What can you plant after? Crop rotation of vegetable crops: what to plant next, how to plan crops correctly.

Many gardeners know about the rules of crop rotation. During its life in the garden during the season, each vegetable consumes certain nutrients. Having “settled” in one bed for many years and pulling the same elements out of the ground, this vegetable will inevitably lose its former yield. In addition, pathogens characteristic of this species will accumulate in the soil.

Potatoes produce great products only when the green plant is maintained to its natural maturity. Therefore, only if diseases and pests are fought. To do this right, potato growers must support close connection with specialist engineers in community agricultural centres. From them, find out when is the best time to fight, what products, how to make treatment, what products are provided free of charge by the Ministry agriculture and food, etc. Unlike other jobs, disease and pest control products vary, and the occurrence of pests and diseases varies from year to year, depending on climatic conditions year.

Some crops greatly deplete the soil, for example, the well-known beets and cabbage. There are crops that enrich the soil with nitrogen, such as legumes. After them, any vegetable will grow well.

In order to get a wonderful harvest on your plot from year to year, you need to know and follow the rules of crop rotation, that is, what can be planted after. Crop rotation will help to significantly increase the return on land use without significant investment.

Because of this, potato growers must liaise with specialists from municipal agricultural centers. Harvesting potatoes when we need them for consumption does not pose much of a problem. We collect 2-3 nests and send them to the kitchen. But the final harvest, in the fall, we must know that it requires compliance with certain conditions. First of all, when they come out of the ground, the tubers are not retracted. This increases their resistance during winter storage. Usually, removal occurs before lunch, and the tubers are collected after eating.

According to the rules of rotation, all crops are conditionally divided into 4 groups, according to the type of plant part consumed as food:

  • Leaves (greens, cabbage, lettuce, spinach). Sensitive to soil nitrogen content.
  • Fruits (pumpkin, eggplant, zucchini). Demanding on phosphorus.
  • Root vegetables (onions, potatoes, carrots). Requires a high potassium content in the soil.
  • Legumes saturate the soil with nitrogen. Their use is especially effective for establishing a complete crop rotation.

What grows after potatoes: many options

The peculiarity of the potato crop is that during the growing season it takes phosphorus and potassium from the soil in sufficient quantities. large quantities. Therefore, after harvesting, it is necessary to compensate for the lack of these substances in the soil by applying appropriate fertilizers. A mandatory activity is harvesting potato tops, as they contribute to the contamination of the soil with various diseases.

If there is more time left for light, the bark of the tubers turns green and forms toxic substance for people and animals. Another thing that should be known is that during tense tubercles, we must take care not to get sick, cut or other injuries, because it also harms healthy people who need to hold on in winter. Both the wounded and the young are pulled separately and immediately thrown as animal feed, best cooked. There are many other, more wonderful works that potato farmers should know, but we will write about them in future issues.

It is well known that after potatoes you cannot grow eggplants, tomatoes, physalis, and peppers, since all nightshades are affected by the same pests and diseases. Spores of diseases such as late blight, macrosporiosis, and various rots accumulate in the soil.

Potatoes are not suitable as a precursor for wild strawberries. It takes at least three years to set up a strawberry plantation in place of potato plantings.

To stew tubers, temperatures close to those in the field are gradually created by opening doors and windows, possibly fans or air conditioning, in storage areas 2 weeks before the planting date. The soil, looking good from the fall, perhaps prepared and even with pre-formed beads, should be dried, crushed and well crushed.

But, depending on the natural content in nutrients ah and based on agrochemical mapping, only the difference is applied until necessary. Typically, an average nutrient-rich soil can support the production of 8-14 tons of early potatoes without fertilization. Phosphorus levels are lower than in autumn or seed potatoes, as more phosphorus fertilization results in more nest tubers with slower growth and therefore later production.

  1. In the spring, it is best to populate former potato fields with radishes, spinach, lettuce, radishes, and beets.
  2. Also suitable different types cabbage, onions, garlic, cucumbers.
  3. Beans, peas, zucchini, and pumpkin will feel good next year after potatoes.


Fertilizers are applied only once before planting. High fertilization while planting is not recommended for pre-cultivated potatoes because after solubilization, topical chemical fertilizers form a concentrated solution that can affect the reconstructed ribs.

Manure fertilizer should be applied in the fall. Pre-crushed tubers can be installed manually, semi-mechanically or fully mechanized. On small surfaces, it is preferable to apply the fruit manually after first opening the gutters using a cultivator. Thus, barely formed hips are better protected, and the location of the tubers in the nest is more correct.

