A folding chair is a great helper for picnics, country holidays or a private home. It is very convenient to have such a chair in your arsenal, because due to a special device it folds up and takes up a minimum of space.

On sale you can find metal, aluminum and wood variations of these chairs. But why buy when you can make it yourself? All you need is the simplest materials, detailed drawings, a step-by-step description and some free time.

The presented models of folding chairs are very popular on the Internet, because they are both very practical and easy to perform. Many have already acquired these beautiful folding chairs, having completed them according to detailed drawings. Descriptions will help you understand the most difficult moments of making folding chairs with your own hands.

Everything in the house with your own hands - folding chair

If you are familiar with the work of a drill, a hacksaw and an electric screwdriver, which are in almost every house where men are “found”. Let's take a look at the presented drawing and start designing a folding chair or stool with our own hands.

In this article, selected two popular options folding chair:

1. A simple model of wooden beams;
2. Plywood model based on the Italian designer Leo Salom.

Choose and make the one you like the most or for which you have materials.

Model No. 1: Folding chair made of wooden beams

You can choose the most diverse types of wood for the chair: birch, pine, beech, oak and any others. Pine stools are the lightest, while other materials will give the product extra strength.

For a wooden folding chair you will need:

Print out the drawing of the chair and get to work.

Assembling a wooden folding chair

First thing place axle bolts, which together with a pair of bars form the leg of the chair. The axis should not be in the middle, but a little closer to the top. If you make an axis in the middle of the bars, then the chair will be unstable due to the extra height. When assembling, remember that the bolt head must be flush.

Now we bolt the upper end of the legs with the crossbars under the seat. We have only 4 beams, 2 of them need to be connected to the outer legs, and the rest 2 to the inner ones. In order not to get confused in this, it is better to carefully study the drawing. But if you make a second chair, you can do it much faster.

We received two parts according to the type of hinges, the next step is the installation of the seat. You need to start with wide bars, while the overhangs will be 15-20 mm each . Wide bars are attached like this:

• One wide beam to the outer rungs;
• One wide beam to the end of the inner rungs.

The photo of the finished chair clearly shows where the connecting points are. Overhead prolegs should be placed at a height of about 10 cm from the bottom of the legs using self-tapping screws.

It remains to fix the inner narrower bars, which are responsible for the convenience of opening and closing our folding stool. The scheme of their fastening is exactly the same as for wide bars: one to the outer crossbars, the other to the inner ones.

At this stage, you need to make a little more effort, since both the height of the product and the operation of the entire mechanism depend on this. The height of the chair can be chosen by you at will from 35 to 45 cm. The second narrow parts of the seat should be placed at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the wide bars. Moreover, the height can be added by inserting another 20 x 20 bar between the middle parts of the seat.

All bars of a folding chair must be processed before installation, giving the details smooth edges. However, for a summer residence, the simplest option can do. By the way, handles can be attached to the chairs for transportation. To do this, the bolts that connect the inner crossbars to the inner legs must be taken a little longer (about 70 mm). The handle with pre-drilled holes is mounted during assembly.

Model #2: designer plywood folding chair

It often happens that after making furniture or other items, large pieces of plywood remain. This is one of the most unique materials from which you can "do" anything, including a designer folding chair from Leo Salom. An Italian designer has designed a beautiful folding chair that you can replicate at home from blueprints.

What is needed to make folding plywood chair:

For one chair you need a piece of plywood measuring 900 x 600 mm, and up to 4 such chairs can be made from one solid sheet of plywood. Moreover, after the first such chair, the rest will go "like clockwork".

Part preparation

There is nothing complicated in this design, just pay attention to the drawing. It is best not to cut in haste, but to execute and test on cardboard, since the drawing is very intricate.

To transfer drawing to plywood, you can choose one of the following methods:

• make templates out of paper and transfer them to plywood;
• put a grid for drawing on the plywood with a pencil and draw a drawing.

After carefully drawing the drawing on plywood, we cut out all the details with a jigsaw. You must be aware that a mistake at this stage will make the whole piece of plywood unusable, except as a work of art in the style of "horrible".

Chair in its design has 4 hinges (2 pairs) that require metal parts. You can adapt butterfly-type hinges for this, but it is better to make hinges embedded in the very thickness of the plywood parts. This method will require some skills, but the result will be much more accurate.

So, M10 threaded studs are useful for hinges, the places for their embedding are marked on part No. 2. In the marked places, you need to drill holes of 8 mm into which the thread for the studs cuts. On one side of the rods, you need to remove the thread, and on the other end, make a recess for a screwdriver. Also in parts No. 1 and No. 3, shallow holes are made for tightening the studs.

We screw the studs into prepared places and carry out the installation of the entire structure. Lay out the finished structure at a convenient angle, and to fix it, you need to drill holes in part No. 3 under the canine-clamp with a size of 30 mm. DIY designer chair is almost ready.

Final processing

Of course, you can not leave chairs made of wood (plywood) in such a raw state, because wood is a porous material that absorbs water. Also, untreated wood products can cause splinters. To give the product a finished look and protect it from the effects of the external environment, it must be treated with sandpaper and drying oil. To give the desired tone can stain under varnish or paint. On the seat and back, you can attach overhead elements made of soft material.

Folding chairs are objects without which it is difficult to imagine an ideal life. Camping, hiking, fishing or hunting, including quiet, sudden "hordes" of guests who suddenly appeared require furniture. However, it should not be bulky, but at the same time must provide comfort and reliability. It is not always easy to purchase such a useful item in a store: for example, you are not satisfied with the price, material or model. To make a folding chair with your own hands, a drawing at hand is the main condition. After choosing the scheme you like and buying everything you need, you can get down to business.

