Smooth start on a cutting saw with your own hands. DIY soft start for a miter saw. Smooth start of power tools

A lot of what electric tool, especially from previous years of production, is not equipped with a soft start device. Such tools are launched with a powerful jerk, which results in increased wear on bearings, gears and all other moving parts. Cracks appear in varnish insulating coatings, which are directly related to premature failure of the tool.

To eliminate this negative phenomenon, there is a not very complicated circuit based on an integrated power regulator, which was developed back in the Soviet Union, but it is still not difficult to buy on the Internet. Price from 40 rubles and above. It is called KR1182PM1. Works well in a variety of control devices. But we will assemble the system soft start.

Soft starter circuit diagram

Now let's look at the diagram itself.


As you can see, there are not very many components and they are not expensive.

Will need

  • Microcircuit – KR1182PM1.
  • R1 – 470 Ohm. R2 – 68 kilo-ohms.
  • C1 and C2 – 1 microfarad - 10 volts.
  • C3 – 47 microfarads – 10 volts.
A breadboard for mounting circuit components “so as not to bother with making a printed circuit board.”
The power of the device depends on the brand of triac that you install.
For example, the average value of the open state current for different triacs:
  • BT139-600 - 16 amperes,
  • BT138-800 - 12 amperes,
  • BTA41-600 - 41 amperes.

Assembling the device

You can install any others that you have and that suit your power, but you need to take into account that the more powerful the triac, the less it will heat up, which means the longer it will work. Depending on the load, you need to use a cooling radiator for the triac.
I installed the BTA41-600, you don’t have to install a radiator for it at all, it is powerful enough and will not heat up during repeated short-term operation, at a load of up to two kilowatts. I simply don’t have a more powerful tool. If you plan to connect a more powerful load, then think about cooling.
Let's assemble the parts for installing the device.


We also need a “closed” socket and a power cable with a plug.


It is good to adjust the breadboard to size using large scissors. It cuts easily, simply and neatly.


We place the components on the breadboard. It’s better to solder a special socket for the microcircuit; it costs a penny, but makes the work much easier. There is no risk that you will overheat the legs of the microcircuit, you do not need to be afraid of static electricity, and if the microcircuit burns out, it can be replaced in a couple of seconds. It is enough to take out the burnt one and insert the whole one.


We solder the parts immediately.


We place new parts on the board, checking the diagram.


We solder it carefully.


For a triac, the sockets need to be slightly drilled.


And so on in order.


We insert and solder the jumper and other parts.


We solder.


We check compliance with the circuit and insert the microcircuit into the socket, not forgetting the key.


We insert the finished circuit into the socket.


We connect the power to the outlet and circuit.


Please watch the video testing this device. The change in device behavior upon startup is clearly shown.
Good luck to you in your affairs and concerns.

saper24 nineteen May 2016

Have a nice day everyone. Does anyone know how to destroy soft start on a saw? Directly speaking Interskol. I'm not very good at electrical engineering. It’s very necessary, you can’t work with this rubbish. Do-it-yourself stand for a hand-held circular saw. What needs to be pulled out there?

SergDemin nineteen May 2016

I wouldn't recommend it. A smooth start not only removes the jerk personally, but also the surge of current at the moment of switching on. I have changed many rotors in power tools based on intra-winding breakage. And at that time they appear due to the surge of current. I'm where it's smooth start, in other words, the regulator is on the trigger. nor )textbook. And just throw it away. wires from the motor directly to the switch. To be more precise, photos of the insides are necessary.

kot_obormot nineteen May 2016

It’s worth throwing out a smooth start on a circular machine, not ushm/pshm.

Victor sixty nine nineteen May 2016

Lohus nineteen May 2016

In the sense that when the disk is inserted into the cut, it is not allowed to unwind? In other words, does it just take a long time to accelerate?

I have a 2kW fin, not a 200mm disc, without a smooth one, I need to hold it tighter when turning it on.