Green crops can be planted after potatoes, but still the best option will place them elsewhere.

You can sow the area after potatoes with rye, lupine, and oats. These herbs can significantly improve soil fertility by restoring the balance of nutrients in it.

How to care for “settled” potatoes: soil, fertilizers, disinfection

Potatoes can grow in one place for no more than three years. But, if it is not possible to change the place where potatoes are planted, you need to take measures to restore soil fertility. Along with this, measures are being taken to replenish the mineral composition of the upper soil layer and disinfect it.

Semi-mechanized planting can be done with machines similar to planted seedlings. Workers place the tubers at the bottom of the machine, and the machine closes the potatoes and finishes the bilinear profile. Mechanized planting has machines with rubber belt spreaders that produce high quality planting.

The distance between rows should not exceed 60 cm, because the growing season is short and this is enough space for nutrition. Cutting is carried out only in big potatoes with well-developed spines in most eyes. The section is longitudinal and scarification of the incision is required before planting.

After harvesting, you need to carry out deep digging of the soil with a full rotation of the layer. This technique promotes better soil freezing and the destruction of pests and potato pathogens.

In the spring, when the soil warms up, it is dug up again and fertilizers are applied.

1 kg of potatoes takes from the soil approximately 1-1.2 g of magnesium, 2 g of phosphoric acid, 8-9 g of potassium oxide, 3-4 g of nitrogen, as well as microelements: manganese, boron, zinc, copper, etc.

Before the potatoes rise, a few minutes of rehabilitation work precedes the herbicide before emergence. This aspect is very important considering that metribuzin and linuron film products must be placed evenly on a coarse and crushed layer. In this case, before harvesting, we no longer need to have problems with weeds.

In the absence of herbicides, weed control can be achieved mechanically by easy work, without disturbing the position of tubers and stolons in the formation. The pre-inoculation method can be improved by forced rooting carried out in the reed layers after tuber germination, where a 5 cm thick mixture of soil, soil, sand and peat is placed in successive layers.

To replenish these elements, manure or compost is added to the soil for digging. Mineral fertilizers It is better to apply it when planting in furrows and holes.

Potato plantings are responding very well. It contains microelements that potatoes need to grow. It is also necessary to note its disinfecting effect.

To improve the soil after harvesting early potatoes, you can then embed them into the soil.

The nutrient mixture is moistened with a solution of 60 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium salt per 10 liters of water. Growing spring potatoes. Your garden can be greatly enriched in March! Now is the time to start an early potato crop. Do you want to cook with new potatoes from May to June? Here's what you need to know about growing potatoes in early spring!

Planting spring potatoes. Potato cultivation is very simple. You only need crowned tubers and a mixture of elements favorable for their harmonious development. First, remember that planting spring potatoes begins only after the ground has thawed. Even if March has been well established, do not rush to place the tubers in the soil if the temperature remains low.

Good predecessors - effective relocation of potatoes to a new place

Potatoes cannot be grown in beds that were previously planted with nightshade crops.

  1. Cabbage is a good predecessor for potatoes.
  2. Potatoes also grow well after legumes.
  3. It can be successfully cultivated as a successor to root crops.
  4. Potatoes will love the place where cucumbers used to grow.
  5. Beds after green crops are also suitable for planting potatoes.

Good and bad neighbors of potatoes

For the success of growing vegetables, it is also necessary to take into account the principles of a healthy neighborhood.

When the temperature is high enough, dig up the soil where you plan to grow potatoes and, if necessary, add natural fertilizers to increase the amount of nutrients that the potato crop will have access to.

It is important to remember that in order to have large and healthy potatoes, it would be ideal to choose a well-lit area of ​​the garden. Buds need to be customized. Cover the basket of potatoes with more soil, forming small mussels. When the plant reaches a height of about 15 cm, it lands around it, covering the stem in half. This will ensure that you have a richer potato harvest.

The convenience of this approach is that it:

  • prevents harmful substances from accumulating in the soil;
  • promotes the most complete use of fertilizers;
  • Helps effectively fight diseases and pests.

Based on this concept, you can make a list of plants with which cohabitation is most beneficial for potatoes.

