Today, almost all communication technologies have become accessible. So, many people decide to install winter water supply at their dacha with their own hands. This measure allows you to comfortably stay in country house at any time of the year.

It would be more correct to call such a system year-round, because it can be used at any time, and not just in winter. In this article we will analyze the main properties of creating such a structure.

A little theory

First, let's look at a few theoretical aspects that you need to know.

Well or well

Before you start installation winter water supply at the dacha, the type of source should be determined. Of course best option- this is to connect to the central water supply. However, this is not always possible ().

Let's consider the main advantages of the well:

• Doesn't get clogged if not used. This is a very important factor in cases where permanent residence in the countryside is not implied.

• To use it, you do not need to purchase powerful pumps, because it has a shallow depth. By the way, the price of such equipment is quite high.
• Unlike a well, there is no need to drill to great depth.

Interesting: today 1 meter of drilling costs an average of 2.5-3 thousand rubles.

• Possibility to drain water from the system into it.

As for the well, it has only one advantage - much more clean water. However, in this case, quality exceeds quantity a hundredfold. If you want to use water for drinking, then only a well can provide the required purity of the treasured liquid.

Summarizing all of the above, two facts can be stated:

1. Using a well is much easier and cheaper, but the water most likely will not be of the proper quality.
2. It is better to use a well in cases where permanent residence is intended. However, this will require a stable voltage for the pump to operate (at least in winter). However, if you have problems with this aspect, renting a diesel generator for your dacha will easily solve them.

How does the winter version differ from the summer version?

Surely people who are not very knowledgeable in this area will ask this question.

Let us reveal its main differences:

• The pipes are laid in the ground below the freezing level. For central Russia this is about two meters (in the northern regions this figure doubles).
• There is a need to organize heating of the water supply in the country. Otherwise, the water in the pipes will freeze and they will burst. Most often, a heating cable is used for this task (its cost ranges from 140 to 550 rubles per meter).
• The wiring must be consistent.

Note that now quite often people have begun to use boiler heating. This method perfectly heats, for example, small country houses made from block containers. Therefore, if necessary, you can combine the main line with heating.

Main components

Now let’s look at what elements the system we are describing consists of:

• Pump (can be surface or submersible). The required power depends on the type of source and its depth. Typically, such devices come with instructions that indicate the connection options.
• Drain valve is a device responsible for draining water. It is usually installed near the pump, at the bottom of the system. If the source is a well, then the water can drain directly into it.
• Water heating cable. Thanks to it, you can safely use the water supply in your dacha in winter. If you live in a cold region, then it is better to purchase a high-quality sample, otherwise there is a high risk of failure of the entire system.
• Pipes. Today, polypropylene is most often used to create them, which does not freeze, does not rust, does not crack and is more environmentally friendly. Plus, this material is also much cheaper than copper.

Tip: to weld pieces of pipe, you need to get a special “iron”. Only professional equipment will ensure a reliable joint.

• Accumulator - ensures normal pressure in the system, and also allows the pump to operate for some time in the event of a power outage. The installation of this element should be entrusted to a specialist, because if a mistake is made, you may encounter serious troubles.
• Pressure sensor - allows you to monitor the operation of the system.

If you are going to do everything yourself, then the first thing you will need to do is prepare the required equipment.

You will need the following list of tools:

• Special electric soldering iron for polypropylene pipes (“iron”). It will ensure reliable welding.
• Gas key number two. It is needed for assembly using fittings (they are used at bending points).
• A metal saw or grinder with an appropriate blade.
• Cutter or hacksaw.
• Several shovels (scoop and bayonet) and a crowbar. This will be useful for excavation work.

Anti-freezing water supply in a dacha can be achieved using various methods. Therefore, we will give you only general recommendations.

So, the installation process looks something like this:

• The first step is to prepare a trench (the depth is at least 2 meters, and the slope should be positioned towards the well). At the same time, you must achieve maximum evenness of digging.
• Next, sand is poured onto the bottom in a layer of at least 20 cm. After this, a pipe is installed in the trench. In this case, the line must be securely connected to the pump.
• Be sure to seal the place where the pipe comes out of the well with high grade cement (no worse than 500) and liquid glass. This measure will prevent the reservoir from filling up with groundwater. If necessary, attach a heating cable.