Chair requirements and options

Regardless of the material chosen for the construction of the structure, such furniture should have the following qualities:

1. Sufficient stability so as not to be afraid of any terrain.
2. High strength, otherwise the legs "from fatigue" can buckle at the most crucial moment.
3. Light weight and compact dimensions, because bulky chairs, even folding ones, are difficult to place in the trunk. If the lesson involves long walks, the lightness of the design comes to the fore.

The most common folding seats are stools. They, having no back, are light and easier to manufacture. However, sitting on such a design is not very comfortable. Chairs with a back are already more like typical furniture that cannot be transformed. To ensure a lighter weight, the seats and backs are often made of fabric. A hit material for homemade chairs, folding and regular, is wood, but these camping structures are often made of metal or plastic.

Elementary tripod stool

This furniture, which has 3 legs, can be useful for fishing or hunting. Its advantages are low weight, low cost, speed and ease of assembly. Minus - a high probability of going to "free flight", especially for people with a decent weight. To make a stool, you need the following materials:

• 3 wooden bars about 600 mm long, it is better to take elements of a round section;
• triangular piece of fabric, thick skin is optimal;
• 2 bolts: long and with a loop;
• 6 washers: fixing, decorative (3 pieces of both);
• 2 nuts.

In accordance with the drawing, holes are drilled in the middle and on top of the future legs. They are also made in the cut out fabric in the corners. The two legs are connected with a long bolt. A screw with a loop is put on it to fasten the third support. Finally, fabric is attached to the legs with decorative washers. For convenience, you can sew a strip that will simplify the transportation of the chair.

Plastic fishing stool

Since the tree is extremely afraid of water, some prefer to use another material - an almost weightless plastic, which, moreover, does not care about any moisture. For the construction of a light structure, it is necessary to prepare:

• pieces of plastic pipes - 4 by 350 mm, the same number by 500 mm;
• plastic corners;
• dense fabric;
• fasteners: bolts with nuts.

Long elements are connected in pairs in the middle crosswise with bolts. They are not tightened tightly, otherwise the structure will be difficult to fold. Corners are attached to the ends of the tubes, into which short elements are then inserted.

After receiving the frame, a piece of suitable size is cut out of the material for the seat. It is sewn on a typewriter, the seat is put on the upper elements, having disassembled one of the sides. To fix the legs, a narrow strip of the same fabric is sewn below. Those who wish can provide it with a back, making it in the same way. It is rigidly mounted to the top of the stool - to the frame of the front legs. In the same way, a chair is made of their metal pipes.

Chair-stool with a round seat

Unlike the previous “almost furniture”, this sample is already a full-fledged, but mobile piece of furniture. To build a structure, you need a whole set of tools:

• clamps;
• miter box;
• Sander;
• screwdriver;
• milling cutter;
• jigsaw.

Required materials - basic and improvised:

• furniture board (preferably beech), dimensions 24x400x1120;
• furniture hinges - 4 pieces;
• threaded stud (8x250 mm) with nuts;
• self-tapping screws (3.5x16 mm);
• tinting varnish;
• dowels (8x50 mm);
• glue - PVA for wood or carpentry.

Part preparation

A circle is cut out, its diameter is 350 mm. To make a seat handle in the future, use a feather drill (22 mm). At an equal distance from the edges of the circle, 2 holes are made, 120 mm apart from each other. They are connected with cuts.

Having prepared the rest of the structural elements, a long groove is cut out on the supports using a straight cutter (8.5 mm). If it is absent, holes are drilled, their depth and groove are the same. Then, with a thin chisel, they get rid of the jumpers between them. Another option: drill two holes along the edges, and cut the channel with a jigsaw using a rip saw. The upper ends of the supports are sawn at an angle that is exactly 30 °. If you do not comply with it, the stool will not work. The bottom parts are rounded off.

Assembly, processing

Jumpers (prongs) are fastened with dowels, pre-lubricating them with glue, holes and adjacent parts. The excess is removed, the elements are fixed with clamps until dry. The hinges are attached to the seat with self-tapping screws. For camouflage of the hairpin connecting the legs, a tube is cut out: if there is no lathe, it is made multifaceted with a planer.

The semi-finished stool is sanded with sandpaper, at least two layers of tinted varnish are applied. To give a special texture to the tree, it is recommended to wet it several times before sanding, then dry it completely.

Real folding chair

The drawings of folding chairs with a back have differences, but they are small, since the principle of all designs is similar, and the manufacture of such furniture cannot be called super complicated.

If we consider all the elements, then the chair consists of:

1. Pairs of rear short legs 20x40x475 mm. Often, the schemes provide for the upper crossbar and the proleg - the lower jumper for greater strength, but they are absent in this model in the picture (1).
2. Two front legs (2), the upper part of which plays the role of a back (20x40x837 mm).
3. Two details - crossbeams of a back and the lower proleg (3). All three are 20x70x403.
4. Two side drawers for the seat (5) - 20x40x470 mm.
5. Seat details (6) - 6 elements 20x50x440 or a solid plywood sheet (15x440x470 mm).

In addition to the main details, you will need dowels (15x30 mm), glue, bolts with nuts and washers (diameter 8-10 mm, length - 50 mm), self-tapping screws. You can not do without a tool, you need:

• electric jigsaw or circular saw;
• milling cutter for rounding corners;
• Sander;
• miter box.

