminum prefabricated with powder coated, is assembled according to the principle of a designer - the narrow end of the profile is inserted into the wider one. The mounting method is strong enough to withstand the elements.
Galvanized steel with a reliable protective layer, fastening principle - special joining parts: corners, strips, crosses, additionally fixed with a bolted connection.
From plastic pipes- the most inexpensive frame for installing a greenhouse.
Prefabricated welded structures consisting of valuable elements: pediments, arches, covering.

Installation of the greenhouse on the foundation, double arcs provide additional strength, the structures are relevant for winter structures

There is a budget-friendly way to install a greenhouse on a site, for example, by welding a frame from a profile pipe with your own hands or making it from wood. After installation and assembly, such structures are cleaned of scale and corrosion, primed, and painted.

Good to know: The optimal pipe size for making a medium-sized greenhouse frame is 40*20 mm with a wall thickness of 1.5-2 mm. For large structures, you should take pipes 60*20-40 mm.

Ready-made products for self-installation are presented in different configurations, and the price of the greenhouse depends on this. In addition to the frame with an entrance and covering material - polycarbonate, the structure can have several transom windows for ventilation, with different fittings, as well as seals that ensure tightness of the joints. Additional options help create and maintain a favorable microclimate for growing crops, so before installing a greenhouse, you should think about whether you want to save money or whether your goal is to get the highest quality, functional structure.

Finished products are accompanied by detailed printed instructions on how to properly install a polycarbonate greenhouse; assembly is carried out strictly according to the manufacturer’s diagram. These are serial products designed for standard conditions; on site the owner has to improve the construction himself, adapting the installation and assembly to the garden plot.

Watch the specialist's recommendations on how to select and install a polycarbonate greenhouse - assembly and installation, the video will help you avoid 10 mistakes characteristic of this process. Additionally, the video describes in detail how to choose cellular polycarbonate correctly, and explains in which direction to install it on the frame.

Site for installation of a greenhouse

The site for installing the greenhouse should preferably be located on a sunny, windless side. The width orientation is from east to west. It could be:

separate area;
a place near the house, if the structure is adjacent to the building, usually these are arched asymmetrical or rectangular single-pitched structures of a cantilever- (beam)-supporting type, suitable for installation on small personal plots.

Before installing a polycarbonate greenhouse, the site must be cleared of debris, the roots must be uprooted, fenced off with pegs, a rope stretched around the perimeter, and the soft layer of soil must be removed; this is approximately 300 mm of the top fertile soil.

Foundation - what to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on

The choice of foundation for reliable installation of a structure depends on several objective factors:

geodetic conditions;
relief;
shape, size, weight of the structure.

The strip base is considered the most versatile for installing any type of greenhouse. This foundation can be done in several ways:

pour a shallow monolithic concrete strip;
install ready-made blocks and tie them together with reinforcement and mortar;
lay a foundation of bricks;
build a rubble pedestal from clay and stones;
make a base box from thick timber treated with impregnations: antiseptics against rotting and fungus, moisture-repellent compounds, for example, machine oil or liquid bitumen so that the wood does not absorb moisture.

Temporary lightweight structures are usually installed on a columnar foundation. In uneven areas with large relief differences and swampy, shifting soil, on a slope, piles buried 200 mm below the freezing level of the soil in the region are preferable: screw, driven. Very rarely, a slab is poured for the installation of a greenhouse: floating or with adhesion ribs.

How to pour a monolithic concrete strip for installing a greenhouse

We dig a pit, 700 mm deep, pour in crushed stone, sandstone, and tamp the cushion. We lay the reinforcing frame, install the formwork, check the geometry, strengthen it with slopes, tighten it along the top so that the formwork does not fall apart under the load from the mortar, pour concrete, and bayonet it. Every 600-1000 mm we insert special fasteners or reinforcing bars with an outlet, and we will attach the frame to them. Leave for a month until the concrete is completely set. We remove the formwork, do vertical waterproofing: cover it with roofing felt, you can coat it thickly with bitumen mastic, do backfill ground.

Good to know: To install winter greenhouses, the base should be insulated with polystyrene foam boards or thermal insulation should be made by spraying polystyrene foam.

Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse on a block foundation; it is more practical to lay out an elevation made of cellular concrete on a strip monolithic base

Timber base

Installing a greenhouse on timber does not require much time or financial investment. We choose timber with ribs 100*100, 150*150 mm from hard wood. We saturate it with protective agents. We level the site, sprinkle it with crushed stone and sand, this stage can be eliminated, but it will ensure the durability of the structure.

Photo diagram of how to build a timber foundation for installing a greenhouse

Be sure to lay roofing felt in 2 layers, overlap the joints, and glue them with a blowtorch or bitumen. We assemble the base, the timber at the corners can be fastened:

on galvanized corners;
staples;
make cuts of ½ thickness and tighten with self-tapping screws or nails;
Drill holes and tighten with anchor bolts.

Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse on timber does not ensure the durability of the building

It is better to install the greenhouse on a concrete strip or beam, but it can also be installed on the ground. It is recommended to lay flat stones, bricks, and cellular concrete blocks under the base. Watch step-by-step instructions on how to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on the ground; the video will show you how to assemble the structure and secure the frame.

How to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on a foundation

Before installing a polycarbonate greenhouse on timber, tape or any other foundation, we cover the base with roofing felt - horizontal waterproofing.

Good to know: Serial arched greenhouses are produced with a height of 1900 mm, which is due to the technical parameters of the carbonate sheet. This height is inconvenient for working inside, because the height of the beds is added. For installation of structures, a foundation with a high base of 300-400 mm is recommended. It is also advisable to install winter greenhouses on a high foundation.

There are different ways How to properly install a greenhouse on a site, each manufacturer offers its own assembly schemes. Some recommend first assembling and installing the frame, and then sheathing it with polycarbonate, others advise assembling and sheathing the main components, installing it on the foundation, and then fastening it together.

How to properly install a polycarbonate greenhouse, a good idea for winter structures

Assembly and installation - step-by-step instructions

Consider installing an arched structure. For quick and high-quality assembly, two people are required, and the following tools are also needed:

roulette;
level;
corner;
screwdriver;
a knife for cutting polycarbonate, a stationery knife with a thick blade or a metal file will do;
fine abrasive for cleaning ends.

Before installation, lay out the parts and assemble the key components of the structure

We assemble the end parts. Place it horizontally on a flat surface. We remove the protective layer from the polycarbonate, place it on the end part, and attach it to thermal washers. We cut the coating along the contour of the element. We install the element on the foundation strictly vertically and fasten it to the base. Between them we install a transverse element of the base - the lower trim, and tighten it.

Next, install the arcs into specially provided mounts, insert one side, then the other. We install and fix transverse strips for structural rigidity. Using this algorithm we install the remaining elements.

Installation of arches strictly vertically, reinforced with transverse strips

Good to know: At the assembly stage, the fasteners should not be tightened too tightly in order to correct the geometry of the building if necessary. After final installation, all components will need to be tightened with force.

When the frame is installed and stretched, we cover the sides of the greenhouse with polycarbonate and screw it onto thermal washers. At the joints of the sheets we make an overlap of 100 mm, or connect through a joining profile, with 50 mm projections at the ends. Gaps between the frame and the covering material are unacceptable; the connection must be tight. As practice shows, before installing polycarbonate on a metal frame, you should strengthen a special sealing profile or stick double-sided tape.

The harvest in a greenhouse depends not only on the choice of high-quality planting material, types of fertilizers and proper care of plants. In order to make the conditions for growing indoors as favorable as possible, it is necessary to choose the right place for placement. Find out how to correctly position a greenhouse on a site according to the cardinal directions, at what distance from other buildings it should be located and what landscape characteristics of the site should be taken into account.

Basic principles for choosing a location for a greenhouse

Groundwater, topography, cardinal directions, soil type - the choice of the optimal location on the site for installing a greenhouse depends on these and many other features. Before you arm yourself construction tools and start work, you should find out what features the selected area has and how to correctly orient the greenhouse relative to the cardinal directions. This knowledge will help determine where it is best to place a greenhouse made of polycarbonate, film or glass.

Placement in front of the house

Analysis of landscape features of the site

To properly install a greenhouse, you must first study the following landscape features of the site.

Groundwater height. “High” water is a threat not only to the structure itself, but also to the plants being grown. The construction of some types, for example, a thermos greenhouse, requires deep burial. If groundwater is located high, the structure will be at risk of flooding.

For plants, “high” water is dangerous due to rotting of the roots, the appearance of moss and algae in the soil. Many crops die from excess moisture. A preliminary study of the groundwater map will help avoid this.

The minimum water depth is from 1.2 m and deeper

If there is no choice, and the greenhouse will be located on a plot with loved ones groundwater, then its construction will require a slab or pile type foundation. Drainage ditches dug along the greenhouse will also help remove excess groundwater.

Soil type. It is worth digging a small hole in the area and seeing what type of soil lies under the top layer of soil. The ideal option for constructing a greenhouse is sandy soil. If there is clay under the top layer, then before construction you should do preparatory work:

dig a pit;
fill it with gravel;
put a layer of sand on the gravel;
Lay fertile soil on the sand.

In areas with a slope, it must be installed on a foundation.

If this is not done, then moisture will constantly stagnate in the beds - clay practically does not allow water to pass through.

Site slope level. A flat area without slopes or depressions is an ideal place to install a greenhouse. The presence of a slope under the structure will lead to soil sliding, lack of moisture and uneven heating of the soil.

Technical solutions for problem areas

For a greenhouse on an area with close groundwater, a foundation and a drainage system are required. In conditions of high groundwater levels, two types of foundations are suitable: slab and pile.

Making a slab foundation is quite simple:

It is necessary to dig a pit with a depth of 0.1 to 0.3 m.
Pour sand onto the bottom and level it out.
Install the formwork according to the thickness of the slab.
Lay roofing felt or other material for waterproofing.
Prepare reinforcing material - metal reinforcement or crushed stone for a small pavilion.