• Having checked all the joints (they must be carefully welded and sealed), we fill everything with sand, and on top with soil (obtained from digging a trench). At the end, we compact everything thoroughly.

Tip: mark the location of the highway so as not to stumble upon it during gardening work.

• Now you need to dig a pit about a meter deep, with an area of ​​80x80 cm, near the well. Cover its walls with bricks (or boards, having previously applied a protective composition to them). Next, you need to fill the bottom with crushed stone or fill it with concrete.
• You need to install a pipe coming from the pump and a power cable into the resulting room. By the way, it can be placed directly into a common casing, having previously been dressed in additional insulation.
• Finally, we insulate the pit with polystyrene foam or other moisture-resistant insulator.

This completes the work. Of course, the procedure may be slightly different depending on the equipment used.

Conclusion

Well, now it’s time to complete our story, but if you couldn’t understand all the subtleties, then don’t worry. In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic. Viewing it will allow you to understand all the nuances (

Water pipes located at shallow depths, as well as those passing through unheated parts of the house, need to be heated. Otherwise, there is a risk of the water pipe freezing during severe cold weather and cutting off the water supply to the house. To solve this problem, a special heating cable for water supply is purchased, which is laid in a special way inside the pipes or wrapped around them. Manufacturers produce products of different lengths (from 2 to 20 or more meters), which allows heating only the part of the water supply system rising from the ground or the entire system located in the zone of soil freezing.

How to prepare a heating cable for pipes for connection to the panel can be seen in the video. It also explains in detail how to insulate the second end of the electrical tape to prevent moisture from entering. All the necessary consumables and parts come in a special kit, after unpacking it we begin to prepare the cable for installation.

Self-regulating cable device

A self-regulating heating cable is produced in the form of a strip electric heater, the parallel conductors of which are separated by a heat-releasing semiconductor polymer matrix. An important feature of the matrix, which is the core of the heating cable, is the continuity of heating, which allows:

• cut the cable in any desired place without fear of the occurrence of cold zones;
• increase/decrease the amount of heat generated depending on changes in temperature indicators of the external environment.

Each section of the self-heating cable is able to adapt to external conditions, and this in no way affects the operation of its other parts.

Due to the normalization of heat release for standardized conditions indicated in the name of the cable, the heating system cannot, in practice, overheat in principle. The presence of two layers of insulation allows the product to provide:

• dielectric strength;
• protection against abrasion and shock loads;
• moisture resistance;
• protection from exposure to chemical compounds.

It is important to note that a resistive cable for heating pipes is a quarter cheaper than self-regulating heating products, but they are more reliable and economical to operate. The fact is that a self-regulating cable can increase power when the temperature drops, and when it rises, it can automatically turn off.

Scheme of a five-layer heating cable design: 1 - copper wires large section; 2 - self-regulating conductive material; 3 - modified polyolefin/fluoropolymer insulation (FS-C-2X); 4 - tinned copper braid for additional protection; 5 - external insulation made of modified polyolefin

Selecting the type of cable and calculating its power

Installing a water supply system to protect against interception and freezing allows pipes to be laid above the freezing level of the soil. In some cases, it is impossible to bury a pipeline deep into the ground for objective reasons. Pipes additionally heated by an electric cable require thermal insulation. This helps reduce heat loss and economically use the potential of the heating element. The thickness of the thermal insulation material depends on the diameter of the pipes. Recommended values ​​for this parameter are given in the table:

Minimum thickness of the heat-insulating layer of a pipe depending on its diameter

When selecting a heating cable and calculating power, take into account:

• water pipe diameter;
• the material from which the pipes are made;
• thickness of thermal insulation;
• heat loss of the pipeline, which must be completely blocked.

Features of installing a heating system inside a pipeline

This type of installation is chosen if the water pipes are already in use and freeze in severe frosts. If a self-regulating heating cable is planned to be installed inside a pipe with drinking water, then it is necessary to purchase a product that has food safety approval. The sheath of these cables is made of fluorine-containing polymer, which is tested for food safety. To insert the heating cable into the pipe, a gland is required.