"Preparation of blanks"

All the elements are cut out, they are ground, the corners are rounded with a milling cutter. The lower parts of the front legs are cut off, the angle is the same as the previous "recipe" - 30 °, so here the miter box is also necessary. The next step is marking the grooves of the long legs. There are three of them for each part - 2 for the back and one for the proleg. The grooves are cut out with a milling cutter or a drill (drill - 9 mm), then the holes are combined using the same chisel, and polished.

Holes for dowels are made on the bars rounded from below for the tsarg, their depth and diameter are -15 mm. These fasteners, intended for the grooves of the rear legs, are put on glue. In the middle of the tsarg, a through hole is drilled for the screws. They will attach the front legs. Finished parts are polished.

Then prepare 5 identical parts. Two of them will be the back, one will be the leg of the front supporting elements, 2 more additional ones that are not in the figure are the leg of the rear legs and the crossbar, which gives them rigidity. Spikes are formed in these parts, their dimensions are 9x15x50 mm. They are cut out with a milling cutter or a jigsaw, the flaws are corrected with a knife, leveled with sandpaper.

Prepare the back legs. They are rounded from above and markings are made for three grooves: the middle one for dowels in the sides, the upper and lower ones for the jumper and the proleg, respectively. Before cutting grooves, check the symmetry of the markings of both elements.

Assembly sequence

This stage, of course, always starts with a seat. The boards intended for him are distributed evenly over the sides, do not forget about their parallelism and perpendicularity to the side parts. Having made the markup, they are fixed with glue, placed in clamps. After it dries, 2 holes are made at the edges of the boards for fastening to the tsargs, screws are screwed into the pot.

Assemble the back frame. Having installed it in the dowels protruding from the tsargs, they simultaneously glue the proleg and the upper jumper. The structure is tightened in clamps, waiting for the joints to dry. Glue the upper crossbar and the proleg to one front leg. After it is fastened with a screw. Then the second leg is glued to it, which is also connected with a screw to the side of the seat. The glued and screwed chair is again fixed in clamps until completely dry.

Despite the fact that it is not difficult to build a folding chair with your own hands, a drawing is a necessary condition. It is better to find it, and not "invent" it yourself, since the ready-made circuits are tested, reliable and accurate.

How to build a solid folding chair, see this video:

A chair is one of the most essential household items. It is equally necessary both at home in the kitchen and in the country or backyard of the house. And no fishing, hunting or picnic is complete without a folding chair. This simplest piece of furniture can be easily bought at any furniture store, but it will be much more pleasant to make it yourself.

Peculiarities

This chair model is chosen by travelers, summer residents and artists. The practicality and compactness of this model does not require proof. Today, there are folding camping options for almost all the pieces of furniture familiar to us: tables, stools, folding beds, sunbeds and the like. The main advantage of such products is, of course, compactness and mobility.

Overcoming several tens of kilometers a day, it is pleasant for a tourist to land on a folding chair during a halt. When traveling by car, it is important to have a compact chair, and if you already move on your feet, then this becomes a necessity. Large items are not suitable for camping. Products with a back will be especially comfortable.

However, do not think that all folding chairs are a cheap and awkward spectacle that is only good for hiking in the woods, fussing in the garage, or at best, for country gatherings. Today, you can buy or make your own very stylish and comfortable chairs for a modern kitchen interior. It is not a shame to show such products to guests, especially if the object of pride is made by oneself.

Everyone can assemble a homemade chair, most importantly, follow the instructions and drawing.

Special carpentry skills are not needed for this venture. You just need to be able to handle a hacksaw and hold a drill in your hands. A folding chair is assembled according to the drawing, like a designer.

There are three main materials used to make folding chairs: metal, wood and plastic. Plastic is light and cheap material, easy to clean. It is not able to withstand a large body weight and is deformed if it is near heating devices. This material is short-lived, so for permanent use it is better to choose something stronger. For example, chairs on a metal frame.

Folding models made of aluminum are reliable and strong. They are not afraid of rust and can withstand a lot of weight. The best option is wooden products. They are safe, beautiful and reliable. Such a chair will cost more, but it will also serve for a long time. In addition, even a beginner can assemble a folding travel chair from this material.

Backless

The design of the folding chair is vaguely reminiscent of a pop-up easel due to the rising seat. The main parts are bars connected by loops that allow one part to move relative to the other.

When assembled, the frames fit exactly together. The chair is ready for use when the frames are extended and the seat is up. The seat rests on self-tapping screws mounted in the front frame.

To bring the seat to its original state, you need to raise it by closing the frames and at the same time lowering the seat. When folded, this item is easily hidden under a sofa, behind a closet, or simply leans against a wall.

Before proceeding with the assembly, position the bolts on the legs so that the axle falls on the top of it. Otherwise, the chair will come out tall and unstable. The tops of the nuts and bolts are slightly “drowned”.

Tools and materials

Having decided to make a hand-made chair without a back, take care of the availability of certain tools. Everyone has most of them in the garage or on the balcony, and if something was not found, then it can be easily purchased at a hardware store. Below is a list of required tools:

• Electric jigsaw and saws for it;
• Manual milling machine;
• Screwdriver;
• grinding machine;

• Roulette;
• clamps;
• Pencil, eraser;
• Building corner.

To make a chair, you need not only working tools, but also good materials. The store has everything you need, namely:

• Wood bars;
• Shkantiki;
• Furniture shield;
• self-tapping screws;
• Glue;
• Screws, bolts, nuts;
• Metal rod.

Pine boards are suitable for making chairs, because they are very light, but it is better to use ash, as this material is harder. Pine parts are less durable. The optimal board width is 21 mm. Birch is also a very good material.

In principle, you can use any tree species that you have. You can come up with an interesting product from plywood.