Harvesting spring potatoes. You'll be able to burst out with the first delicious early potatoes from the moment the plant produces its first flowers. Remember, however, that at this stage the tubers are still small. Remove all potato nests from the garden when the plant wilts. At this stage, the tubers will have reached maturity and will be ready for harvesting and subsequent storage in the basement, not until they have dried in the sun. Possible storage while the tubers remain wet will cause them to rot.

Finally, if you are planning a new potato crop, it is important to remember that successive planting of tubers in the same area will not produce the expected results. In such circumstances, it is very important to indicate crop rotation so that the tubers grow harmoniously, capturing generous sizes.

Many years of experience in joint planting of potatoes with other crops have shown:

  1. Neighborhood with potatoes is UNDESIRABLE for cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkins;
  2. Potatoes are “friends” with cabbage and eggplants;
  3. Goes well with onions and corn. Their beneficial effect on potatoes is known;
  4. A wonderful neighbor for beans - it protects it from bruchus, it “treats” it with nitrogen and protects it from such a malicious pest as the Colorado potato beetle;
  5. Excellent neighbors for potatoes are spinach and horseradish.

All these crops are partners because they do not interfere with each other, consuming nutrients from different soil horizons.

Have you grown grains in your own garden before? Find out that the land can become an ideal base for a future potato crop! This affects not only the phase of the moon, but its contents of the zodiac sign. Waning moon, herbal products for planting flowers, sowing root crops.

Root crops are recommended to be sown during the waning moon. Time, and pruning. Just don’t fertilize just replanting young plants - they can damage the roots. Planting, transplanting, and also within two days after the new moon to the full moon, with the exception of the day before. According to astrologers, this time the transplant will naturalize even old or very spoiled plants.

Satellite flowers

Flowers are not in last place on the list of useful companion plants. They know how to not only delight the eye with their beauty, but also protect vegetable plantings from diseases and pests.


4.2 (84%) voted 5 Saturday, May 12, 2012 10:53 + to quote book

Crop rotation table When planning future crops, you must first take into account order of crop rotation.

Experience shows that the new moon and full moon are not suitable for planting and replanting work. During the full moon, most of the juice is in the upper part of the plant, stems and fruits, and during the new moon, on the contrary, it is underground - tubers and roots. In this regard, I came to the conclusion of drilling lunar calendar. In addition, the working range of gardening is important to note that the zodiac sign is the moon, because all signs are divided into fertile and fertile and barren.

Plant development, water and fertilizer absorption efficiency, soil fertility are highly dependent on the phases of the moon, and which of the 12 zodiac signs the moon is on. He goes through each character for a little more than two days. This is 1.5 days before and after the actual moment of the new moon. Gravitational lunar and solar energy The “addition” of juice to pressure and concentration, as well as the root and stem activity of the biofield, is the greatest. On new lunar days, damage to the roots should be avoided. The upper, lower, part of the plant dies, the circulation of juices and growth stop.

After all, proper crop rotation allows you to avoid damage by pests and diseases, as well as maintain soil fertility. Conversely, when growing the same vegetables for several years in a row, the supply of nutrients in the beds is depleted and soil infections accumulate.

Experienced gardeners always take this factor into account, which allows them to obtain higher yields. In order not to get confused in the “five hundred square meters”, it is worth drawing a plan for your garden for the coming summer and a rough planting plan for next year, observing the correct rotation order vegetable crops.

Timely pruning of plants, weed control and spraying against pests, removal of diseased and dry branches, pinched, thin plants. By the way, all these tasks that will be carried out the day before the new moon and the day after, on the day of the new moon, are best not to touch the plant. Not recommended for sowing, planting, replanting, deep loosening of roots, grafted with abundant watering. These factors create favorable conditions for plant growth, in addition to gradually increasing both roots and leaves. air signs Predominate in poetry - Gemini, Libra, Aquarius.

Cabbage

Potato

The best predecessors for potatoes are cabbage and various root vegetables. A bad predecessor for potatoes is tomato, since these crops have common pests and pathogens. Potatoes should be grown in the same place no earlier than -3.

cucumbers

Tomatoes

According to the rules of agricultural technology, you cannot grow tomatoes after potatoes, since - we repeat - the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good predecessors for tomatoes - colored and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root vegetables and onions. If you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, then the soil in this area becomes acidic, so every autumn, before deep digging of the soil, you need to add fluff lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq.m.), so how tomatoes grow best in neutral soils (pH 6.5-7).