Example of a slab base

A pile foundation allows you to raise a structure above the ground and protect it from moisture. This type of foundation has its drawbacks: there will always be airbag. It is capable of reducing the temperature inside, so pile foundation It is better to use for spring greenhouses.

Installing it is not difficult:

Drill holes in the ground at a distance of no more than 70 cm from each other.
Fill the bottom of the well with crushed stone and sand.
Install the piles using a building level.
Secure with wooden formwork.
Fill with concrete solution.
After the concrete has hardened, connect the piles with a metal pipe.

Drainage system

A pile foundation is also ideal for areas with a slope: with its help, the greenhouse can be leveled relative to the ground surface.

A drainage system will help protect against excess moisture. It consists of three parts:

water collector;
channels through which water will flow;
gravel or crushed stone drainage.

All these measures will allow you to organize closed soil even in problem areas.

Orientation of the greenhouse according to the cardinal directions

There are two ways to correctly position a greenhouse on a site:

from north to south – meridional location;
from east to west – latitudinal location.

The quantity and quality of sunlight, and therefore the future harvest, depends on how the greenhouse is located on the site along the cardinal points.

The installation must be done so that the plants receive maximum morning sunlight from different directions. Before noon, the atmosphere is “not condensed” and allows the sun’s rays to pass through well. At this time, their spectrum is very useful for plants and allows them to be illuminated without overheating.

At night, the temperature in the greenhouse decreases, so its heating should begin as early as possible, with the first rays of sunshine. In addition, the process of photosynthesis in plants is more active in the morning: at this time, sunlight will bring maximum benefit to their growth.

The meridional location is suitable only for spring-autumn greenhouses. If you use a greenhouse year-round, you should not place it from north to south: sunlight will illuminate the plants unevenly. For optimal lighting, it is recommended to raise the northern part by 15 degrees.

Placing the greenhouse structure from east to west will allow all these conditions to be met

Taking into account the climatic characteristics of the northern regions

If in the south and in middle lane The basic principles for choosing a suitable location for a greenhouse are the same, but for the northern regions it is necessary to take into account several additional nuances. In regions north of 60 degrees northern latitudes, any type of greenhouse should be placed latitudinally so that the plants do not suffer from lack of light.

The greenhouse structure will also need protection from cold winds. The internal microclimate largely depends on how the greenhouse is located on the site in relation to the wind. Cold air flows create drafts and can reduce the temperature inside the building by 5 degrees. There are three ways to protect a building from the wind:

install it close to buildings on the leeward side;
erect a protective screen;
grow a hedge.

Hedge - natural protection

A distance of 3 m will be sufficient so that the shadow does not fall on the greenhouse. The protective screen is installed like a regular fence made of metal or slate sheets along the entire greenhouse structure. Its height should not be more than 1.5 m.

It will take more time to build a hedge, but it will last much longer protective screen. For these purposes, you can plant a number of ornamental shrubs at a distance of 10-15 meters from the greenhouse.

Rules for installing a greenhouse on the site

The choice of the best place to place a greenhouse depends not only on landscape features and cardinal directions - it is important to position it correctly relative to buildings and trees. In order not to correct mistakes after construction, it is also worth learning how to install a greenhouse on a site in relation to the main communications: electricity and water supply.

Locations relative to buildings and trees

Many summer residents place a greenhouse on a plot next to their house or outbuildings. With this method of placement, you need to take into account what time of day the shadow from the buildings will fall on your partner. It is unacceptable to shade plants in the morning. In addition, in winter period Snow will accumulate between the building and the pavilion.

Consequences of heavy snow

If the area of the plot does not allow you to place the greenhouse away from buildings, then it is better to install it on the south side. A reflective film on the wall of the building that is adjacent to the greenhouse will help compensate for the lack of light.

It is not recommended to place a greenhouse structure between two buildings: due to the wind tunnel effect, there will be constant drafts in the passage. The trees will also cast shadows, and in the fall, leaves will begin to fall on the roof.

Taking into account the distance to communications

For greenhouses used in spring and autumn, the proximity of communications is not so important. It is enough to provide free access to it with bulky gardening tools in your hands - a wheelbarrow or buckets. Also, for your own convenience, it is advisable to have water for irrigation nearby.

The distance to communications is important to consider when constructing a year-round greenhouse. It must be equipped with lighting, irrigation and heating systems. The closer the main communications are, the more convenient it is to lead them to the greenhouse pavilion.

It is better to lay the water supply system together with the foundation and as close as possible to the central water pipe. This condition will help to significantly save time on laying pipes and consumables.

In the future, watering can be automated for convenience.

With the same calculation of the distance to the main communications, it is necessary to install lighting and heating systems. Pulling wires and pipes through the site is not only inconvenient, but sometimes it is not feasible due to obstacles in the form of trees, bushes or fences.