Frame and fastening bars

At this stage of work, the upper ends of the legs are connected to the crossbars with bolts, on which there will be a seat later. Two crossbars are mounted to the inner legs, and two to the outer ones.

As a result, we have two parts on hinges. They are first connected using outer seating bars. We make a margin of 1.5-2 cm. The bars are attached to the sides of the crossbar: one to the outside, the other to the inside. Between the legs we make small crossbars, the so-called prolegs.

The next important step is the fastening of the bars. How the chair will fold and unfold will depend on the middle beams. The middle bars are placed in the same way as the wide outer ones. We attach one bar to the inner, and the second to the outer crossbars.

The height of the chair depends on the attachment points of the inner beams. The approximate distance is 1.5-2 cm. The height of the chair is usually 35-45 cm, but this is determined individually.

How to make a folding chair without a back, see below.

Painting

First you need to decide on the material for painting. Acrylic and alkyd paints are suitable for such work. Still, it is better to use acrylic paints, as they are more durable. In addition, they do not have a sharply unpleasant odor. Acrylic perfectly protects wood from damage and the negative effects of moisture. You will also need several brushes of different sizes. Work begins with the preparation of the product: checking the reliability of fasteners, grinding and cleaning.

If you like natural wood patterns, then get a translucent furniture varnish. It does not wear off and perfectly protects the wood. Lacquered surface is easy to clean.

The easiest option would be to buy aerosol paint in a can. Its cost, of course, will be higher, but it is easier and more convenient to work with it.

If the surface has defects, they can be corrected with a special putty. In this case, it is better to paint the product so that the “patches” are not noticeable. It is better not to close up significant chips and cracks with such a composition - they can fall off.

with fabric seat

The advantage of such chairs is that they are extremely easy to manufacture and even more compact. Even a set of these chairs can easily be hidden under the bed, and one can hang on a carnation in the garage. For the manufacture of such a model, a drawing is not needed, and from the materials you will need:

• A piece of leather or dense fabric such as jeans;
• self-tapping screws;
• Cuttings from garden tools or metal pipes;
• Washers and nuts with screws.

Instead of wooden cuttings, polypropylene pipes can be used. From the tools prepare:

• grinding machine;
• Electric jigsaw;
• Knife or scissors;
• File;
• Screwdriver;
• Wrench;
• Screwdriver;
• Drill.

We cut off 3 future legs from the selected material with a length of 60 cm with a cross section of 4 cm. Then we make holes of 0.6 cm on each handle at a distance of 34 cm from the edge. At the ends, we drill a hole for fixing the seat. If you chose wooden legs, soak them with drying oil and paint. So they will last longer.

The seat will have a triangular shape with a length of 28 cm on each side. We cut the fabric with scissors, and if the seat is planned from leather, then we cut it with a knife. For convenience in carrying, you can supply the chair with a belt. The chair can be carried on the shoulder if you attach a belt to it. A loop for its fastening is made on one of the corners of the canvas.

After the legs are dry, proceed to the assembly. We pass a screw 6 mm and 100 mm long through the first leg, after putting a washer on the screw. We impose the second washer, put the screw on the stud with the loop and install the third washer. We put on another leg, put on a washer with a nut. The third leg is put on a stud with a loop, then a washer with a nut is installed. Fasteners are tightened with a wrench and a screwdriver. We remove the excess thread with a grinder, and go through the cuts on the studs with a file.

It's time to attach the seat. Before tightening the screws, we put large washers under the hats. If you insert a self-tapping screw with a loop into one of the legs, you can attach a belt to it. The work is completed by installing caps made of metal or plastic on the legs, which will serve as protection against damage.

"Can you make a box? Yes? Okay, you'll make stools for now." This is from a conversation with a brand new job seeker in a small furniture company. Indeed, making a simple stool with your own hands is no more difficult than a box. That one can be more difficult if it is retractable in the nightstand. Therefore, it is better for those who are interested in carpentry to master it, starting with a stool. You won’t save much money on this, stools are inexpensive. But the acquired skills will allow you to take on large cabinet furniture, which will save you many times over, plus unique items in the interior.

A stool as a starting object in the furniture business has another advantage: it requires little planing and sawing work with the inevitable garbage, you can test your carpentry skills on the balcony or even in the kitchen. After making sure that the matter is going well, we will think about a carpentry workshop with a workbench and other things; Without it, you can no longer make furniture more impressive.

Device and something about terms

The classic wooden kitchen stool is arranged as shown in fig. It can also be seen that its construction is rather complicated for a beginner, but we will come to it through simpler samples, but no worse. In this case, the picture is needed for another.

The reader may think that to call the support beam a tsarga, and screeds / spacers with prolegs are already purely furniture specifics, sort of like a bench for sailors - a can. As for the king, this is not so. Drawers can also be found in other branches of technology, and there they are by no means beams either in appearance or in the nature of the load.

In fact, the drawer is a structural element that distributes multidirectional loads among the components of the power circuit. When distributing the load, it is impossible not to experience it; make them work.

In the manufacture of furniture, the drawer is most often combined with a support beam in the form of a board or beam placed on the edge. This idea is so ingrained that some experienced carpenters consider any such board to be a tsarga. However, the kings and furniture are very diverse.

For example, at pos. 1 fig. (underside of a stool with legs in nests) tsargs are still quite tsargi-bearing beams, only from a bar. But already at pos. 2 tsargi - kerchiefs, and their frame does not hold anything and is only decorative; on pos. 3 kerchiefs can do without it. And on pos. 4 (dressing table) tsarga - jib, which is a beam no more than a scarf.