Post edited by Lohus: nineteen May two thousand sixteen 23:13

Handicraft nineteen May 2016

Worth throwing away smooth launch on a circular machine, not ushm/pshm. If you don't indulge in daydreaming, you need a lot of little cuts. Under such circumstances it can be infuriating. DIY table for a circular saw: drawing. I don't have it on my tape.

saper24 nineteen May 2016

Read also

I have a personal Bosch without a soft start, our client is fine. Not before our client remains the workers were without him. They died from falls, cutting off gears to a greater extent. This accounts for the weirdos getting the job. When you press the button, nothing happens for the first second. When I first picked it up, I thought that there was no electricity. And it unwinds so slowly that you get tired of waiting, but have no time to wait. They were putting together two monoliths under the stairs and it was so infuriating that I wanted to slam into the corner. With my hands, what remains to be done for our client is in order, I can delay the shift with a chipper without smoking breaks. Saw blades for circular saws for wood. So saw with 100 ninety laps I’m not a competitor. Where a bunch of small cuts take half a day to unwind, we don’t even talk about stopping to change positions when cutting long materials. What remains for our client to do on the ground, not on his knees, continuous distortions. In its own cut it no longer unwinds. We don’t need precision, they don’t give us workbenches, working in extreme conditions, not palace delights for country craftsmen, spoils our blood beyond childishness. It was a grinder, like me, thank God it was covered, by the way, the winding burned out. I couldn’t make an eighty meter cut in concrete to its full depth)

There is also a spring on the casing, just like on the doors in Russian stores. She slides a sheet of twenty plywood with a casing until it begins to open. As annoying as it may sound, this problem is simply solved with the use of knitting wire.

We conclude that it’s a marvelous instrument, no matter how annoying it may sound, it’s made of oak, it’s not viable, and the bosses don’t really like the price.

Soft start for circular saw— connection

The video was made by someone who often asked questions in the comments.

photo, with numbers, I’ll tell you what’s stopping you from living.

I'll open it tomorrow and won't take a photo unless I figure it out myself. I was just wondering if someone had already encountered this and would still give a hint.

Handicraft twenty May 2016

I was just wondering if someone has already encountered this and might give a hint. on grinders, when the soft start was covered, I threw it out, connected it indirectly, without any circuits, at random, it worked.

Lohus twenty May 2016

I did the same thing, no matter how annoying it may sound, after the jump tutorial I was very glad that I didn’t fix the casing. Now I just open it with my hand if necessary, it’s great that there is a special “ear” on the casing for this.

It is unclear why the manufacturer did this soft start. for the convenience of the user or to make the instrument last a little longer.

Isn’t it this or something similar?

Post edited by Lohus: twenty May two thousand sixteen 09:34

saper24 twenty May 2016

It is not clear why the manufacturer made a soft start. for the convenience of the user or to make the instrument last a little longer.

Probably to justify its current price, which has become equal to more famous brands. It’s called pushing something in anyway. I would never buy one like this myself. I believe that soft start and professional work are not compatible. They don’t pay us that much to wait for this “Baltic” function to start the saw.

I took the saw apart.

I figured out this crap. It turned out to be not difficult. I cut all three wires with a knife.

Read also

I removed two wires altogether, and connected the one from the engine to the button. Fortunately, the contacts on it are threaded, and not, like some, tightly sealed inside. I'm looking for a jigsaw anchor for a circular saw, you can buy an electric gear. I put everything back.

And this is a casing upgrade, cheap and cheerful. Retracting it by hand is not always convenient because one hand is on the saw, the other is on the workpiece, rather than retracting the casing.

You can’t feel the casing on the head at all, but this one is really annoying. To remove it you need to disassemble the saw floor, so be it. By the way, there was an iron fin behind the disk. He was the first to be harassed. Now this is a working tool!

Lohus twenty May 2016

This is what it looks like outside and inside.

And on the wooden forum, people specifically buy such black things and attach them to circulars (the ones on the table).