Timely sowing, transplanting and planting fast-growing “top” - ground edible part of annual plants, the seeds of which are surrounded, for example, green-leaf and cabbage plants, herbs, annual flowers, roses, lawn, hay grass. It is also useful to brine cabbage. The dominant element of fire signs is Aries, Leo, Sagittarius.

This is usually good time for sowing and planting, especially two or three days before the full moon. He noted that the “closer” the full moon is to planting or transplanting plants, the less their stems will spread. Thus, one can take the Pisa planting of crops. During this period, plants absorb more water from the soil, so they need frequent watering.

Beet

Growing beets in one place should be done no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, and legumes. It is not advisable to plant beets after vegetables from the goosefoot family (chard, spinach, and again beets).

Onion

Garlic

You can grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise contamination of the soil with stem nematode cannot be avoided. It is better to start garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early-harvested crops (except onions).

Carrot

Eggplant

Strawberries

Strawberry

Together is better

However, not all vegetables can be placed in close proximity, since not all crops have a beneficial effect on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatile substances released by plants.

Carrot Onion

Peas and vegetable beans potatoes cucumber- dill and corn, radishes will benefit from proximity to watercress, and peas - with leaf mustard.

It has been proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and black currants have a beneficial effect on each other. You can make the following bed: plant parsley, lettuce, and sow garlic between them.

As for the undesirable neighborhood, then can't be planted next to each other potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin. If legumes are placed next to onions, both crops will be suppressed.

In addition, if space allows, select a small area for growing trasiderates: clover, lupine, alfalfa and others. In this way, you will give the earth a rest and gain strength for growing vegetable crops. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this knowledge.

By following the listed rules, you will be able to get very good harvests of vegetables and berries! Very soon, gardeners will have spring planting. But while it’s March, there’s still time to plan plantings for the next summer season.

What to plant for what- this is the topic of our conversation today. When planning future crops, we must first take into account order of crop rotation. This is very important for the future harvest.

After all, proper crop rotation allows you to avoid damage by pests and diseases, as well as maintain soil fertility. Conversely, when growing the same vegetables for several years in a row, the supply of nutrients in the beds is depleted and soil infections accumulate. Experienced gardeners always take this factor into account, which allows them to obtain higher yields. In order not to get confused in the “five hundred square meters”, it is worth drawing a plan of your garden for the coming summer and a rough planting plan for next year, observing the correct order of alternating vegetable crops.

Cabbage

You cannot plant cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables (radishes, radishes) in the same place earlier than after 2-3 years. It is better to place white cabbage after potatoes, tomatoes, and onions; It is permissible to plant after beans, peas, carrots and beets.

Potato

The best predecessors for potatoes are cabbage and various root vegetables. A bad predecessor for potatoes is tomato, since these crops have common pests and pathogens. Potatoes should be grown in the same place no earlier than every 2-3 years.

cucumbers

For cucumbers, you should look for a new place every year. They are placed after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also grow them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.

Tomatoes

According to the rules of agricultural technology, you cannot grow tomatoes after potatoes, since - we repeat - the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good precursors for tomatoes are cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root vegetables and onions are acceptable. If you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, the soil in this area becomes acidic, so every fall you need to deep dig the soil add fluff lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq.m.), since tomatoes grow better on neutral soils (pH 6.5-7).

Beet

Growing beets in one place should be done no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, and legumes. It is not advisable to plant beets after vegetables from the goosefoot family (chard, spinach, and again beets).

Onion

Onions should not be planted in one place for more than three or four years in a row. The best predecessors of onions are crops to which large doses were applied organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes. On heavy clay soils, onions will not produce a good harvest; they prefer light, loose, fertile soils and good light.

Garlic

You can grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise soil contamination with stem nematode cannot be avoided. It is better to plant garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early-harvested crops (except onions).

Carrot

Sown after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.

Eggplant

The best predecessors for eggplants are cucumber, onion, early ripe cabbage, perennial herbs. You cannot plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.

Strawberries

The best predecessors for strawberries: radishes, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radishes, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, as well as flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard and phacelia (also known as honey plants).

Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers, are not suitable as predecessors. After them, the plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.

Strawberry

It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radishes, peas, parsley, and garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as predecessors. Strawberries should not be placed after all species of the Asteraceae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of ranunculaceae.

Together is better

Many years of experience and ingenuity of gardeners suggested another correct solution - joint planting. This is both convenient and allows you to get large assortment vegetables

However, not all vegetables can be placed in close proximity, since not all crops have a beneficial effect on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatile substances released by plants. It is important to follow some rules here.