Table with removable legs, pos. 4, the case is generally interesting. When it is disassembled, the side will be a shaped steel brace, because. only in this case does it keep the underframe boards from breaking out of the tabletop when pushed, or simply from falling apart if the tabletop is also removed. But when the legs are in place, their heads are pressed into the corners and the table is standing, the underframe boards will become both beams and drawers, because. support both vertical and lateral loads. In this case, it is even legitimate to talk about attaching the legs to the sides (!), because. the product acquires proper strength and rigidity only when the mounting nodes of the legs are assembled and loaded.

Tsars from the board can also be vertical posts, and not beams. In this case, they are called combatant tsars, pos. 6. In general, you need to deal with drawers as with beams: first of all, look at how they work in the structure, and how they look is the second or fifth question. It was necessary to be distracted immediately by the kings, because. in furniture they are found all the time.

What do we do?

To make a stool, let's see what we can do. Not all, there is an endless variety of stools, but for starters, typical examples. Our task is to choose what is simpler and better for a specific purpose.

A classic kitchen stool can be both utilitarian and very artistic, pos. 1 and 2 in fig. Its design has developed over the centuries and such stools serve for many decades. The strength of the design allows you to use the stool as a work table, everyone knows this. You can take on a classic stool from the very beginning, having mastered several woodworking techniques, see below.

In lightweight stools, pos. 3-8, the legs are attached either without drawstrings at all, into sockets in a thick, durable seat, or into sockets in scarf drawstrings. In the first case, both the seat and the legs have to be thickened, so such stools are inferior to others in strength, often in appearance, pos. 3.

In order for the lightweight stool to be durable, its legs are tied with screeds: the lower, the stronger and the thinner the screeds can be, pos. 4 and 5. But the low frame of the couplers interferes with the legs of the seated person, and the cut into the thin legs of the stool weakens them. Therefore, instead of a simple frame, they often make an H-shaped one, pos. 6, or put couplers at different levels, pos. 7.

The greatest strength and convenience is provided by the X-shaped system of ties (tie cross), pos. 8. With a certain configuration of the legs, it is possible to do without the lower cross; one such example will be discussed below.

Important subtleties

If you ever undertake to make a lightweight stool, please note, firstly, that its legs should be slightly apart, i.e. the axes passing through the centers of the heads and heels of the legs should deviate from the vertical by 7-12 degrees outward relative to the axis of symmetry of the stool. The second option - the legs should be arched and expand upwards, see below. Without one or the other, the legs can break even with a slight swaying on a stool. Moreover, both solutions are valid if the stool is symmetrical about the vertical axis, i.e. not extended in plan. An exception, up to proportions of 1:1.5, is a stool with screeds at different levels, it can be pulled out in the direction of the lower screeds.

Second, in order to cut the heels and the heads of the legs to the required angle, their blanks must be assembled into a tightly tightened bag and cut in 1 pass. Otherwise, the stool will remain an oblique splay: it is still possible to adjust the vertical legs to the size along the length, but it is simply impossible to achieve the accuracy of the angles necessary for processing the legs one by one on a tree. The corners will already go half a degree-degree against the drawing, but this is not so important, as long as all the legs are the same.

Stools-pedestals, pos. 9 and 10 are heavy and material-intensive, but very durable, because consist, from the point of view of mechanics, of 3 tsargs located in mutually perpendicular planes. The same stools are easy to manufacture, and it is better to start mastering the furniture business from them. In such a case, in Fig. drawings of 2 types. At pos. on the right, the details of the pedestal also cut into half a tree, see below; the mortise slot is not conventionally shown. The seat in both cases can be of any centrally symmetrical shape; put it on dowels, see below. Covers on round pedestal stools make them visually indistinguishable from more labor-intensive poufs when padded as described below.

Note: in the inset at the bottom left of Fig. variant of a stool-cabinet for a summer residence. It needs 4 parts, but it does not get stuck in loose earth either.

Box-shaped, or shield, stools (pos. 11 and 12) require 4 parts, but are lighter and interfere with the legs less. Making them is no more difficult than the previous ones, and all the connections are doweled, which makes the job somewhat easier. Box-shaped stools can be stretched in length up to turning into benches, and their strength and stability depend very little on height. The well-known household stool (pos. 12) is from this breed. In general, shield stools are also a grateful object for a novice carpenter, so we also give drawings of several types for them: room normal height, on the right in the figure, household lower, on the left in the same place, and below - the device is a very small children's stool.

Note: in fig. on the right is a diagram of a reinforced box stool. Pos. c) there is a way to make it look more attractive by veneer sidewalls. This stool is well suited to the country: simple, light, inexpensive, looks good, and in terms of strength and convenience it is not inferior to the classic one.

Stools on pos. 13 and 14 only look like box-shaped ones, but in fact they have 4 wide and flat legs. Therefore, such stools must be made with drawers made of boards or beams, and the legs should be fastened with a proleg. True, in this case it is only one and can be located so that it does not interfere with the legs at all.

The next variety available for self-production by beginners is stools with X-shaped legs. To give them the necessary strength, either 2 drawers and 2 prongs are required, located mutually perpendicular, pos. 15, or 4 tsargi-beams forming the upper frame, and 1 coupler between the crosshairs of the legs. The latter option can be inscribed in the interior of the living room or bedroom, but most of all, the racks are made folding. Suddenly become interested - in fig. folding country stool, drawings and folding method. It is possible to assemble a country set from such a garden folding table. In fact, there are many designs of folding stools for different purposes, from a fishing rack to picnic furniture, and some of them are easy to make with your own hands.

Note: all the described stools are quite plastic and tolerant of the configuration of details, therefore their creative executions in different styles, poses are possible. 17-20.