Examples of greenhouse location

Even with a wealth of theoretical knowledge, it is not always possible to imagine in which direction to install the greenhouse relative to the cardinal directions and the development of the site. By visually examining photos and diagrams, it is easier to understand all the rules and subtleties of placement.

Schemes for placing a greenhouse on the site

The diagram of the location of the greenhouse on the site according to the cardinal directions and relative to the building shows which location will be the most successful.

Layout of the greenhouse on the site

The first morning rays are very important for plants, so the best option is a plot white. Places marked in light green are suitable for spring greenhouses. But year-round greenhouses should be located as far as possible from buildings. This is because in winter the sun is low, so buildings and fences create longer shadows. If in summer the shadow from them does not fall on the greenhouse building, then in winter these same structures can shade it.

The latitudinal location of the greenhouse from east to west looks like this:

The ridges of the building face east and west, and the roof slopes face south and north.

Examples of successful and unsuccessful positions regarding trees and buildings.

Convenient location

The following diagram shows what consequences can occur in winter if the greenhouse is placed incorrectly.

Options for incorrect placement

Video: installing a greenhouse at the dacha

The video is an opportunity to see with your own eyes a finished greenhouse, hear real reviews and advice from their owners.

In the first video you can see how a pile foundation is made for a greenhouse structure - one of the foundation options for uneven areas.

Video: Foundation for a greenhouse

The second video is instructions for making a drainage system for draining excess moisture.

Video: Drainage system

The third video will introduce ways to place a greenhouse oriented to the cardinal points.

Video: Placement taking into account cardinal directions

Latest video – practical advice from the owner of a plot with a slope.

Video: Solving the problems of an uneven area

Of course, it is impossible to follow all the rules and take into account every detail when choosing a location for a greenhouse on a site, taking into account cardinal directions, wind and other nuances. Each site has its own characteristics. With a reasonable approach, you can choose optimal combination necessary conditions so that the harvest is rich and the building lasts for many years.

The key to a rich harvest of tomatoes, cucumbers and other heat-loving crops in the fall is a good quality greenhouse. For many years now, structures made from metal profiles and coated with polycarbonate have been in great demand on the horticultural market. Many summer residents, after reading reviews and looking at plant houses built on the plots of other gardeners, purchase such structures for their own garden. But it’s not enough to buy a structure – you still need to assemble it correctly. How is a polycarbonate greenhouse assembled? Fortunately, everything is not as difficult as it seems.

The key to successful operation, benefits from the purchase and the possibility of self-delivery/assembly of the greenhouse will largely depend on the correct choice. Therefore, before you go to the store and purchase a greenhouse, let’s get acquainted with the basic principles for choosing this design.

First, decide for what purpose you need a greenhouse and what you are going to grow in it, in what quantity - the type of structure and its size will depend on this. If you have a small summer cottage, and you plan to cultivate only a few bushes “for yourself,” then there is no point in purchasing a huge structure - you still won’t use it fully. If you decide to start a vegetable growing business, then you will have to buy not just a large greenhouse, but also an insulated one. And this will affect both its price and the complexity of installation - it is not always possible to assemble such a structure yourself.

A good greenhouse must be durable - every gardener knows this. But I also don’t want to spend a lot of money again. Therefore, consider what climate zone you live in. If your region does not experience strong winds and snowfalls, then you should not purchase a reinforced structure, which is much more expensive than the standard one, and is also difficult to assemble due to the large number of additional parts. In a region with strong wind and snow loads, on the contrary, it makes no sense to buy a standard greenhouse - here you just need a reinforced one so that in winter it does not collapse under the weight of the snow on it. By the way, the strength of the greenhouse depends largely on the shape of the roof.

Table. Types of greenhouse roofs.

Form	Characteristic
	The arched roof we are used to. Allows snow to roll off the surface relatively easily (but can still sometimes linger on the roof). The frame of such a greenhouse is often assembled from solid, rather than composite, arches.
	Such a roof used to be constantly made for ordinary wooden greenhouses. And the greater the slope angle, the better the snow rolls in winter. However, if the slopes are too steep, the greenhouse ends up either very high or with low side walls, which makes it difficult to carry out work inside it. Arches, as a rule, consist of two joining parts.
	A combination of arched and gable roofs. The best option. On such a roof, shaped like an arrowhead, snow rolls off easily. Such greenhouse structures are less likely than others to be damaged due to heavy snow or wind loads in winter. Arches usually consist of several parts that are joined together.
	More exotic forms of greenhouses. One resembles a ball of honeycombs, the second follows the shape of the Egyptian pyramids. Difficult to assemble with your own hands, but very durable and beautiful.

When choosing a greenhouse, do not forget that strength and durability will be influenced by factors such as the thickness and coating of the metal profile, density and distance between the main arcs and much more. Don't forget to pay attention to the quality of polycarbonate.

Note! Polycarbonate greenhouse coverings are often sold separately from the frame itself. When choosing polycarbonate, be sure to ask the seller whether the material has a layer that protects against ultraviolet radiation. If this is not available, do not take polycarbonate, as it will deteriorate very quickly under the influence of UV rays.