Installation of a self-regulating heating cable inside the pipe occurs through the gland

If it is brought into the pipe from above, then fixing its position is not required. If the heating element is supplied from below, then to prevent it from slipping, reliable fixation is required.

To install a heating cable inside a pipe, you need to accurately measure the length of the section of pipeline that needs heating. It is prohibited to lay the heating cable through shut-off valves. The installation location of the water supply heating system is marked with a warning notice.

All actions when inserting the cable into the pipe cavity must be carried out with special care and attention, since damage to its outer sheath must not be allowed. It is better to cover the threads on the fittings during installation with factory tape, like other sharp objects.

Methods for securing the heating cable

1. Along the water pipe, one cable is laid in a straight line.

2. Unlike the first method, several cables are laid along the pipeline in a straight line, parallel to each other.

3. The electrical cable is laid in a wavy line.

4. The heating cable for water pipes is wrapped around the pipeline in a spiral.

5. Several options for the location of the heating tape on individual pipeline elements (valves, elbows, flanges and other areas).

How to attach a heating cable over a pipe?

When installing the heating cable outside the pipeline, make sure that during operation there is no mechanical damage to the outer shell (chafing, compression, crossing sharp edges, stretching). The electrical cable is tightly attached to the pipe using aluminum adhesive tape. It is strictly prohibited to use plastic tape instead of aluminum tape.

First, secure the cable to the metal pipe using separate pieces of aluminum tape located at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Then the same aluminum tape is placed over the entire length of the cable, which ensures:

• lack of direct contact with the thermal insulation material;
• strength of attachment to the pipe surface;
• large heat dissipation area.

Then, with the same aluminum tape, a coupling is attached to the pipe, connecting the heating section to the supply wire equipped with a plug. The thermostat sensor is placed at an equal distance from the passing cable lines, secured with aluminum adhesive tape.

Important points to note!

• Manufacturers advise installing heating cables on water supply elements at temperatures of minus 15°C and above.
• The minimum bending diameter of an electrical cable is equal to the sum of its six diameters.
• The cable heating system for pipelines must be equipped with an RCD (residual current device), which is selected in accordance with the PUE.
• After completing the installation work, check the resistance of the heating cable and insulation.

In addition to water pipes, this product is used for heating roofs, drains, sewer pipes, etc. It is better to entrust the selection and installation of cables to professionals who know all the nuances of carrying out such work.

Supply of water to rural or country house in winter it does not cause much trouble. If, of course, the source of water supply is located in a warm room of the house or in the basement.

The water supply is made of polyethylene reinforced watering hose with a diameter of 20 mm. The hose is laid along the supporting structures of the house and barn with a slope towards the well.

The water supply system is open. In the house, in the upper part of it, there is a 125-liter plastic barrel. The pressure in the water supply network is maintained by an automatic circulation pump.

The heating wire is laid inside the hose. In the hose 1 m above the pump in the well, a hole with a diameter of 5 mm is drilled, through which, after turning off the pump, water flows by gravity from the hose into the well.

But it is not possible to maintain the slope perfectly, so water remains in places where the hose sag and freezes in cold weather.

To defrost frozen water in the water supply, the heating wire is connected to the power supply for 5-15 minutes, depending on the outside temperature, and after the ice in the hose thaws, the water supply pump is turned on.

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Water supply in an apartment building, private house or country cottage is a common occurrence; water should be available at any time of the year. However, temperature fluctuations can make significant adjustments to the water supply process.

Apartment owners think little about how the water supply is organized, and owners of private houses are forced to take steps on their own to ensure that the water in the pipes does not freeze in winter. At the same time, we note that frost does not spare either steel or plastic pipes. The only way to keep water in liquid form and prevent damage to the water supply system is to fully insulate the water pipes. After all, unlike here, there is no warm medium.

Due to the fact that thermal insulation is carried out on your own site, we are not talking about an industrial scale of work, which means it makes sense to study how to insulate water pipes with your own hands.