Materials, tools, technology

What to do?

Wood is suitable for the manufacture of any stool. In terms of strength and durability, a wooden stool is second only to a forged metal one, and in terms of convenience and functionality it has no equal among its counterparts. Any quality wood will go on a stool, except for very soft and easily decaying species: poplar, willow, aspen, alder.

The quality of wood for any furniture is determined, firstly, by the absence of visible defects: cracks, falling knots, chips, wormholes, traces of rot and mold in the form of spots of a color unusual for this breed, see fig. Secondly, wood for furniture should be room-dry, with a moisture content of 8-12%. in the process of drying, a violation of its structure is possible and in the room furniture made of it may eventually crack or crack.

Note: The slanting and graininess of wood on furniture in piece handicraft production is in many cases acceptable, and sometimes desirable, because. allow you to get a beautiful texture. The famous Karelian birch is nothing more than an ordinary warty birch, completely curvy due to unfavorable growing conditions.

The tree is air-dry, with 12-20% humidity (this is an ordinary timber) must be kept in a dry room at a temperature of 15-30 degrees for 1-6 weeks, stacked on non-damp stands. The initial plots (boards, beams) are placed on stands at intervals, and the next belt (layer) of the pile is also placed on stands; now you can use the same plots as them, laying a couple across.

Note: it is impossible to dry the wood under the influence of heating devices or the light of incandescent lamps - we will get very poor chamber wood.

On the seat of the stool they usually take pine or spruce, and on the legs a harder tree: birch, oak, maple, beech. Of course, the entire stool can be made from hardwood. Of the fairly affordable imported breeds, wenge, hemlock, mahogany are suitable.

A full replacement for wild wood will be modified wood - MDF of medium and high density. MDF is not impregnated with anything, it is made from sawing waste of commercial wood pressed at an elevated temperature, i.e. The material is quite environmentally friendly. MDF is inferior to wild wood in terms of abrasion resistance, so it is advisable to stuff hardwood soles on the heels of MDF legs.

From plywood, you can make pedestal and box-shaped stools, as well as clothed stools with an X-shaped coupler of legs (pos. 8 in the figure at the beginning) and similar to them in terms of power circuit. Also, plywood will go on the seat of any stool. From chipboard, as a rule, only box-shaped stools are made entirely. in the designs of all the rest there are points of concentration of loads, which the chipboard does not hold. But chipboard will also go well on the seat.

Note: it is highly desirable to impregnate plywood for furniture with a water-polymer emulsion from both faces and from the end.

About glue

Most furniture joints are glued. Traditionally, bone carpentry glue is used for this. It is inexpensive, does not require drying to a tack before joining parts, and gains strength as soon as it hardens. But for its preparation, you need a glue maker, which, however, you can make yourself.

Very strong glue for wood "liquid nails". It also makes it possible to hide the adhesive seams, because. tinted under a tree with sawdust, or you can buy ready-made tinted. Water-based acrylic wood glue is even better.

Liquid nails and acrylic are quite expensive, so in many cases they are replaced with almost the same durable PVA, but not the usual office paper, but wood. The corresponding marking must be looked at on the label, and wood PVA is sold not in stationery, but in construction and hardware stores. It is necessary to glue parts on PVA only after exposure to tack; glue is applied to both connected parts. Exposure for strength gain - at least a day, only then you can continue to work or load the connection.

Note: all adhesive joints do not hold shear along the seam; they need to be reinforced in this direction in various ways; for some, see below.

What to do?

We will assume that since you are a workman, you have a simple measuring and marking and working tool, including chisels and chisels. It is also desirable to have a caliper with a depth gauge. But, in order to start making stools and furniture in general, you need to stock up on a couple more devices first.

Firstly, a thickness gauge (height gauge) for marking, see fig. It can be done with your own hands, using a pair of screws instead of a lever lock. If you wish, you can also swing at a home-made thicknessing machine, amateurs do.

Secondly, wooden panels for furniture are not assembled just like that, they will come out humpbacked and slitted. Shields need to be rallied, i.e. when assembling do not glue the boards, press the edges tightly against each other until the glue is completely dry and gains strength. See below for how shields rally, but for now you need to make adaptations for this: plaz or wyms. The basis in both cases is strong, even and seasoned boards of at least 150x50 for the plaza and 120x50 for the vime.

A very convenient plaz from a screw clamp and an emphasis with a dead point, pos. 1 in fig. If there are no components for it, then the simplest plaz, pos. 2. The boards in it are compressed with wedges, pos. 2a, alternately knocking out with a mallet, and roughly under the size of the shield they put a spacer from the same board as the base of the plaza.

Large shields, approximately longer than 50 cm, cannot be rallied on the plaza, because at the same time, its base bends itself. In addition, the removal of the edges of the boards beyond the plaza should not exceed 150 mm, i.e. on a plaza of 250 mm boards, you can rally a shield up to the same 50 cm wide. This is enough for a stool, but for the future it is better to get 3-4 wyms, pos. 3. The fastening of the end bosses-stops in all cases must be very strong, on M8-M12 through bolts with nuts, because very large forces act on the stops in work.

How to do?

To make a stool, you need to master, first of all, several types of connections of wooden parts:

• Half-tree tie-in (half-tree).
• Tongue-and-groove connection.
• Spike-groove connection.

half a tree

Half-tree connection, shown in fig. Technologically, it is the simplest and quite reliable, if it is additionally fastened, 2-3 points per connection, with dowels, self-tapping screws, bolts, nails and, optionally, glued. When working with a hand tool, the recesses are first filed along the edges, not reaching 0.5-1 mm to the desired depth, and an excess array of material is selected with a chisel. To make cuts deeper, so that later with one blow to knock down the excess - a manufacturing defect!