Also, if possible, try to choose a greenhouse whose frame has fewer components - the more solid parts, the stronger the structure. And don’t forget about covering the frame - galvanizing metal is much better than painting. If you believe the reviews of experienced gardeners, the paint often peels off (especially in places where parts are joined) and it has to be repainted annually to avoid premature corrosion.

Preparing the site and foundation

Before assembling the greenhouse on your summer cottage, you should also think about where and how this structure will be installed. First, you must choose a location for it. The greenhouse should be located in a well-lit area at a distance of at least several meters from houses, barns and other structures. It is also undesirable for tree branches to hang over the structure. Otherwise, during windy weather, something may fall on the greenhouse from above and damage it.

Be sure to level the surface of the soil - it is best to even remove the top layer. This will also get rid of weed seeds. And for the convenience of work, remove the soil in an area that is about a meter wider on each side of the rectangle you need.

Note! If the greenhouse does not stand level, then due to distortions it will collapse and wear out much faster than one installed on a leveled area. Yes, and on a crookedly installed frame it will not be possible to do it correctly.

It is worth thinking about the presence of a foundation. As manufacturers say, now most greenhouses do not need it, especially if they use them (greenhouses) only in the spring and summer. However, experienced gardeners still recommend making at least a basic foundation from timber. It’s very simple - just connect four pieces of timber with a cross-section of at least 10*10 cm using metal corners and self-tapping screws. The size of such a foundation should be equal to the base of the future greenhouse.

Attention! Don't forget to coat the wood with a protective agent that will protect it from mold and rot. Otherwise, the foundation will quickly become unusable. It is also recommended to lay roofing felt under the timber.

You can also do strip foundation made of concrete. It is more reliable than timber, but requires more financial and labor costs. By the way, a greenhouse that will be used in winter cannot do without it.

Polycarbonate greenhouse foundation - which one is better?

Any construction begins with a foundation. But first you need to choose its design. And for this, in turn, you need to know what foundations there are, how they differ from each other and how to make them. Read in more detail.

Assembling the frame is perhaps the most difficult and critical stage of installing a polycarbonate greenhouse. Many details (and the stronger and larger the greenhouse, the more elements are included in the delivery set) often baffle even experienced craftsmen, let alone ordinary gardeners. But it is still quite possible to understand the assembly process. Moreover, each delivery kit for any industrial greenhouse must contain installation instructions.

Attention! Be sure to assemble any greenhouse purchased in a store strictly according to the instructions. Otherwise, you risk getting a structure that either does not function properly or collapses very quickly.

Some general rules for assembling any polycarbonate greenhouse:

First, the end parts of the structure are assembled, then they move on to assembling the arcs;
the parts of the main frame arches (if they are collapsible) can be immediately connected correctly, and the individual elements of the greenhouse in the assembled frame are first “attached” with bolts and only after precise adjustment and alignment of the structure are they tightened; To level the structure, use a building level;
handles and other fittings are installed last;
the frame is dug into the ground or screwed to the foundation only after the final assembly and adjustment of the greenhouse;
if the frame of the greenhouse consists of a huge number of crossbars (both longitudinal and transverse), then first install the main, longitudinal ones, which will hold the end parts and the main arcs.

Greenhouse covering

After assembling the frame and installing it on the foundation or fixing it to the ground, they begin to cover the greenhouse with polycarbonate. The material is cleaned of the protective film, placed on the structure with the front side (protected from UV rays) up and attached to the arches using roofing screws and washers (usually at a distance of no more than 40-60 cm from each other). Sometimes galvanized tape can be additionally used.

Note! The ends of the greenhouse are usually sheathed before installation on the frame.

It is best to cover the greenhouse with polycarbonate in calm weather. This material is very light and “sails” well, so any gust of wind can damage it or simply prevent you from thoroughly fastening it.

Assembling a greenhouse using an example of an industrial model

As an example, let us consider in detail the assembly process of the “Usadba KU” greenhouse produced by the “Greenhouse Choice” company.

Step 1. The assembly of this greenhouse begins with cutting out the covering material. We cut one of the sheets lengthwise into two identical pieces using a knife.

Step 2. We stack the resulting segments on top of each other face to face and align them. We mark with a marker according to the dimensions indicated in the instructions and cut the folded pieces. We will get six pieces of material with which we will cover the end parts of the greenhouse.

Advice! For convenience and in order not to damage other sheets that will be needed intact, you can use a board, placing it along the cut line under the material.

Step 3. We lay the solid welded end parts of the greenhouse on a flat surface. We place small wooden blocks under their upper part and drill holes for the handles and their fastenings.

Step 4. Then we drill holes around the perimeter of the door and the end to attach the covering material. A 4 mm drill is suitable for this.

Step 5. We remove the protective film from the material and lay rectangular pieces of polycarbonate evenly on the door. We secure them with washers and roofing screws in the lower and middle parts of the sheet, leaving the upper part alone for now.