Carrot can be planted together with peas, marjoram, and onions (this is even useful, since joint planting with onions repels the carrot fly). Onion goes well with beets, chicory, and carrots.

Peas and vegetable beans get along well with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon and watermelon. TO potatoes it's quite possible to get hooked vegetable beans and sweet corn, to cucumber- dill and corn, radishes will benefit from proximity to watercress, and peas - with leaf mustard. It has been proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and black currants have a beneficial effect on each other.

You can make the following bed: plant parsley, lettuce, and sow garlic between them. As for the undesirable neighborhood, can't be planted next to each other potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin. If legumes are placed next to onions, both crops will be suppressed. In addition, if space allows, allocate a small area for growing trasiderates: clover, lupine, alfalfa and others.

In this way, you will allow the earth to rest and gain strength for growing vegetable crops. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this knowledge. By following the listed rules, you can get very good harvests of vegetables and berries! Spring sowing has begun in the fields and vegetable gardens.

Gardeners plant cabbage, onions, eggplants and other vegetables and berries. However, when planting, it is necessary to take into account many factors that at first glance seem insignificant. For example, some crops absolutely cannot be planted nearby.

Also, the same vegetables cannot be grown in the same bed for several years. But you also need to change the location of plants according to the rules. How exactly, the experienced one told gardener from Krasnodar Lyudmila Taranova.

Helpful and not so helpful neighbors

Plant compatibility must be taken into account. Some of them “help” each other, others, on the contrary, harm. It's all about the special chemicals that plants release during their life - they have different effects on their neighbors.

How to Plant Potatoes! A LOT of tubers in a bush! Tested!

See our infographic for details.

Making a plan for the beds

Judging by the experience of gardeners, the plant should not have a permanent place in the garden bed. If you plant a crop from year to year without changing its location, problems will arise with both the harvest and the soil. Proper planning of the garden area can correct the situation.

Cabbage

You cannot plant cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables (radishes, radishes) in the same place earlier than after 2-3 years. It is better to place white cabbage after potatoes, tomatoes, and onions; It is permissible to plant after beans, peas, carrots and beets.

Potato

The best predecessors for potatoes are cabbage and various root vegetables. A bad predecessor for potatoes is tomato, since these crops have common pests and pathogens. Potatoes should be grown in the same place for no more than 3 years.

cucumbers

For cucumbers, you should look for a new place every year. They grow best after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also plant them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.

Related article What you need to know if you are planning your first vegetable garden

Tomatoes

Accordingly, you cannot grow tomatoes after potatoes. Since, we repeat, the diseases and pests of these crops are the same.

Good predecessors for tomatoes are cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root vegetables and onions are acceptable. By the way, if you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, the soil in this area becomes acidic. Therefore, every autumn, when deep digging the soil, you need to add fluff lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq. m), since tomatoes grow better in soils with neutral acidity (pH 6.5-7).

Beet

Growing beets in one place should be done no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, and legumes. It is not advisable to plant beets after vegetables from the goosefoot family (chard, spinach).

Harrowing potatoes after planting.

Onion

Onions should not be planted in one place for more than three or four years in a row. The best predecessors of onions are crops that received large doses of organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, and potatoes. On heavy clay soils, onions will not produce a good harvest; they prefer light, loose, fertile soils and good light.

Article on the topic The most common myths about Kuban vegetables and fruits

Garlic

You can grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise contamination of the soil with stem nematode cannot be avoided. It is better to plant garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early-harvested crops (except onions).

Carrot

Sown after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.

Eggplant

The best predecessors for eggplants are cucumber, onion, early ripening cabbage, and perennial herbs. You cannot plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.

Strawberries

The best predecessors for strawberries are radishes, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radish, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, as well as flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard and phacelia (they are also honey plants).

Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers, are unsuitable as predecessors. After them, the plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.

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Strawberry

It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radishes, peas, parsley, and garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as predecessors.

Strawberries should not be placed after all species of the Asteraceae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of buttercups. In addition, if space allows, allocate a small area for growing green manure herbs: clover, lupine, alfalfa and others. This will give the earth rest, the soil will gain strength for growing vegetable crops.

Savior flowers

It turns out that the crop can be saved from diseases and pests not only with chemicals, but also with flowers, which should be planted next to the vegetables. Both beautiful and practical. They will provide good protection against pests marigold.