Half-tree connections are closed, pos. 1, so the crosses are assembled, open, pos. 2, for assembling corners, and deaf (closed) half, pos. 3, for tapping on the run. In addition, half a tree can be connected both by layer, pos. 1-3, and along the edge, pos. 4. In the latter case, if the parts are high enough, the connection holds well and only on glue without additional reinforcements; this is how the supports of pedestal stools are assembled.

Tongue and groove

For tongue-and-groove joints, pos. 1-3 in the figure, the 1st point of additional fastening or just gluing is enough. The tongue-and-groove connection can be open single, pos. 1, open double, pos. 2, triple, etc., or closed, pos. 3. The latter can be separated only by pulling the part with the comb, and the open tongue-and-groove joints can also be turned by turning the parts relative to each other, i.e. a closed tongue-and-groove comb is technologically more complicated (a hole must be drilled along the edges with a drilling depth limiter and then carefully gouged), but stronger and more reliable.

The tongue-and-groove and tongue-and-groove connections are mechanically similar, so they are often confused. For example, connections on pos. 1 and 2 in the old Soviet textbooks for vocational schools are called tenon-groove. But in fact, the shoulder of the spike, unlike the shoulder of the crest, bypasses the spike from all sides, pos. 4. This makes it possible to hide the semicircular edges of the hole selected by the end mill, and makes the connection resistant to breaking out in 2 planes, along and across.

The spike, as well as the closed tongue-and-groove comb, can be wedged when assembled with a hardwood wedge, also pos. 4. The connection becomes one-piece, but very strong and no visible additional fasteners are required, glue will last forever. The connection on a wedged spike is generally “dead”, it is easier to smash the entire product to smithereens than to separate it.

Note: joints on spikes in furniture, many types are used; For example, a small part of them is shown in Fig. on right. We will get acquainted with the necessary ones along the way when describing the corresponding types of furniture.

Dowels

Dowel connection is the main thing in carpentry, because. it is strong enough and invisible; completely closed. Actually, a dowel is a round or octagonal spike made of hard wood, made separately from the parts to be joined. How the connection is made with dowels is shown in Fig., here you can’t do without a thickness gauge for marking.

Dowels can be wedged during assembly, see fig. on the right, then they are called pins; wedges must be placed across the wood fibers of the parts to be joined. The dowel connection is one-piece, but very strong and reliable. The joints on the dowels are usually glued.

The attentive reader probably already had a question: where to get them, these dowels? Random twigs-slivers will not be reliable. True, dowel sticks are commercially available, but you can also make them yourself. In general, the main dowel connection in furniture has a lot of other subtleties, so we give a selection of videos:

Video: connection on dowels

Video: making round sticks for dowels and arrows

Video: do-it-yourself dowel making tool

Video: homemade jig for drilling holes for dowels

Rallying

Boards in furniture panels are rallied in different ways. On a tongue (a type of tongue-and-groove connection), pos. 1 in the figure, it is easiest to rally if you use tongue-and-groove boards. Due to the large contact area of ​​the surfaces to be joined, adhesive tongues are very reliable and often used. However, only boards of sufficient thickness can be rallied to the sheet pile, because. the crest of the tongue should, on the one hand, be no wider than 1/4-1/3 of the thickness of the board, and on the other hand, it should not be narrower than 10-12 mm. It is believed that the minimum thickness of boards from a wild array for rallying on a sheet pile is 30 mm, but it is not recommended to rally boards less than 40 mm on a sheet pile; the dimensions of the tongue for the magpie board are shown in fig. above. Boards made of MDF and laminate can be stacked on a tongue with a board thickness of 16 mm or more.

Rallying in the rebate, pos. 2, it is safe only if the fold is with a lock. A lockless fold is just a quarter, and a shield made of quarter boards will not be reliable, just like a shield rallied into a rail, i.e. just the ends of edged boards. It is difficult to make a locking fold at home, therefore, like a locking tongue-and-groove, they are rallied with shields made of MDF or laminate, see fig. on right. In this case, the thickness of the boards can be from 12 mm.

Rallying on dowels, pos. 3, possibly solid boards from 20 mm and MDF / laminate from 12 mm, but laborious and difficult. It is best to rally thin boards into a smooth fugue, pos. 4. The grooves for the fugue will have to be selected with a manual wood router with a disk cutter, but the fugue itself can be made from plywood from 3 mm, which makes it possible to rally "wild" boards from 12 mm.

About the seat

Sitting on a hard stool for a long time is uncomfortable, so something softer will fit here. How the soft seat of the stool is arranged is shown in pos. 1 fig. It should be noted right away that it is better to make outer upholstery from burlap, and sew capes for stools from decorative furniture fabric. The stool is used intensively, often casually, and expensive jacquard, etc. it will soon get oily. And the cape can be washed, and sewing it is much easier than a cover for a chair or armchair.

The inner skin is put on glue with a wing inversion from 60 mm, pos. 2. Glue is applied only to the base and the wings are applied, drying it to a tack. Foam rubber is chosen “on a snap”: compressed to the limit with fingers and suddenly released, it should straighten up sharply, and not pull up smoothly.

The outer skin is also placed on glue, with an overlap of the inner wings by at least 30-40 mm. Its edges, so as not to creep, are pulled together with harsh threads up and down, and the threads, so as not to be accidentally torn, are sealed with thick paper, thin cardboard or just tape. Upholstery nails, if necessary, imitate pushpins, pos. 3. The seat is attached to the base when it is completely ready.