Step 6. We cut the polycarbonate at the junction of the window and the door.

Step 7 We place the upper part of the polycarbonate (window) directly on the door (by 1 cm) so that the window overlaps, and fasten it to it with self-tapping screws.

Step 8 Separate the upper part of the polycarbonate from the window. We place part of it (1 cm) under the polycarbonate screwed to the window and attach it to the upper part of the end.

Step 9 We cut out the polycarbonate on the protruding parts of the hinges on the doors and vents.

Step 10 We cut the material with a knife along the edge of the post on which the door hinges are attached. We also trim off the excess material at the top of the end.

Step 11 We take the pieces remaining for the side ends of the structure, clear them of the film, place them on the ends and align them with the bottom of the base. We attach it to the end part of the greenhouse. We cut off the excess around the edges.

Step 12 We screw on the handles and locking mechanisms.

Step 13 Let's unpack the base parts. Please note: this set comes with both finger and fingerless bases. There are also two ties.

Step 14 We arrange the parts so that the holes on the ties coincide with the places where the arcs are attached to the base.

Step 15 We connect the ties and the bases and fasten them with self-tapping screws.

Step 16 We place the bases on the foundation, level it, and strengthen it.

Step 17 We install solid arches.

Step 18 We fasten the arcs with ties to each other.

Step 19 We install the end parts of the greenhouse, connect them with ties and fasten them to the foundation with self-tapping screws.

Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem. Of course, drawing up a project and drawings require at least some knowledge of geometry, and the construction process itself requires minimal skills in working with tools. But all this is in a volume not exceeding what the average gardener possesses.

We will give step by step instructions How to properly install a polycarbonate greenhouse yourself. It also contains videos with useful information.

Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse in a country house

Installation of greenhouses on a foundation, if they are very small and simple in design, can be done without full design. A hand drawing will be sufficient.

The design of any buildings on a garden plot, including carbonate greenhouses, always begins with drawing up a sketch. First of all, we draw the frame of the building. This can be done by hand, without using a ruler. We decide on the type of structure, its approximate parameters, building materials. As for the dimensions, we first measure the construction site - we find out the area and geometry of the base of the future greenhouse. Next we set the height of the roof, side walls, and basement.

How to install a polycarbonate greenhouse, video and photo instructions

Now the foundation. Here it would also be nice to make a sketch, it can be in different forms, as in the figure below. What to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on, options:

block on a cement pad and
reinforced tape,
tape reinforced with a base.
Reinforced strip + piles.

They are suitable for any type of greenhouses, wooden, metal profiles, polypropylene pipes, etc. The only thing is that thermoses are better built on a strip base.

How to install a polycarbonate greenhouse on a foundation: two base options

Then we start making drawings. Arched greenhouses consist of duplicate parts, so few projections of the building are required:

Ends. If there are no differences in their design, then we make only one drawing.
Side view. If both sides are the same, the drawing is one.

Please note:in cases where the installation of a greenhouse is planned without a foundation, the racks with which the structure will be anchored into the ground are drawn along with the entire frame. If there is a foundation, we draw it separately: front, rear, side, top views.

Scheme - drawing of a polycarbonate greenhouse

Next we proceed to the drawings of the entrance doors and ventilation transoms. We make everything that is the same in a single copy, marking the number of units. We immediately set all the dimensions, installation locations of hardware, welding points, if they will be used. We conditionally mark the nature of hardware and fastening units. The same applies to drawings of the entire greenhouse frame.

Drawings of doors, vents

You can simplify your task by ordering a ready-made design. A complete set for a polycarbonate greenhouse will be delivered to the site; assembly and installation, a video of which is presented below, will take very little time. Instructions and installation rules are always included along with the rest of the documentation.

How to install a greenhouse on a site: installing the foundation

First of all, we clear the ground of debris and stones. We check the surface for level and level out uneven areas. Now you can start marking. The most convenient way to do this is with a system of pegs. The lace is pulled over the crossbars, and it is attached to them with a free loop so that you can change the distance between the contours.

How to properly install a greenhouse on a site: the work site is marked with a double-circuit system of pegs

We begin to dig trenches for the foundation. Their walls should be strictly vertical, the depth along the entire length should be the same. We set the trench parameters according to the drawing. The most common sizes for greenhouses up to 10 m2:

Depth – 50 cm.
Width – 30 cm.

We install formwork along the edges. If the casting of the base is planned at the same time as the foundation, then we raise the panels above the edges of the trench to its height of + 15 cm. For a foundation without a base, we make the formwork 20 cm high. The structure is assembled from boards, chipboard, sheets of metal, or any other available material. We make sure to install a system of supports that will prevent the panels from moving apart under the weight of the concrete.

How to install a polycarbonate greenhouse, dig foundation trenches with your own hands or using special equipment

The foundation is cast using a cement-based solution with the addition of crushed stone and sand. The proportions are:

Crushed stone – 6 parts.
Sand - 3 parts.
Cement (M400) – 1 part.