Do underground water pipes need to be insulated?

If the pipes are laid below the soil freezing level - no, if above - yes.

The depth of the water pipeline is regulated by SNiP 2.04.02-84.

Let’s make a reservation right away: laying pipes to the correct depth neutralizes the consequences low temperatures, the material in this article is focused on those cases when, for certain reasons, the water supply system was buried at a shallow depth.

Methods for insulating water pipes outdoors (in the ground)

1. increasing pressure in the water supply system;
2. cable for heating a water pipe;
3. thermal insulation for water supply pipes.

1. Creating high pressure in the water supply system

The water pipe will not freeze because the water will move at high speed. To implement this method, a pump is used to increase the pressure in the water supply system or a receiver that cuts into the pipe directly next to the pump.

2. Heating cable for water supply

Cable power 10-15 W (average price – 15 USD/m.p.). Excellent for heating pipes in the ground when they are placed at a shallow depth. According to the rules, it is not advisable to place any communications in the soil below the soil freezing level. There are situations in which this requirement is ignored. In this case, simple insulation of pipes will not give the desired result, because... the pipeline will in fact be located in water (in a humid environment that freezes in winter). Most of the insulation materials are not suitable for this mode of operation and do not provide proper thermal insulation.

Using a cable to heat the water supply makes it possible to lay pipes at a depth of up to 500 mm.

The heating cable for insulating water pipes is wound along the pipe or around it with a given pitch. The pitch is determined by the power of the cable. The lower the power, the smaller the step. Methods for laying the heating cable are shown in the diagram.

Craftsmen and users note that insulating the water supply by heating the pipe with a cable is the most reliable method to protect pipes laid in the soil freezing zone.

Cable heating makes it possible to avoid freezing of water in the pipe, and, equally important, to quickly defrost frozen pipes. Such a need may arise at a dacha if it is intended for seasonal living. In this case, you can quickly prepare the pipeline for operation, because under natural conditions you can wait until May for complete defrosting (when laying pipes at the level of soil freezing). The cable is located both inside and outside the water supply pipe.

Note. Installing temperature sensors along the cable route will make it possible to monitor the cable temperature and regulate it manually or automatically.

3. Application of thermal insulation materials for pipes

This is the most cost-effective and easiest insulation method from the point of view of independent implementation. Let's look at it in more detail. Let's start with the best way to insulate a water supply system, what materials can be better used depending on specific conditions.

Thermal insulation for water supply pipes

It is not difficult to get confused in the wide range of thermal insulation materials. To choose the best option, you need, at a minimum, to know the main types and types, key characteristics and features.

Thermal insulation of water pipes is carried out using various insulation materials, which are grouped below (in the form of a classification) according to the principle of unity of insulation technology.

Materials for insulating water pipes

Types, types, varieties and rules for choosing pipe insulation.

Rigid insulation

Polystyrene foam is an excellent insulator and has a relatively low cost (compared to other materials). However, it is quite difficult to insulate a round pipe with a rigid insulation board. To insulate pipes, special shells (hard boxes) are used - shells in which pipes are placed, and the space is filled with soft insulation.

Roll insulation

This segment includes: polyethylene (as an additional material), foil penofol (50-56 rubles/sq.m.), mineral wool (70-75 rubles/sq.m.) and glass wool (110-125 rubles/sq.m.) ), furniture foam rubber (250-850 rubles/sq.m. depending on thickness).

Insulating water supply pipes with rolled thermal insulation is also fraught with difficulties, which lie in the hygroscopicity of the material. Those. insulation loses its properties when exposed to moisture, which means it has a narrower scope of application, or needs additional protection. Plus, you need to think about how to attach the insulation to the pipe.

Segmental (shell) insulation

Pipe insulation casing is the most progressive option for pipeline thermal insulation. The shell for insulating the water pipe ensures maximum tightness and, as a result, creates a reliable thermal insulation layer.