The wicker seat pos. 4, but it requires a reliable frame, like a classic stool. Lightweight stools and stools without a tightly attached seat are not strong enough. Modifying cabinets and box stools by replacing the top board with a frame is not worth it for the same reason.

Note: dimensions of ordinary, not for a bar, stools 420-450 mm in height; the seat is from 350x350 to 400x400 mm square and 300-450 mm in diameter is round.

Examples and Samples

The most reliable and functional is, as we see, still a classic stool; no wonder she got into the classics. Therefore, we give her drawings, see fig. Pos. A - general view and device; B - seat mounting method; B - detailing; G - scheme for rallying the seat on the dowels; D - base assembly; E - checking for evenness by measuring pairs.

However, the established canons do not exclude evolution up to revolutionary changes. Revolutions are generally not needed for society because they are ruinous, but in technology they are almost always fruitful. An example is a lightweight kitchen stool based on a classic one, see next. rice. The use of plywood (top trim), laminate for the seat and, most importantly, the removal of the drawer side outside the load-bearing belt, gave rise to a very simple, light, cheap and comfortable design - there are no prolegs. And in terms of strength, it will not yield to the classics, only a wicker seat cannot be made.

And, finally, a variant of the base of a lightweight stool without prolegs. Assembly method see fig. Material - wood or plywood. The seat can be anything. Thanks to the correctly chosen configuration of the legs, the stool is quite reliable, and in appearance, especially with a soft seat, it will go into any living room.

Finally

Making furniture with your own hands is not only economical, but also exciting. And therefore - in a good hour! From a simple stool to such a closet or bed that the grated designer will gasp in admiration.

Compact folding chairs are in demand among summer residents and owners of private houses. They are also available to city dwellers. With them you can go on a picnic, a river and the like.

You can make a small one out of wood yourself. To do this, it is not necessary to have the skills of a carpenter or be a professional furniture maker. It is enough just to have the necessary tools and materials at hand and a great desire to make a piece of furniture.

As for the features in the manufacture of a folding chair, they should include:

Important: a folding chair, assembled with your own hands according to a reliable scheme, will be durable, durable and comfortable.

As for the design features, a folding wooden chair can be made with or without a back. The back and seat of the furniture can be round or rectangular.. Which option to choose - each master decides for himself, starting from personal wishes and skills in carpentry. Keep in mind that in order to give the product rounded shapes, you need to have a router on hand. With frequent use of a piece of furniture, it is better to make its back and seat soft. For this, upholstery fabric and foam rubber or synthetic winterizer are purchased.

Breed selection

As for the choice of wood species for the manufacture of furniture items, preference should be given to strong and durable materials with high technical characteristics. The wood itself should be free of knots, cracks and other visible defects..

The following types of wood will be a good choice:

Advice: before using a tree, it should be prepared - remove chips, clean, treat with antiseptics.

Dimensional drawing

Before you make a wooden chair yourself, you need to prepare a drawing. Since this piece of furniture does not differ in any structural difficulties, the drawing is drawn by hand. If you do not know how to calculate the number of details and draw at all, experts recommend choosing the optimal chair scheme on the Internet. Here, experienced craftsmen will not only provide a ready-made drawing in different projections and with all the dimensions of each individual part, but also give useful advice on its manufacture and assembly.

As for the standard dimensions, for a folding wooden chair they are:

• seat width - 350-500 mm. As a rule, the seat in such structures consists of four slats, 90 and 60 cm in size;
• product height varies from 450 to 500 mm;
• the distance between the legs is 320 mm.

Tools and materials

Before making a folding chair, you will need to prepare the following tools:

We will make a simple design of a rectangular chair without a back. For this, from the materials we need:

• a set of fasteners (self-tapping screws, bolts, screws);
• bars of different sections;
• PVC glue;
• paints and varnishes.

How to make a wooden folding option?

First, according to the existing drawing, individual elements of the piece of furniture are prepared:

After manufacturing the parts, they are cleaned with a grinder so that they do not have burrs and chips..

Since we chose a simpler option for making a chair without a back, the assembly process will look like this:

1. First, axial bolts are installed on the legs of the piece of furniture. The axis must be shifted so that it is 2 cm below the wide bars of the seat. Otherwise, the design of the chair will be unstable.
2. Next, we connect the crossbars of the seat with bolts: first we fasten them to the inner legs, then to the outer ones. We connect the seat slats on the free ends of the tree.
3. We fasten the prolegs with screws to the bottom of the legs at a distance of 10 cm from the floor.
4. Now we fasten one of the bars to the outer crossbar, and the second to the inner one.
5. To be able to adjust the height of the product, between the middle bars you can insert a bar measuring 2 by 2 cm.

Attention: when making a folding chair model, it should be borne in mind that the bars should not come into contact with each other. Otherwise, the chair simply will not fold.

Finishing and decoration

After assembling a compact and practical wooden chair, it needs to be given an aesthetic appearance. You can decorate wooden furniture in different ways:

• cover with stain and varnish in several layers;
• paint with water-based paint;
• upholstered with cloth;
• perform decoupage technique;
• apply art painting;
• decorate with carvings.

A photo

Ideas for decorating the resulting result can be seen in the following photos:

Useful video

A detailed manufacturing process with an explanation of all steps can be viewed in the following video:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it is worth noting that, despite the simplicity of the design of a folding wooden chair with your own hands, you can make completely original and exclusive models by showing patience, imagination and a creative approach. A self-made chair will serve its owners for more than one year, and will delight them with durability, resistance to negative factors and maximum comfort in operation.

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