Pour enough mortar into the formwork to leave 10 cm to the edges. We cover the foundation with cellophane and leave it to harden for 36 hours, after which we begin further construction.

Please note:The given recipe is suitable for most greenhouses except industrial ones that have a lot of weight - their installation requires a more durable solution. To get it, we simply reduce the amount of crushed stone, take 5 parts instead of 6.

How to install a polycarbonate greenhouse: foundation before stripping

The next photo is a view of the foundation after stripping, ready for installation of the greenhouse. To make it more convenient to maintain plants, the beds should be high. Therefore, along the aisles we remove a 20 cm layer of soil - it can be placed in the space of the beds. As a result, the passages will become deeper, and you will hardly have to bend over to weed or loosen.

After stripping the formwork, we begin installing the polycarbonate greenhouse on the foundation

Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, video contains useful tips on choosing a location for the structure and its installation.

Installation of a polycarbonate greenhouse frame

Further installation of the polycarbonate greenhouse on the beam - strapping is done using anchor bolts (16 mm). Under the timber (120 x 50 mm) we must lay strips of roofing material, which will provide the necessary moisture insulation. We make the distance between the bolts 50-60 cm. We tighten it gradually, checking the building level. Where necessary, we place pieces of wood or metal. We tighten the hardware so that the harness does not “walk.”

How to install a greenhouse: installation of timber frames

Installation of the greenhouse on the beam is done using steel corners - one on opposite sides of the profile pipe. We first mark the timber so that the installation points on both sides are at the same level. Just as with the installation of the harness, fixing the arches should be accompanied by level measurements. Only this time we look not at horizontality, but at verticality of the elements.

How to properly install a polycarbonate greenhouse; frame profiles are attached to the timber with steel corners

Please note:For connection points of elements, it is most convenient to use crab clamps. They are T-shaped, three- and four-sided, and are tightened with screws. If you are installing an industrial greenhouse, then more solid fastenings will be needed. In this case, you can use through bolts or a welding machine.

Fastening with a crab clamp

Installation of polycarbonate

We begin installation of the covering from the ends from which the door and window frames have been previously removed. For convenience, we screw the rectangular sheets as is, without cutting out a semicircle according to the shape of the sides. We cut the already fixed material, bypassing the contours of the frame from the outside, and also cutting out a hole for the door and/or window. For such work, an ordinary hacksaw is used. We cover the removed transoms with polycarbonate and hang them in their original place.

Then we proceed to install the cellular polycarbonate on the rest of the frame. The sheets are laid crosswise, without overlap. The joints are formed with a connecting profile, which will ensure a tight connection of the coating. Special hardware for polycarbonate is used - thermal washers with a sealing gasket.

Installing polycarbonate on the end sides of the greenhouse

Sheets of covering material are attracted to each arch in several places. This is common practice, but there is an alternative installation method that avoids multiple holes in the sheets. Everything is very simple: take narrow, long strips of aluminum, and overlap the greenhouse over the polycarbonate with them. The required tightness is ensured by a screw, which can be tightened or loosened at your discretion. The principle of operation of such clamps is clear from the following photo.

How to properly install a polycarbonate greenhouse, a good idea for installing covering material

Please note:polycarbonate is sold with a protective film on the surface. This protection is removed immediately before installing the material or immediately after. You cannot delay this, because under the influence of ultraviolet radiation the glue on which the film is held will set. It will become almost impossible to remove the latter.

Ready greenhouse

The installation of a polycarbonate greenhouse on the ground has been completed; the video contains instructions for working with thermal washers.

Installing a polycarbonate greenhouse is justified only in case of seasonal use. Its main disadvantage is that it loses 10% of heat, so it is not suitable for those owners who want to grow plants in a greenhouse all year round. But for seasonal use it does not need to be equipped with heaters, because solar heat is perfectly accumulated in a greenhouse covered with polycarbonate sheets. Metal structures for the frame of such a greenhouse can be bought in a store and assembled directly on the site with your own hands. So let's talk about how to install a polycarbonate greenhouse.

If a summer resident intends to operate the greenhouse only from May to September, it is better for him to refuse to build a foundation. In addition to significant cost savings, this will also bring time savings - after all, you can install a lightweight polycarbonate greenhouse in just a couple of days with your own hands, perhaps with one assistant. If necessary, it can be moved to another place, and at the end of the summer season, simply disassembled, so as not to come in winter specifically to remove snow from its roof.

To prevent a strong gust of wind from causing damage to the farm, a lightweight greenhouse is secured in the ground using metal or wooden T-shaped fasteners. You can make the bottom trim from wooden beam To make it heavier, you can bury such a beam or log in the ground and attach the base of the greenhouse to it - but this will turn out to be a kind of foundation that will deprive it of mobility and increase the consumption of time and money. Installation should be carried out in the fall after all agricultural work has been completed, or early spring to calmly move around the site without fear of trampling plants. The air temperature must be at least 10 degrees, otherwise the polycarbonate will not be plastic.