They are good to plant not only in flower beds next to the window, but also along the perimeter of the garden and between the rows. Marigolds, thanks to their properties, repel nematodes from tomatoes and potatoes, save strawberries from weevils, and also drive away onion flies, cutworms and cabbage whites. Marigolds protect flax, clover and wheat from fusarium. To improve the soil on the site and, in the meantime, scare away mole crickets, Before plowing the land, you can scatter finely chopped marigold stems.

An infusion of marigolds protects peas, cabbage, apple trees, cherries, plums, currants and gooseberries from aphids. To prepare the infusion, take ground part plants, chop them using pruning shears and fill the bucket halfway. Fill with warm (about 40-60 degrees) water and leave for two days.

Then filter, add 40 g of liquid soap (so that the infusion does not drain, but remains on the plants) and pour the mixture into the sprayer. Treatment rates: for the garden - 2 liters per 10 square meters; for one bush or tree under 6 years old - also 2 liters; on fruit trees and shrubs older than 6 years - 6-8 liters.

Helps against whitefly and whitefly nasturtium. Flowers can be planted next to tomatoes and cabbage. Nasturtium is also useful for fruit trees.

Plant two or three bushes under a cherry, peach or apple tree. In autumn, flowers can be crushed and buried in the tree trunk. This is an excellent green fertilizer.

Chamomile-pyrethrium called a natural insecticide. If planted next to cabbage, the vegetables will not be afraid of cabbage cutworm and white moth caterpillars, as well as aphids. Try planting pyrethrum near the trunks of an apple tree in the spring.

The apple tree will be reliably protected from the codling moth, aphids and other pests. Phlox's proximity to chamomile will save you from nematodes. Rodents also don’t like pyrethrum. There is another beautiful protector of vegetables.

The Colorado potato beetle, for example, does not tolerate smell calendula. Experienced gardeners advise planting calendula next to potatoes. Some people do this - in the spring they plant a row of potatoes, a row of calendula seeds, and so on.

If potatoes are already planted, plant calendula somewhere nearby. In the fall, plow it into the ground where you plan to plant potatoes next year. Calendula - good green manure. The flower will also save asters from fusarium, and rose bushes from nematodes.

Lavender will protect the area from ants and aphids, and the house from real moths. Give up completely chemicals defense is not worth it, but try to focus on natural defenders.

What can you plant after?

Hello, dear readers! In the comments in the spring, I am often asked questions about the rules of crop rotation, that is, about what can you plant after? after carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, onions, cucumbers, etc. Today is April 21 and I think that I am not too late with this article. The main plantings end in our zone of the Middle Volga region, as a rule, by mid-May, however, I will answer readers’ questions, because many plant carrots, radishes, and beets for winter storage until the end of May, or even until June 10-15. in order to have good harvest, you need to know and follow several rules.

One of the most important rules agricultural technology - compliance with crop rotation. If last year you grew carrots, then this year after it it is better to place vegetable beans, onions, and tomatoes in this area. In this case, it is advisable that you add humus in the fall. In the beds where early-ripening carrots grew last year, you can place garlic, potatoes, and cabbage. Early-ripening white cabbage good predecessor for cucumber, garlic, onion and tomato. Late-ripening white cabbage frees up space very late (after frost), not all gardeners have time to dig up the soil after harvesting before winter, so in the spring it is necessary to dig up the area and prepare it for sowing or planting the main crop.

Therefore, this crop should be a late planted or late planted crop. These are peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, pumpkins, zucchini. cucumbers, beans, vegetable corn. After potatoes, you will need to very carefully level the area.

Late-ripening potatoes are usually cultivated. Potatoes are best predecessor for onions and root vegetables. After potatoes, you should not plant tomatoes, eggplants and peppers. Tomatoes are a good predecessor for radishes, lettuce, dill, vegetable corn, and onions.

If there are no viral diseases, then you can place cucumbers, squash, and zucchini after the tomato. Cucumbers are a crop in which the bulk of the roots are located in the upper 20–25 centimeter layer of soil. Therefore, after them I recommend placing crops with a deeply penetrating root system.

These are crops such as beets, carrots (if there is a weed-free area), potatoes, tomatoes (if there are no viral diseases), cabbage. After onions, which were planted on turnips last year, you can place cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, vegetable peas , corn. As a last resort, you can plant table root crops. I hope my answer to the question is what can you plant after?