Isperyanc thirty Jan 2017

It was like this: I was sawing wood for firewood on a workbench, and my son was serving it, i.e. a series of similar movements was made and the circular saw returned to the thigh. Attachment for hand-held circular saw |. At one point the casing was accidentally fixed with a sliver and did not return to its place, I automatically put the tool on my thigh, and the disk behind my pants. Judging by the scale of the flaw, I still cannot understand how the leg survived. After this jump, I got rid of Rebir and warned the new owner about the incident. I think that in addition to the casing, the circular drive must have a disc run-out brake. For safety reasons, I bought a Metabo KSE sixty-eight Plus. In addition to the brake, it also has a clutch, which protects the engine from overload when the disk jams.

p.s. Upgrade changed the cable to a domestic kg 7.5 meters long for convenience.

Post edited by Isperyanc: thirty January two thousand seventeen 07:44

Lohus three Feb 2017

a series of similar movements was made and the circular saw returned to the thigh.

Monotony dulls vigilance, get a little distracted, stumble and expect trouble. It is advisable to immediately organize the work so that if an unusual situation arises, the risk of injury is minimal. That is, to assume the worst outcome in advance. the board will be thrown off, the disk will jam and the saw will jump, you won’t be able to hold the saw at arm’s length, the surfacing will be torn out of the saw, etc., and the main thing is to be prepared for such consequences or to completely exclude the possibility of their occurrence.

disc run-down brake

On stationary brakes it’s even more interesting (maybe they’ve posted it before).

It seems to me that all powerful tools, especially those similar to machine tools, should have a soft start in their base, but it’s not clear why manufacturers save on this essentially cheap function.
Possibly - a decrease in reliability and an increase in calls to service centers - soft start units, judging by the reviews, sometimes burn out, but not so often that they can be easily found on sale - no demand - no supply.
I found the blocks delivered only in one place, as a spare part for a power tool of the HUMMER brand unknown to me, and the store catalog only indicated which tool they were intended for.
Available in the workshop circular saw for metal, the Makita LC 1230 suits everyone, but at the start it kicks and eats so much that the light dims and, thinking that the circuit breaker from a 2.2 kW angle grinder should fit into any of my tools that need alteration, I ordered:
Soft start (46) USM2200B HAMMER

The entire modernization process was filmed:



“Parting words” for those who decide to repeat:

1. Perhaps the 2.2 kW block I used from an angle grinder is redundant for a 1.7 kW motor - select the nominal value, judging by the forums, using a larger power block increases the acceleration time of the engine.
2. It’s not difficult to disassemble the saw, but you don’t need the whole thing, just the part where the electronics are in the handle.
3. During disassembly, there will be 2 long bolts and one short one - the long ones in the holes above the engine, the short one in the hole next to the cable entry.
4. When the housing halves are separated, a plastic part of the safety mechanism and a pin with a hook for the chain may and most likely will fall out.
5. After removing the button, it is better to seal the rest of the mechanism with mounting tape.
6. Immediately extend the red and black wires of the soft starter unit with 30 centimeter pieces of wire of the appropriate cross-section.







I crimped all the ends into ferrules, this is what the result looks like

The block fits well in the bottom of the handle above the engine

The button with the mechanism is larger, for those who still manage to scatter it

Here’s an incident that happened in the process, I laughed, took a bite and remade it, that’s why I don’t like ring crimps:

As a result, the block cost me 411 rubles + delivery, I took three pieces at once; I also need to put the block in a circular saw and an angle grinder, not expensive, simple and extremely pleasant modification, I recommend it.

% D0% 9F% D0% BB% D0% B0% D0% B2% D0% BD% D1% 8B% D0% B9% 20% D0% BF% D1% 83% D1% 81% D0% BA% 20% D1 % 82% D0% BE% D1% 80% D1% 86% D0% BE% D0% B2% D0% BE% D1% 87% D0% BD% D0% B0% D1% 8F% 20% D0% BF% D0 % B8% D0% BB% D0% B0% 20Metabo% 20KGS% 20216% 20M

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