There are types of segmental insulation:

rigid (thermal insulating casing for pipes - (PPU) or foam plastic. Price from 190 rubles/m.p., depends on the thickness and diameter of the cylinder);

soft (pipe insulation made of foamed polyethylene, cost from 28 rubles/m.p. with a thickness of 13 mm); Material prepared for the website www.site basalt cylinders for pipes (from 15 rubles/m.p. with a thickness of 30 mm. (from 70 rubles/m.p. for foil-coated basalt cylinders).

Sprayed insulation (PPU)

The peculiarity of insulation by spraying polyurethane foam is that thermal insulation is applied to the surface of the pipe, ensuring 100% tightness (the cost of components for polyurethane foam filling starts from 3.5 euros per kg). The number of components is determined by the thickness of the fill; work is paid additionally). On average, the cost of insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam is 15-20 dollars/m.p.

Sprayed insulation also includes heat-insulating paint for pipes. You can apply it yourself, because... Thermal paint is sold in aerosol cans. A layer of paint of 20 mm. replaces 50 mm of basalt wool insulation. In addition, this is the only material that is not susceptible to damage from rodents.

When choosing thermal insulation material for insulating water supply pipes, you need to take into account the following factors:

• pipeline installation location. Insulation of pipes laid on the ground and located underground is carried out in different ways, even when using the same materials (it is also important to take into account whether the pipes are laid up to or below the freezing level);

• frequency of pipeline operation. For example, in a country house that is not intended for permanent residence, it is enough to simply avoid a pipe rupture. To do this, a receiver is installed or the water supply is insulated with a cable. But in a private house it is necessary to ensure a year-round water supply. Here you need to approach the choice of insulation more carefully;

• thermal conductivity indicator of pipes (plastic, metal);

• resistance to moisture, combustion, biological activity, ultraviolet radiation, etc. determines the need to protect the insulation from these factors;

• ease of installation;

• price;

• service life.

How to insulate a water pipe with your own hands

The location of the pipes is another important factor that must be taken into account when choosing insulation. Indeed, depending on where the pipes are located (in the ground, basement, cold attic, unheated room), the temperature and humidity conditions are determined, as well as the ease of installation of the insulation and the need for its additional protection.

Insulation of water pipes on the street

Water pipes are rarely laid by air or on the soil surface. Rather, in this case, the part of the pipeline that runs directly under the house or at the junction of the pipe with the pump, meter, or inside the distribution well needs insulation.

The specificity of insulation in this case is such that the pipe is insulated with any insulation that is capable of ensuring a sufficient tightness of the fit and is not exposed to moisture. As a rule, the thickness of the insulation intended for above-ground insulation of pipes is higher than for underground insulation. At this stage, it is important not only to insulate the pipe, but also to ensure protection of the thermal insulation material, in particular from getting wet.

Note. The most dangerous place from the point of view of freezing is the pipe exiting to the surface. To insulate this unit, it is necessary to use materials with greater thermal insulation capacity or lay it in two or three layers.

Insulation of water pipes in the ground

Such insulation will be needed only if the pipes are laid above the soil freezing level. To insulate a pipeline in the ground, you can use any material, including rigid insulation.

It is worth noting that the insulation of external water supply does not end with the installation of insulation. It is important to protect the insulation from getting wet. To do this, a film, roofing material is wound over the main thermal insulation material, or a plastic box is installed.

How to install a heating cable for heating pipes

For installation, prepare: foil tape, thermal insulation material, heating cable (power 20 W per linear meter).

Technology for insulating water pipes with cable:

• the pipe along its entire length (from the well/well to the house) is glued with foil tape;

• The heating cable is laid in a convenient way with the same pitch. For a 20 W cable, a pitch of 100-150 mm will be optimal. For a less powerful cable, the pitch is reduced. The most convenient way to lay the cable is to wrap the pipe in a spiral;

• the cable is fixed with foil tape;

• Insulation is installed on the pipe. Pipes made of foamed polymers, basalt cylinders or polyurethane foam shells are placed on the pipe. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the diameter of the pipe corresponds to the internal diameter of the segmental insulation. Before starting work, roll insulation is cut into strips, which are wrapped around the pipe and secured with clamps or wire. Their task is to hold the insulation in a given position.