Choosing a fertile place

It is very important to choose the right location for the greenhouse. The area should be flat, not shaded, and there should be no buildings or large trees at a distance of 3 meters. Trees not only create shade, their root system will interfere with the development of plants in the greenhouse, and nearby buildings contribute to the appearance of drafts.
The greenhouse must be oriented to the cardinal points. The correct location would be from east to west in length, then one wide side will always face south, and this will ensure greatest number sunlight.

Another advantage of a mobile greenhouse is that if you choose the wrong location, it’s only for one year; next year you won’t repeat the same mistake.

What to do with the soil

When choosing a location, you need to examine the soil. To do this, it is recommended to dig a special hole with dimensions of 70 cm by 70 cm and a depth of 1 meter 20 cm. Now you need to determine the type of soil. This is easy to do if you take a handful of it and try to make a ball. It was possible to roll a ball or sausage - there was a lot of clay, but it didn’t work out - sandy soil. Sand is a very good basis for greenhouse soil: it allows water to pass through, and excess water will prevent the roots from rotting. If the soil is clayey, it will have to be replaced.

To replace the soil under the greenhouse, you need to dig a pit at least 70 cm deep and fill it with 40 centimeters of sand, leaving the top 30 cm to be filled with a fertile mixture. In addition, it would be good to know the depth of the groundwater. If they are found higher in the pit, you will have to make drainage grooves to drain excess water.

Installation instructions

If the location for the greenhouse has already been chosen, all the frame elements are made by hand or purchased ready-made and brought to the site, you can begin installation. You need to start by preparing the site. At the selected location with prepared soil, it is recommended to mark a site of the required size. This is done using wooden pegs and rope. Next, the site is leveled, the turf and protruding mounds and mounds are removed. It is advisable to check the horizontality using a construction spirit level. There should be no height differences of more than 5 cm. Particular attention is paid to a half-meter strip along the perimeter. The rest can be straightened out later.

To determine the outer edge of the trench, measure 30 cm from the marked line and draw a line with a shovel or pin on the ground. We dig a trench 30 cm wide and depth, which depends on the length of the greenhouse legs. We calculate so that the bottom frame of the frame rises 10 cm above the ground. If we are going to install the greenhouse on a beam, then the depth and width of the trench depends on the size of the beam. The bottom of the trench needs to be compacted a little and checked for horizontalness so that the frame does not warp later.

Now is the time to start protecting the greenhouse from weeds and pests. To do this, you need to line the outer wall of the trench with some hard material, for example, slate or roofing felt. They say that in 3-4 years the wheatgrass will overcome such an obstacle. So, if the greenhouse remains in the same place, the protection will have to be updated.

Video “Instructions for installing a greenhouse”

Step-by-step assembly of the frame

Anyone who is determined to assemble a greenhouse with their own hands will need a screwdriver and a wrench. If you bought a ready-made greenhouse, then the kit must include all the necessary fasteners and an assembly diagram. If you are able to weld all the elements of the frame with your own hands, it means that you have already made a drawing, calculated and purchased the elements necessary for installation.

It is correct to start assembling the frame from the ends. Door and window frames and reinforcing strips are attached to the end arches. Then the parts of the lower harness are fastened and the T-shaped legs are attached to it. The harness with supports is installed in the trench, and the harness should be 10 cm above the ground. Now you need to check the horizontal installation, adjust if necessary and proceed to further assembly.

If the greenhouse is mounted on a beam, then the frame profiles must be attached to the beam with steel corners. And lay the roofing material not just on the side, but also under the timber itself. This will provide moisture insulation. In addition, all structural elements that will be placed in the ground must be treated with bitumen - this will protect them from corrosion and pests.

Then the remaining arcs of the frame are attached to the harness, and polycarbonate is installed on top. You need to carefully examine and attach it so that the light-protective film is on the outside; it will need to be removed before installation or immediately after it. Otherwise, ultraviolet radiation will enhance the effect of the glue. The installation of polycarbonate also begins from the ends (before this you need to remove the door and window frames). It is more convenient to attach the entire rectangular sheet, without cutting it to shape, but to cut out the already attached one with a hacksaw, go around the outline of the frame along the outside and cut out holes for doors and vents in the same way. The removed frames must be closed and reattached with polycarbonate.

When installing polycarbonate on the rest of the frame, the sheets must be laid crosswise and without overlapping. Use a special connecting profile to form the joints. Usually it is attached to each arch in several places, but it can be done differently. Cover the entire greenhouse with narrow long strips of aluminum and tighten them with a screw to the required density.

All that remains is to lay the soil around the perimeter 5 cm above the base; this will also be a barrier to the movement of insects. But for a greenhouse without a foundation, you can make an additional frame from timber. Timber treated with drying oil or bitumen will be an excellent barrier to pests. In addition, a greenhouse weighted with timber will definitely not be damaged by gusts of wind. A greenhouse that remains assembled for the winter will have to be cleared of snow, otherwise the polycarbonate may crack. It is advisable to leave the doors open and let the ground freeze.