Note. The main thing when installing insulation is to minimize the number of joints that form cold bridges. Laying the heat insulator in two layers with an offset helps to completely eliminate them.

• the insulation is fixed to the pipe with tape (plumbing tape). The tape is wrapped very tightly. The main task of the winding is waterproofing, i.e. prevent groundwater from entering the insulation;

• additionally insulate the pipe at the point where it reaches the soil surface. The following options are offered: additional winding with insulation or arrangement of a box in which the insulation will be placed.

Advice. To avoid the risk of freezing of the water supply at the entrance to the house, it is advisable to wind the heating cable until it exits the wall in the house.

Installation of cable for heating pipes - video

Conclusion

Regardless of the insulation method, it makes sense to choose only high-quality materials and install them according to the instructions. Of course, this affects the budget of the event, but expenses of this kind pay off in the future. And a frosty winter will not bring unpleasant surprises in the form of a lack of water due to freezing in pipes or a rupture in the water supply system.

During the winter season, the pipes at the dacha are blocked, and the owners go home until the next season. Some people prefer the tranquility of a holiday village to the bustle of the city, so they stay on their land. The issue of water supply is particularly acute for such citizens. In winter, heating the pipe is necessary, so several approaches have been developed.

Features of anti-freezing

A well with water is made at some distance from the house, so pipes are connected to the house in the country. But even if the water source is in the basement, then even in this case measures are necessary to prevent the water from freezing. In most cases, water freezes not on the section of the pipe that is located underground, but on the section above it.

An equally “weak” zone is the boundary between the subfloor and the room where the water supply is supplied. There are frequent drafts in this place, so the water inside quickly freezes. Conventionally, passive and active methods of pipeline protection are distinguished.

What are passive methods?

During installation, the water supply at the dacha must be made of pipes made from a special heat-insulating material. Today, these varieties include polyethylene, polypropylene and metal-plastic. Metal pipes It’s better to exclude it altogether.

It is better to choose the diameter of the inlet so that it is as large as possible. Then the wall thickness is greater, which means the thermal insulation is better. In addition, more water accumulates in such a supply; therefore, it will take more time for the temperature inside the pipe to drop below zero.

In winter, water practically does not freeze in insulated pipes with a diameter of 20 mm. (for products made of polypropylene) and 26 mm. (for products made of metal-plastic). For polyethylene, it is better to choose a pipe diameter of 40 mm. In some cases, a larger one is chosen, but it will be more expensive.

Passive heating is carried out through great depth. The water supply is laid in trenches up to 1.5 m. It is important that the pipe is insulated.

What are active measures?

The first thing to do is to provide a special easy-to-detach pipe connection during installation. Such connections should be at the exit from the well and at the area where the water supply is introduced into the house. This will allow you to quickly remove ice plugs by simply disassembling part of the pipeline.

Today, heating is most often carried out using special cable. It is stretched along the pipe, and in winter its power should be enough to restore water supply. To do this, when choosing such a cable, you must take into account climatic conditions region in which it will be installed.

To heat a pipe, there is no need to purchase an expensive two-wire analogue. If temperature differences in winter are small, then a conventional single-core analogue is sufficient. You can buy a cable designed for underfloor heating. It's quite inexpensive.

There is one drawback: such heating should be turned on for no more than 10 minutes, otherwise the element will burn out. If this time is not enough, then the procedure should be repeated a little later (in half an hour). You shouldn't heat the pipe all the time. It does not freeze quickly, and with the cable always on, a lot of electricity is wasted. It is fastened using special clamps. In some cases, homeowners use tape.

If the system uses special pumps, it is recommended to make a small hole in the pipe. Its diameter is no more than 3 mm. It should be located 5 cm from the pump. Then the water constantly flows, so it does not freeze. Of course, if used pumping station, this approach is unacceptable.

In severe frosts, you should periodically turn on the water. At least once every three hours. Then you won’t have to constantly warm up the system with a cable. This will only be needed in the morning, after sleep.

What does a set of passive and active measures provide?

If all passive methods of preventing the formation of ice caps are followed, then they are quite sufficient at temperatures below 25°C. When temperatures drop to lower values ​​without active methods can't get by.